\s> 


GIFT  OF 
:,  George  Beach 


VEGETABLES,  SMALL  FRUITS  AND 

FLOWERS  FOR  PLEASURE 

AND  PROFIT 


JACOB   BIGGLE 
ii 


ILLUSTRATED 


good  garden  saves  doctor  bills]  2rive\;  awi?  the' 
blues,  sweetens  up  -theJiome,  and  'puts 
money  in  thy  purse." 


PHILADELPHIA 
WILMER    ATKINSON    CO. 

1912 


E 


COPYRIGHT,  1908 

COPYRIGHT,  1912 

WILMER  ATKINSON  Co. 


THIRD  EDITION 
THIRTIETH  THOUSAND 


«     **.*c     •.*•• 

*  /•   j    *  *     »    ,  * 
«,••»••"  * 

€         ««*»'«•  • 


PREFACE 

[N  reality  a  preface  is  rather  a 
queer  thing,  because  it's  a  "fore- 
word" which  is  written  last!  So, 
it  seems,  I  am  now  to  have  the 
last  word.  To  begin,  I  feel  espe- 
cially indebted  to  R.  L.  Watts 
for  several  extracts  from  his  ex- 
cellent Pennsylvania  Bulletin  No. 
147 ;  to  W.  N.  Hutt,  author  of  Maryland  Bulletin 
No.  116;  and  to  the  authors  of  various  other  bulle- 
tins, books  and  catalogs  whose  writings  have  given 
me  occasional  lifts  over  rough  places.  My  thanks 
go  also  to  various  friends  and  correspondents, 
and  to  a  few  well-known  implement  manufacturers, 
who  kindly  loaned  me  several  photographs.  Most 
of  the  pictures  in  the  book,  however,  were  especially 
made  for  it  by  expert  photographers  and  engravers 
who  were  carefully  instructed  regarding  the  practical 
details  of  each  picture. 

Now  just  a  few  hints  about  the  final  problem  of 
the  average  gardener — the  selling  end  of  the  busi- 
ness :  Don't  ship  to  every  strange  commission  house 
that  solicits  your  consignment.  Get  a  good  solid 
house  and  stick  to  it.  Or  sell  direct  to  storekeepers; 
or  join  or  form  a  co-operative  shipping  and  selling 
association;  or  work  up  a  list  of  retail  customers  of 
your  own.  As  an  aid  to  the  latter  plan,  the  Long 
Island  Agronomist,  Medford,  L.  L,  N.  Y.,  has  evolved 
a  shipping  package  which  it  calls  a  "home  hamper." 
It  measures  twenty-four  inches  long,  fourteen  inches 
wide,  ten  inches  deep,  and  weighs  about  thirty  pounds 
when  filled.  It  contains  six  baskets  holding  about 

814977 


6  HIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

one-half  peck  each;  these  are  filled  with  vegetables 
in  season,  from  radishes  to  cauliflower.  Assortment 
is  made  to  furnish  soup,  salad  and  substantiate,  with 
occasional  fancies,  such  as  eggplant  and  cantaloupes. 
Home  hampers  are  packed  in  the  morning,  shipped 
by  express  at  7  A.  M.,  and  delivered  at  the  customer's 
door  in  time  for  dinner ;  hence  real  sweet  corn,  crisp 
lettuce,  melting  peas,  beans,  etc.,  all  A  No.  i,  are 
available  for  the  table  of  the  city  dweller.  The 
average  family  uses  two  home  hampers  per  week. 
Price,  $1.50  each,  delivered  at  the  door,  within  the 
delivery  limits  of  the  Long  Island  Express  Company 
and  payable  at  the  end  of  each  month.  Good  idea, 
it  seems  to  me.  Try  it. 

Send  only  fresh,  clean,  attractive  products  to 
market ;  sort,  grade  and  honestly  pack  and  mark  each 
package;  give  full  measure;  use  only  clean,  neat 
packages,  and  put  your  name  and  brand  thereon. 
Keep  the  "culls"  for  stock  feed ;  earn  a  reputation 
for  fancy  products  only. 

My  earnest  wish :  May  your  garden  be  a  great 
success,  whether  planned  for  pleasure  or  profit. 

Elmwood.  JACOB  BIGGLE. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I.  Preparation  of  the  Land 9 

CHAPTER  II.         Hotbeds  and  Coldframes 19 

CHAPTER  III.       Sowing  and  Planting 25 

CHAPTER  IV.       Fertilization.     Cultivation.     Irri- 
gation         43 

CHAPTER  V.          Spraying.      Formulas.      Garden 

Pests  and  Friends 55 

CHAPTER  VI.        Asparagus.      Rhubarb.      Horse- 
radish        65 

CHAPTER  VII.      The    Onion 75 

CHAPTER  VIII.    Peas  and  Potatoes 83 

CHAPTER  IX.        Root  Crops  :    Beet,  Carrot,  Pars- 
nip,   Radish,    Salsify,    Turnip, 

etc 95 

CHAPTER  X.         Lettuce.     Celery 103 

CHAPTER  XL        Cabbage  and  Cauliflower.     Also 
Broccoli,  Brussels  Sprouts, 

Kale,   Kohlrabi 1 1 1 

CHAPTER  XII.      Corn.    Beans.    Sweet  Potatoes..   119 
CHAPTER  XIII.    Cucumber.      Melon.      Pumpkin. 

Squash    127 

CHAPTER  XIV.     Tomato.     Eggplant.     Pepper...   135 

CHAPTER  XV.       Miscellaneous :    Artichoke,   Cel- 

eriac,  Chard,  Corn  Salad,  Cress, 

Endive,  Ginseng,  Herbs,  Leek, 

Mushroom,     Mustard,     Okra, 

Parsley,  Spinach,  etc 141 

CHAPTER  XVI.     The   Flower   Garden 149 

CHAPTER  XVII.  Small  Fruits 167 


CHAPTER  I 


PREPARATION  OK  THE 


It  is  well  to  aim  high  even  when  ge'ifihtf  fread$Jtd  'pldnt1 
things  in  the  ground. — Harriet. 

1HE  man,  woman  or  youngster  who 
really  wants  a  garden,  will  somehow 
manage  to  have  a  good  one  regard- 
less of  soil  conditions,  bad  weather, 
measles  in  the  family,  or  whether  the 
area  of  ground  at  hand  is  a  square 
acre  or  a  square  rod.  But,  of  course, 
if  one  has  a  chance  to  select  the  site 
and  the  soil,  'tis  well  to  know  what 
to  choose. 

LOCATION  OF  THE  GARDEN. — If  it  is  to  be  a  family 
garden,  designed  primarily  to  furnish  an  all-season 
supply  of  fresh  things  for  the  home  table,  the  loca- 
tion should  be  one  handy  to  the  house,  but  not  handy 
to  the  hen-house. 

If  it  is  to  be  a  truck  garden,  primarily  for  profit, 
nearness  to  a  city  or  fair-sized  town  is  an  important 
point  to  consider.  Why?  Because  market,  manure 
and  labor  will  then  be  within  easy  reach,  and  the 
gardener  can  more  easily  keep  posted  on  market  con- 
ditions. Long  hauls  are  expensive ;  long-distance 
connections  are  not  always  satisfactory.  If  he  can 
not  locate  within  easy  driving  distance  of  such  a 
place,  then  the  next  best  thing  is  to  choose  a  spot 
within  easy  reach  of  railway  station  or  steamboat 
wharf,  whereby  quick  transportation  (preferably 


IO  EIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

without  transfers)  may  be  had  direct  to  a  good 
market.  And,  in  either  case,  let  him  beware  of  bad 
or  hilly  roads  ovenwhich  he  must  pass  to  reach  mar- 
ket or  tiansDort.itioi  line.  Hauling  big  loads  up 
hill  or  through  inud  gr  over  ruts  and  stones  is — 
well  It  KBftH*ffpo$  &nsiness. 

SJ.CPE",  !AXD.  WJNB  PROTECTION. — I  agree  with  R.  L. 
Watts,  when  he  says :  For  the  production  of  early 
vegetables,  the  aspect  or  exposure  is  an  important 
factor.  Earlier  truck  can  be  produced  on  land  with 
a  southern  or  southeastern  exposure.  Locations  not 
naturally  protected  by  hills  or  woodland,  may  be 
made  warmer  by  the  planting  of  hedges  for  wind- 
breaks. The  Norway  spruce  is  excellent  for  this 
purpose.  It  is  particularly  important  to  have  the 
coldframe  and  hotbed  plat  well  protected  from  the 
north  and  west  winds. 

As  TO  SOIL. — Any  soil,  he  states,  which  produces 
satisfactory  crops  of  wheat,  corn  and  oats,  will  gen- 
erally give  good  results  when  planted  with  vege- 
tables. Some  vegetables,  however,  require  special 
peculiarities  of  soil  and  do  not  thrive  when  planted 
in  soils  wanting  in  such  properties.  For  example,  it  is 
impossible  to  grow  first-class  carrots,  salsify,  radishes 
and  other  vegetables  with  long  roots,  in  a  soil  con- 
taining much  clay.  These  and  many  other  vegetables 
thrive  best  in  sandy  soils,  while  cabbage,  cauliflower 
and  sweet  corn  prefer  heavier  soils.  Sandy  soils  pro- 
duce the  earliest  and  smoothest  vegetables,  and  such 
soils  are  very  easily  tilled,  yet  they  are  extremely 
leachy  and  require  liberal  applications  of  manure  to 
maintain  productiveness.  Distinctly  gravelly  soils, 
containing  very  little  clay,  should  be  avoided.  Heavy, 
stiff,  tenacious  clays  are  not  desirable  for  any  branch 
of  gardening,  although  quite  susceptible  to  perma- 


PREPARATION    OF    THE   LAND  II 

nent  improvement.  Reclaimed  bogs  and  swamps  are 
excellent,  when  properly  handled,  for  the  production 
of  onions,  celery,  etc. 

W.  W.  Rawson,  in  his  well-known  book  on  mar- 
ket gardening,  says :  "Sandy  loam,  with  a  sandy  or 
gravelly  subsoil,  should  be  selected.  A  clay  subsoil, 
at  least  until  underdrained,  will  render  any  land 
cold,  as  it  retains  the  moisture." 

DRAINAGE. — To  do  this  subject  justice  would  re- 
quire more  space  than  I  have  at  my  disposal.  Suf- 
fice it  to  say  that  most  garden  soils  can  be  greatly 
benefited  by  a  system  of  underground  tile  drains, 
and,  also,  that  some  soils  are  absolutely  unfit  for 
garden  purposes  until  they  are  underdrained.  Tile 
drains  help  to  make  wet  soils  drier,  and  dry  soils 
more  moist.  Write  to  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  ask  for  a  copy 
of  free  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  187,  entitled,  Drainage 
of  Land. 

PLANNING  AND  LAYING-OUT. — Begin  this  prelim- 
inary work  early.  Study  the  characteristics  of  your 
land,  its  wet  and  dry  places,  its  sandy  or  clayey 
spots,  etc.  Measure  it  accurately.  Then  figure  out, 
on  paper,  a  definite  planting  plan,  showing  just 
where  everything  should  go,  the  distance  between 
rows,  and  ideas  about  successional  plantings.  The 
diagram  of  a  garden,  pictured  in  this  chapter,  may 
give  you  some  useful  hints.  It  is  a  plan  drawn  by 
John  W.  Lloyd  for  an  Illinois  Experiment  Station 
bulletin.  No  distances  between  rows  are  given  in 
this  reproduction  of  his  plan,  for  distances  would 
depend  upon  whether  the  garden  is  to  be  worked  by 
hand  or  by  horse  power.  (The  correct  distances  for 
planting  are  given,  either  way,  elsewhere  in  this 
book.) 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


V 


i 


Whatever  plan  you 
decide  on,  endeavor,  if 

«  possible,   to   have   long, 

w  straight     rows,     which 

*  will    permit    much     of 

£  the  work  to  be  done  by 

°  wheel  hoe  or  by  horse 

g  power.     Therefore,  run 

£  the  rows  the  long  way 

5  of  the  garden  or  field; 

o  whether   the   rows   run 

"  north  and  south  or  east 

H  and  west  is  not  so  im- 

g  portant.     Plan  to  have 

<  level     rows,     not     ele- 
"  vated     little     beds     di- 
§  vided    into    squares    by 
H  paths.     Let   the   spaces 
o  between    rows    be    the 
g  paths,   generally   speak- 

<  ing.     Some  folks  seem 
>  to  think  that  a  garden 
S  must    be    a    series    of 
S  beds  raised  higher  than 
\.  the     path     or     ground 
a  level;  this,  in  most 

<  cases,    is    a    great    mis- 

<  take,   for  such  elevated 
£  places     soon     dry     out 
g  and    the    plants    suffer 
£  for    moisture.      If    the 

<  ground   is   naturally   so 
5  damp    that    raising    the 

beds     is     necessary     to 
"get    them    up    out    of 


PREPARATION    OF   THE   LAND  13 

the  wet,"  then  the  practise  may,  perhaps,  have  the 
shadow  of  an  excuse — but  'twould  be  much  better  to 
underdrain  ground  which  is  so  wet. 

THE  MARKET  GARDEN. — The  capital  and  equip- 
ment required  for  a  successful  commercial  venture  in 
trucking,  vary  according  to  localities  and  circum- 
stances, but  the  average  is  much  higher  than  most 
people  suppose.  The  late  Peter  Henderson,  a  very 
successful  gardener,  estimated  that  three  hundred 
dollars  per  acre  was  needed  for  equipment  (tools,  im- 
plements, horses,  wagons,  glass,  frames,  etc.)  and 
for  working  capital  (rent,  labor,  manure,  fertilizer, 
marketing  expenses,  etc.).  This  would  not  include 
the  purchase  of  land  or  buildings,  and  the  estimate 
is  based  on  an  area  of  ten  acres  or  less. 

W.  W.  Rawson,  in  Market  Gardening,  says  :  "The 
amount  of  capital  required  varies  with  the  amount 
of  land  cultivated,  but  not  in  proportion.  While  it 
might  require  about  three  thousand  dollars,  with  the 
labor  of  three  men  and  two  horses,  properly  to  han- 
dle two  acres,  I  estimate  that  there  would  be  needed 
about  five  thousand  dollars,  six  men  and  three 
horses,  for  ten  acres." 

The  foregoing  estimates  are  based  on  the  best, 
most  intensive,  culture,  with  many  hotbeds  and  cold- 
frames,  near  New  York  and  Boston,  where  the  rent 
or  cost  of  land  is  high.  On  cheaper  land  in  some 
other  localities,  or  on  land  farther  away  from  cit- 
ies, the  capital  requirements  should  be  less.  Un- 
der such  conditions,  perhaps  five  hundred  dollars 
capital  would  suffice,  if  a  careful,  experienced  man 
had  five  acres  of  good  land  paid  for.  Or  even  con- 
siderably less  than  this  amount,  if  he  had  a  general 
farm  and  raised  a  few  acres  of  truck  merely  as  a 
side  issue. 


14  HIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

As  TO  PROFITS. — Well,  they  depend  so  much  upon 
circumstances,  seasons,  localities  and  the  man,  that 
general  estimates  are  apt  to  be  misleading.  From 
one  hundred  to  three  hundred  dollars  per  acre,  net, 
is  perhaps  a  fair  average.  H.  S.  Weber,  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, recently  figured  his  year's  profit  on  a  patch 
of  about  seven  acres,  as  follows :  Fertilizer,  seed, 
hired  help,  marketing  expenses,  etc.,  $3945  gross  re- 
ceipts, $1,700;  net  profit,  $1,306,  or  about  $186  per 
acre. 

THE  HOME  GARDEN. — By  this  I  mean  the  "kitchen 
garden,"  which  is  intended  to  furnish  an  ample  sup- 
ply of  fresh  or  canned  goodies  "all  the  year  'round." 

Here  the  condi- 
tions  are  quite  dif- 
ferent from  the 
foregoing.  The 
area  to  be  worked 
is  smaller,  the 
labor  and  expense 
less,  and  the  mar- 

A    ONE-HORSE    PLOW  WILL    DO    IF    SOIL    IS     ,  ,  •      i 

LIGHT    AND   AREA   NOT    TOO    LARGE  KCL 

home  —  sure  and 

reliable.  Here  the  spade  or  digging  fork  (I  prefer 
the  latter)  often  takes  the  place  of  the  plow,  the  rake 
doubtless  performs  the  duty  of  a  harrow,  elbow 
grease  may  be  substituted  for  horse  power,  and 
hand  hoes,  hand  planters  and  seeders,  hand  culti- 
vators, weeders,  diggers,  sprayers,  etc.,  are  often  sub- 
stituted for  horse-drawn  machinery.  Fertilizers  are 
applied  to  square  rods  or  square  feet  instead  of  to 
acres,  and  manure  is  perhaps  hauled  in  wheelbarrows 
and  spread  by  hand  instead  of  in  a  machine  manure- 
spreader.  And  the  results  are  just  as  good — often 
better — than  those  achieved  by  the  commercial  gar- 


PREPARATION    OF   THE    LAND  1 5 

dener.     Many  times,  too,  a  surplus  is  grown,  which 
can  be  sold  for  good  hard  cash. 

Does  it  pay?  I  say,  Yes!  So  does  Harriet. 
Tim  echoes  the  sentiment,  and  Martha  echoes  Tim. 
Here's  what  Chas.  C.  Woodruff,  of  Illinois,  said  in 
Farm  Journal :  "I  have  a  small  town  garden, 
28x30  feet — just  840  square  feet — and  I  take  care 
of  it  without  help,  except  that  I  hire  it  spaded  in 
the  spring.  I  am  a  printer,  and  it  is  necessary  for 
me  to  be  at  the  shop  from  7  A.  M.  to  6  P.  M.,  and 
the  time  I  have  for  gardening  is  before  and  after 
these  hours.  I  have  kept  an  account  of  seeds  bought, 
and  the  amount  the  produce  would  have  sold  for  on 
the  market  at  the  time  of  gathering.  Seeds,  labor, 
etc.,  figure  up  exactly  $3.95,  and  cash  value  of  prod- 
uce exactly  $55.29.  Think  of  it ! — fifty-five  dollars' 
worth  of  produce  from  an  outlay  of  $3.95.  Then  the 
recreation!  I  got  about  $200  worth  of  that,  with 
about  $500  worth  of  satisfaction  thrown  in.  Fifty- 
five  dollars'  worth  of  produce  raised  on  840  square 
feet  of  ground  is  at  the  rate  of  $2,852  worth  of  prod- 
uce per  acre.  On  most  of  my  ground  I  raised  three 
crops.  No  room  for  weeds.  The  work  was  health- 
ful recreation ;  far  better  than  loafing  down  town, 
and  better  pay." 

I  have  seen  the  statement  that  an  area  IOQX  150 
feet     should     furnish 
an    ample    supply    of 
vegetables     (exclusive 
of     winter     potatoes) 
for  an  ordinary  fam- 
ily.     So   it   should 
But   let  me   say  right 
here     that     Smaller        SPRING  HARROWING  SHOULD  FOL- 
LOW  PLOWING   AS    SOON   AS 

p  a.t  c  h  e  s    than    that  POSSIBLE 


l6  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

often  produce  enough  for  average  needs.  Intensive 
culture  will  accomplish  wonders  on  even  a  tiny  plat. 
PLOWING. — The  time  to  plow  depends  upon  cir- 
cumstances. Early  spring  is  the  usual  time,  although 
fall-plowing  has  advantages  when  the  ground  is 
soddy  or  badly  infested  with  wireworms,  cutworms, 
grubs,  etc.  How  deep  to  plow  ?  As  deep  as  you  can 
without  bringing  up  much  of  the  subsoil.  (Subsoil 
plowing  requires  a  separate  plowing  with  a  special 
kind  of  a  plow  designed  to  loosen  up  the  lower  strata 
without  bringing  it  to  the  surface;  few  gardeners, 
however,  go  to  this  extra  trouble  and  expense,  if 
they  have  a  deep,  mellow,  well-drained  soil.  But 
subsoiling  frequently  pays.  It  need  not  be  done 
oftener  than  once  in  two  years.) 

Never  work  soil  when  it  is  very  wet  and  sticky; 

wait  until  it  dries  into  crumbly,  workable  condition. 

TRENCHING  AND  RIDGING. — To  trench  a  strip  of 

ground  means  to  throw  off  the  topsoil,  spade  up  the 

subsoil,  and  then   replace  the  topsoil.     It's   a   great 

deal  of  work,  and  not 
always  so  necessary  as 
some  of  the  old-fash- 
ioned books  taught. 
For  hard,  shallow  soils, 
or  for  deep-rooting 
•:rops  like  carrots,  etc., 
it  certainly  brings  good 
results.  Subsoiling  is  the 

AFTER  HARROWING,   SMOOTH  THE        eorr,fi     iViitirr       r»r  a  r-t  iVnllir 
GROUND.      THIS  IS  ONE  WAY  TO  DO  IT    SamC     thmg>     P^CtlCally, 

but    it  s    done    with    a 
plow,  and  is  therefore  easier  in  large  gardens. 

Ridging  land  usually  means  to  fall-plow  it  into 
ridges  or  beds,  so  that  depressions  ("dead  fur- 
rows") occur,  say,  about  every  ten  feet.  Surface 


PREPARATION    OF    THE    LAND 


A    GOOD    LAND-ROLLER 
COMPACTS    AND    SMOOTHS 


water  then  runs  into  the  furrows,  allowing  the  ridges 
to  dry  off  more  rapidly,  permitting  of  earlier  work- 
ing in  the  spring.  Prop- 
erly drained  or  tiled 
land  seldom  requires 
ridging.  (Ridging  or 
hilling  or  banking  cel- 
ery, etc.,  is  a  different 
operation.) 

FERTILIZING  AND 
MANURING. — See  Chap- 
ter IV. 

.  HARROWING.  —  The 
Acme  harrow  is  a  very 
good  general-purpose 
smoothing  harrow.  The 
spring-tooth  harrow  is  helpful  on  rough,  stony,  un- 
even land.  The  spike-tooth,  or  peg-tooth,  is  a  splen- 
did all-round  harrow  (but  it  should  be  so  made  that 
the  teeth  can  be  given  a  backward  slant  when  it  is 
desired  to  work  recently-planted  potatoes  or  corn). 
Harrowing  should  follow  plowing  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible in  the  spring,  and  be  very  thorough — lengthwise, 
crosswise  and  diagonally,  until  the  ground  is  as  fine 
and  mellow  as  an  ash  heap.  The  disc  harrow  is  an 
excellent  implement  for  spring  work  on  fall-plowed 
ground,  and  for  other  special  purposes. 

PLANK  DRAG,  OR  ROLLER.  —  After  harrowing, 
smooth  or  "float"  the  ground  with  some  kind  of 
a  home-made  drag,  or  roll  it  with  a  field  roller. 
(See  several  illustrations  in  this 
chapter.)  Then  the  soil  should  be 
in  compact,  excellent  condition 


. 

which  see  Chapter  III. 


DIGGING   TOMATO    PLANTS.      THIS    GARDENER    STARTED    SEED    IN   THE 
HOTBED    SOIL  J      FLATS    ARE    OFTEN    MORE   CONVENIENT 


CHAPTER  II 


HOTBEDS  AND  COLDFRAMES 


Seeds,   like   mankind,   are   able   to   sleep   well  and  get   up 
early,  if  they  have  a  good  bed.  —  Tim. 

OTBEDS  should  be  located 
near  an  outbuilding  which 
can  be  warmed  and  used  for 
transplanting  work.  It  is 
also  an  advantage  to  have 
them  near  the  water  supply, 
unless  the  water  is  piped  to 
the  beds.  A  southern  aspect 
is  desirable  and  the  frames  should  run  east  and  west, 
with  the  glass  sloping  to  the  south,  says  R.  L.  Watts. 
The  pit  for  the  hotbed  should  be  dug  in  the  fall 
before  the  ground  is  frozen.  It  is  not  necessary  in 
Pennsylvania  to  excavate  to  a  greater  depth  than 
about  two  feet  four  inches.  The  pit  should  be  six 
feet  wide  and  long  enough  to  accommodate  the  num- 
ber of  sash  to  be  used.  It  should  be  lined  with  heavy 
boards,  preferably  chestnut,  nailed  to  chestnut  or 
locust  stakes.  If  the  ground  is  level,  the  frame 
should  extend  twelve  inches  above  the  surface  of  the 
soil  on  the  upper  side 
and  six  inches  on  the 
lower  side.  This  will 
provide  for  the  proper 
drainage  of  water  from 
the  sash.  In  making  the 
frame,  it  is  best  to  have 
two  or  three  sash  at  SECTIONAL  VIEW  OF  HOTBED 


2O  B1GGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

hand,  so  that  no  mistake  will  be  made  in  the  meas- 
urements. Cross-bars  or  sash  supports,  2x3  inches, 
are  placed  three  feet  apart  where  each  two  sash 
meet.  Locate  the  hotbed  in  a  well-drained  spot. 

Fresh  horse-manure,  containing  a  liberal  amount 
of  straw  or  other  litter,  is  the  best  material  to  fur- 
nish heat  in  the  hotbed.  If  manure  is  saved  from 
the  home  stable,  it  should  be  collected  and  preserved 
under  cover.  It  requires  about  one  two-horse  load  for 
every  two  sash.  When  sufficient  manure  has  been 
saved,  or  procured  from  livery  stables,  tramp  com- 
pactly into  piles  about  five  feet  square  and  three  feet 
high.  In  three  or  four  days,  or  less,  considerable 
heat  will  be  generated  by  fermentation,  and  the 
manure  should  be  tramped  into  another  pile,  throw- 
ing the  outer  portions  into  the  center  of  the  pile. 
When  fermentation  is  well  under  way  in  the  second 
pile,  throw  the  manure  into  the  pit  in  successive  layers, 
tramping  continuously.  Fill  the  pit  to  within  four  or 
five  inches  of  the  top  of  the  frame  on  the  south  side. 
The  manure  will  settle  several  inches  before  time  for 
sowing  the  seed.  Place  sash  on  the  frame  imme- 
diately after  filling,  and  plunge  a  thermometer  in  the 
heating  material  so  that  the  bulb  is  four  inches  below 
the  surface.  The  heat  will  rise  rapidly  until  it 
reaches  a  temperature  of,  at  least,  120°.  A  high 
temperature  may  be  maintained  for  a  week  or  more, 
but  it  will  not  do  to  sow  seed  over  such  hot  material. 
Wait  until  the  temperature  drops  below  90°,  then 
place  two  or  three  inches  of  good  soil  over  the 
manure  if  flats  are  to  be  used  (see  Chapter  III),  or 
about  four  inches  if  the  seed  is  to  be  sown  directly 
in  the  soil. 

COLDFRAMES. — Coldframes  are  usually  con- 
structed in  the  same  manner  as  hotbeds  except  that 


HOTBEDS    AND   COLDFRAMES  21 

they  are  simply  built  on  top  of  the  ground  and  no 
manure  is  used,  heat  being  furnished  by  the  rays  of 
the  sun. 

SASH  FOR  HOTBEDS  AND  COLDFRAMES. — It  is  more 
convenient  to  use  sash  which  are  not  very  large, 
continues  R.  L.  Watts.  We  have  in  use  four  hun- 
dred 3x6  foot  sash,  and  we  believe  a  larger  size 
would  be  of  no  advantage,  but  rather  a  disadvantage. 
Our  preference  for  thickness  is  one  and  three- 
eighths  inches.  The  best  material  is  cypress  or  cedar. 
If  quite  a  number  of  sash  are  to  be  used,  it  is  more 
economical  to  do  the  glazing  at  home.  Paint  the 
sash  before  glazing,  using 
a  liberal  supply  of  oil  in 
the  white  lead.  After  the 
paint  is  dry,  the  glazing 
may  be  begun.  It  is  best 
to  procure  single-strength 
A  glass  rather  than  cheap- 
er grades.  There  should  THE  HOTBED  SHOULD  BE  SHEL- 
be  three  runs  of  IOXI2  TERED  FROM  COLD  WINDS  BY 

.     .  WALL,  FENCE   OR   WINDBREAK 

glass,    each    run    requiring 

six  panes,  or  eighteen  panes  per  sash.  Overlap  the 
panes  about  one-fourth  inch.  Secure  the  glass  at 
each  lap  by  the  smallest-sized  glazing  points.  After 
driving  in  the  points,  apply  putty  or  mastica.  After 
this  hardens,  paint  the  sash  again. 

FIRE  HOTBEDS. — In  some  sections  nearly  all  the 
market  gardeners  use  fire  hotbeds,  says  E.  R.  Jin- 
nette.  It  is  neither  difficult  rior  expensive  to  make 
a  fire  bed.  The  bed  is  warmed  by  two  flues  extend- 
ing from  the  fire-box  or  furnace.  In  clay  soils  the 
flues  are  often  simply  trenches  cut  in  the  soil  six  or 
eight  inches  deep,  the  width  of  a  spade  at  the  bottom 
and  eight  or  ten  inches  at  the  top.  They  are  covered 


HIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


with  flat  stones.  Six-inch  drain  tiles  make  good 
flues.  The  furnace  can  be  made  of  stone  or  brick.  It 
should  be  two  feet  wide,  two  feet  high  and  four  feet 
long.  Old  grate-bars,  or  a  section  of  an  old  boiler, 
make  a  fine  top  for  the  furnace.  Fire  beds  vary  in 
length  from  fifty  to  200  feet,  but  seventy-five  to  100 
feet  will  prove  most  satisfactory.  To  insure  a  good 
draft  the  flues  must  have  a  rise  of  three  or  four 
feet  to  the  100  feet  of  length.  For  this  reason  it  is 
better  to  make  the  bed  on  a  gentle  south  slope.  Start 
the  bed  eight  or  ten  feet  from  the  furnace..  The 
earth  on  the  flues  next  to  the  furnace  should  be  at 
least  three  feet  deep,  tapering  down  to  four  or  five 
inches  at  the  upper  end.  It  is  best  to  have  the  bed 
extend  east  and  west,  and  the  flue  on  the  south  side 
should  be  within  six  inches  of  the  edge  of  the  bed. 
That  on  the  north  side  can  be  a  foot  or  more  from 
the  edge.  At  the  fire-box  the  top  of  the  flues  should 
be  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  furnace,  and  both 
flues  should  open  into  chimneys  at  the  upper  end. 
To  save  fuel  the  furnace  should  have  a  door. 

GREENHOUSES. — The  construction  and  operation 
of  greenhouses  heated  by  the  hot-water  system,  is 
hardly  a  subject  within 
the  scope  of  this  little 
book ;  those  who  are  in- 
terested in  the  matter 
need  a  special  volume — 
such  as  Prof.  Bailey's, 
The  Forcing  Book.  Few 
gardeners  can  afford  to 
build  greenhouses  unless 
they  are  operating  on  a 

VENTILATION    MUST   BE  CARE-        yery     large     SCale,     ill    which 
FULLY  REGULATED,  OR  GLASS  ,.  ...          ^        ,          ., 

REMOVED  ON  WARM  DAYS         case     they     will     hncl     it 


HOTBEDS    AND   COLDFRAMES  23 

cheaper  and  easier  to  furnish  heat  by  fuel  in  the 
furnace  than  by  manure  in  the  hotbed.  The  air  of 
the  hotbed  is  liable  to  become  very  damp,  as  well  as 
too  hot,  and  these  two  conditions  may  cause  serious 
trouble  by  the  "damping  off"  of  plants.  When  the 
weather  is  cold  and  the  winds  severe,  it  is  difficult 
properly  to  ventilate  hotbeds  without  chilling  the 
plants.  All  of  the  points  are  in  favor  of  the  green- 
house. 

GLASS  POINTS 

A  hotbed,  after  the  heat  is  spent,  can  be  used  as  a  cold- 
frame,  if  desired. 

The  outside  of  the  hotbed  frame  should  be  banked  with 
manure.  This  helps  to  keep  in  the  heat. 

A  properly  made  hotbed  is  good  for  six  or  seven  or 
sometimes  eight  weeks;  the  heat  gradually  declines. 

If  the  hotbed  manure  is  loose  and  fluffy  after  being 
trodden,  there  is  too  much  straw  in  it;  if  it  packs  soggy  and 
solid  under  the  foot,  there  is  too  little  straw.  It  should  feel 
springy  when  trodden,  but  should  not  swell  up  quickly  in  a 
loose  mass  when  released  from  pressure. 

The  coldframe  is  used  for:  i.  Growing  some  of  the 
vegetables  and  flowers  late  in  the  fall,  such  as  lettuce,  rad- 
ishes, violets,  etc.  2.  Receiving  plants  which  have  been 
started  earlier  in  hotbeds  and  forcing  houses,  to  harden  them 
for  outdoor  planting.  3.  Wintering  hardy  plants,  such  as 
cabbage  and  lettuce  and  all  plants  which  can  be  sown  in  the 
fall.  4.  Growing  lettuce,  radishes,  celery  plants  for  late 
setting,  or  anything  which  is  planted  or  needed  later  than 
hotbed  stuff. 

"With  thirty-six  sash  for  coldframes,  and  a  small  green- 
house 16x24,  we  raised  18,000  cabbage  plants,  5,000  tomato 
plants,  some  eggplants,  peppers  and  lettuce  plants,  and  20,000 
sweet  potato  sprouts,"  writes  H.  S.  Weber,  of  Pennsylvania. 
"We  found  a  ready  market  for  the  plants;  cabbage  at  $5  per 
thousand,  tomatoes  at  $10  per  thousand  and  sweet  potatoes 
at  $2  per  thousand.  The  eggplant  and  peppers  sold  at  fifteen 
cents  per  dozen.  In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  we  raised 
enough  for  our  own  use." 


DRILLING    SEED. 


ROWS   WOULD    BE    STRAIGHTER    IF   LINE    HAD    BEEN 
USED    FOR    FIRST    ROW 


CHAPTER  III 


SOWING  AND  PLANTING 

Oh,   bend  your   back   and  sow   the  seed, 
For  the  glad  spring   days  are   here, 

And  he  -who  labors  has  little  need 
Of  the  harvest  time  to  fear. 

N  the  production  of  early  tomatoes, 
peppers,  eggplant,  celery,  cabbage,  etc., 
it  is  very  important  to  have  strong, 
thrifty  plants  ready  for  the  field  the 
first  day  it  is  safe  to  transplant.  A 
delay  of  a  few  days  may  be  the  cause 
of  reaching  the  market  too  late  to 
catch  the  highest  prices. 

TESTING  SEEDS. — The  strength  and 
vigor  of  a  plant  is  largely  dependent 
upon  the  character  of  the  seed  used,  says  Pennsyl- 
vania Bulletin  No.  147.  Old  seeds  are  generally 
slower  to  germinate,  and  frequently  produce  weak 
plants.  It  is,  as  a  rule,  safer  to  use  new  seed,  and  it 
is  also  important  to  procure  large,  plump  seeds.  To 
avoid  trouble  and  disappointment,  it  is  desirable  to 
purchase  seed  not  later  than  January  ist,  and  to  test 
carefully  before  making  the  main  sowing.  In  the 
absence  of  hotbeds  at  that  season  of  the  year,  and  if 
no  greenhouse  is  available,  the  test  can  be  made  in 
the  kitchen  window.  Count  two  lots  of  one  hundred 
seeds  of  each  variety  to  be  grown,  sow  in  separate 
rows  in  a  shallow  box,  and  count  the  plants  that  come 
up.  This  is  a  more  certain  and  practical  test  than  by 


26  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

sprouting  the  seeds  between  damp  cloths.  At  least 
seventy  per  cent,  of  the  seeds  should  sprout  vigor- 
ously. 

STARTING  THE  HOTBED  PLANTS. — Preparation 
should  be  made  the  previous  fall  by  storing  away  soil 
to  be  used  in  starting  the  plants.  Good  garden  or 
field  loam,  or  compost,  as  free  as  possible  from  weed 
seeds,  should  be  selected  for  this  work.  Loams  in 
which  there  is  little  or  no  clay  are  the  best,  as  such 
soils  will  not  bake  to  any  considerable  extent. 

If  a  greenhouse  is  available,  it  is  best  to  sow 
in  drills  on  the  bench  soil.  If  a  hotbed  is  to  be 
used,  it  is  more  convenient  to  sow  in  drills  in  shallow 
plant  boxes  (called  "flats").  After  filling  the  boxes, 
press  the  soil  firmly,  especially  in  the  corners  and 
along  the  sides.  With  a  narrow  straight-edge,  such 
as  a  piece  of  plastering  lath,  make  furrows  (drills) 
about  two  inches  apart  and  one-fourth  to  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  deep.  The  seed  may  be  sown  broadcast, 
covering  one-fourth  inch,  but  the  preference  is  to 
sow  in  drills.  The  plants  come  up  better  and  are 
more  convenient  to  lift  at  the  time  of  transplanting. 
After  sowing,  cover  the  seed  or  close  the  furrows, 
firm  the  soil  with  a  wooden  block,  and  water  thor- 
oughly. The  watering  may  be  done  either  before  or 
after  setting  the  flats  in  the  hotbed. 

Beginners  are  often  perplexed  as  to  how  thick  to 
sow  the  seed.  This  matter  can  be  better  regulated  by 
sowing  in  drills  than  when  broadcasting.  A  flat  the 
size  of  an  ordinary  soap-box  is  large  enough  to  grow 
seven  or  eight  hundred  plants,  or  even  more  when 
there  are  no  mishaps.  In  sowing  cabbage,  lettuce, 
pepper,  tomato,  eggplant,  etc.,  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
seeds  per  each  inch  of  furrow  is  about  right.  If  the 
furrows  are  of  uniform  length,  the  seeds  may  be 


SOWING   AND    PLANTING  27 

counted  for  one  furrow,  and  a  small  measure  devised 
(as  a  thimble  partly  filled  with  paraffin)  to  sow  about 
the  same  quantity  of  seed  in  each  furrow.  After 
sowing  the  seed  the  furrows  can  be  filled  rapidly  by 
moving  a  straight-edge  over  the  ridges.  If  the  seed- 
lings seem  to  crowd  too  much  when  they  grow,  thin 
them  out  as  soon  as  possible,  press  the  soil  about  the 
remaining  plants,  and  then  water  enough  to  settle  the 
ground. 

VENTILATION,  MOISTURE,  ETC. — Heat  and  mois- 
ture must  be  carefully  regulated  and  controlled.  A 
high  temperature  and  excessive  moisture,  with  little 
ventilation,  necessarily  produce  weak,  spindling 
plants.  Every  possible  effort  should  be  made  to 
maintain  a  moderate  temperature  (not  above  90° 
nor  below  60°)  in  the  greenhouse  or  hotbed,  and  it 
is  important  not  to  water  more  than  is  absolutely 
necessary.  In  the  management  of  hotbeds,  ventila- 
tion should  be  attended  to  daily;  water  only  when 
the  ground  looks  dry.  Warm  the  water  in  cold 
weather  to  avoid  chilling  plants.  For  time  of  sowing 
see  chapters  on  the  different  vegetables. 

TRANSPLANTING  TO  HOT  OR  COLD  FRAMES. — In 
about  four  weeks  the  seedlings  are  usually  ready  to 
transplant.  By  that  time  the  fourth  or  rough  leaves 
will  be  formed  and  a  good  root  system  developed. 
Whether  the  plants  should  be  transplanted  to  hot  or 
to  cold  frames  depends  upon  the  variety,  the  time 
and  the  season.  Hardy  plants  like  cabbage,  cauli- 
flower, lettuce,  etc.,  may  go  into  coldframes  early, 
but  tender  plants  such  as  tomatoes,  peppers,  egg- 
plant, etc.,  should  not  go  into  coldframes  until  the 
time  and  weather  make  such  a  change  safe;  these 
last  are  sometimes  moved  early  to  hotbeds  and  then 
later  to  coldframes.  Fill  flats  with  a  mixture  of 


28  E1GGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

about  half  well-rotted  manure  and  half  soil,  and  the 
addition  of  some  bone  meal.  A  thin  layer  of  fine 
soil  is  placed  on  top,  making  each  flat  level  full  and 
soil  quite  firm.  The  flat  is  now  ready  to  plant. 

The    transplanting    board,    see    illustration,     is 
placed  over  the  flat,  resting  on  a  box  or  table  of  con- 
venient   height.       (This 
transplanting     board     can 

^?l  =  lll\V\\vV:«ii^      easily   be   made   of   sound 
lumber,     cleated     at     the 
R.  L.  WATTS'  TRANSPLANTING     ends     with     strips.       The 

BOARD    AND    DIBBER, 


enough  to   cover  the   flat, 

as  shown.  Holes  are  bored  at  the  required  dis- 
tances with  a  three-quarter-inch  bit.  For  cabbage, 
tomato,  lettuce  and  most  other  plants  the  holes  should 
be  about  two  inches  apart  for  the  first  transplanting. 
Of  course,  the  holes  can  be  made  with  an  ordinary 
stick  or  dibber,  and  without  the  aid  of  this  board; 
but  the  board  is  certainly  a  help  when  many  plants 
are  grown.)  Place  the  left  hand  on  the  board,  hold- 
ing it  firmly,  and  with  the  right  hand  and  special- 
shaped  dibber  (the  dibber  should  work  freely), 
punch  the  holes  in  the  soil  ready  to  receive  the 
plants.  If  the  soil  contains  just  the  right  amount  of 
moisture  (which  can  be  regulated  by  sprinkling  and 
mixing  before  placing  board  on  top  of  the  flat),  no 
trouble  will  be  encountered  in  making  the  holes  or  in 
transplanting.  One  boy  will  punch  the  holes  as  fast 
as  six  or  eight  can  plant.  Boys  drop  a  plant  in  each 
hole,  and  a  man  can  fasten  roots  very  rapidly.  If 
the  soil  contains  the  proper  amount  of  moisture, 
little  or  no  watering  is  necessary  immediately  after 
transplanting. 

When  these  flats  are  placed  in  the  frames  very 


SOWING   AND   PLANTING  2Q 

little  or  no  ventilation  is  given  until  the  plants  are 
established,  which,  under  favorable  conditions,  re- 
quires only  two  or  three  days.  It  is  best  to  keep  a 
humid  atmosphere  until  new  roots  are  formed,  and 
this  can  not  be  accomplished  if  ventilation  is  too 
free.  If  the  sun  is  very  hot,  which  may  be  the  case 
in  the  spring  when  tomatoes  and  peppers  are  trans- 
planted, the  frames  should  be  shaded  with  straw 
mats,  turning  back  the  edges  of  the  mats  six  to 
twelve  inches  to  admit  light  and  sunshine.  Look  the 
flats  over  daily  and  water  only  the  dry  spots.  After 
the  plants  have  made  a  good  start,  admit  air  and 
keep  soil  moist.  Close  the  sash  toward  evening,  be- 
fore the  air  gets  too  cool ;  and  if  the  weather  is  quite 
cold,  place  mats  on  the  frames  not  later  than  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Remove  mats  early  in  the 
morning,  if  the  weather  permits;  and, .when  there 
is  no  danger  of  freezing,  the  mats  should  not  be  put 
on  the  frame  until  as  late  as  possible  in  the  evening. 

The  plants  of  cabbage,  lettuce  and  cauliflower 
should  be  well  hardened  before  setting  in  the  field. 
After  they  have  reached  the  proper  size,  give  them 
all  the  air  they  will  stand.  When  the  plants  have  had 
a  few  days  of  free  exposure  to  the  air  by  removing 
the  sash,  leave  off  the  mats  for  two  or  three  nights, 
and  then  do  not  cover  with  sash  at  night.  If  the 
process  of  hardening  is  gradual,  the  plants  named 
may  finally  be  frozen  stiff  in  the  frames  without 
damage,  and,  after  freezing  in  the  frame,  they  will 
stand  almost  any  amount  of  hard  freezing  in  the 
field.  Of  course,  tender  plants,  such  as  tomatoes, 
peppers,  eggplant,  etc.,  must  not  be  frozen  in  the 
hardening  process. 

ADVANTAGES  OF  FLATS. — Plants  are  frequently 
raised  by  sowing  seed  in  the  soil  placed  directly  on 


30  HIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

the  manure  in  the  hotbed,  then  transplanting  into 
rich  soil  in  another  hotbed  or  coldframe.  Although 
this  method  is  employed  successfully  by  many  gar- 
deners, experience  has  taught  that  it  is  more  con- 
venient and  satisfactory  (unless  a  greenhouse  is 
available)  to  sow  the  seed  in  flats  or  shallow  plant 
boxes,  transplanting  into  the  same  kind  of  boxes. 
The  weather  is  often  very  severe  at  the  time  the  seed 
should  be  sown  in  the  hotbed,  but  if  flats  are  used, 
the  work  may  be  done  in  a  warm  outbuilding; 
water  them  there  if  more  convenient,  and  then  place 
the  boxes  in  the  hotbed.  When  the  time  for  trans- 
planting arrives,  the  flats  of  plants  may  be  carried  to 
a  warm  room  provided  with  tables  or  benches,  and 
the  work  of  transplanting  to  other  flats  done  with 
ease  and  comfort.  It  is  often  cold,  wet  and  dis- 
agreeable when  early  plants  should  be  transplanted 
into  the  frames,  and  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to 
work  advantageously  in  the  open  air  under  such  un- 
favorable conditions.  When  flats  are  used,  a  large 
number  may  be  planted,  set  back  on  the  floor  or 
shelves,  and,  if  the  weather  is  cold,  the  planted  flats 
can  be  hurried  to  the  frames  where  they  may  be 
quickly  covered  with  the  sash.  Also,  when  the  plants 
are  ready  for  the  garden  or  field,  the  flats  can  be 
watered  thoroughly,  loaded  on  a  wagon  and  hauled 
to  the  field,  where  they  can  be  distributed  at  con- 
venient intervals.  By  standing  flats  on  end  and  jar- 
ring lightly,  the  compost  will  separate  from  the  bot- 
tom and  sides  of  the  flat,  and  the  hand  can  be  slipped 
under  the  layer  and  plants  removed  by  breaking  the 
compost  which  has  become  a  network  of  fine  roots, 
thus  taking  out  each  plant  with  considerable  compost 
attached  to  the  roots.  This  is  a  most  important  mat- 
ter in  transplanting  early  vegetable  plants.  When  all 


SOWING   AND   PLANTING  31 

the  foregoing  advantages  are  considered,  it  seems 
that  no  one  should  attempt  to  grow  early  vegetable 
plants  in  quantity  without  the  use  of  flats.  It  is  an 
advantage  to  have  the  flats  uniform  in  size  and  of 
such  dimensions  that  no  space  is  lost  in  the  hotbeds 
or  coldframes.  Make  them  of,  say,  half-inch  wood 
of  any  kind.  They  should  be  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  and  not  too  large  to  handle  easily  when  filled. 

DIRT-BANDS  FOR  MELONS,  ETC. — Dirt-bands  are 
very  convenient  for  starting  melons,  cucumbers, 
squashes  and  lima  beans  in  hotbeds.  They  are  each 
made  of  a  thin  strip  of  wood  veneering  eighteen 
inches  long  and  three  inches  wide,  grooved  so  as  to 
fold  up  into  a  bottomless  box  four  inches  square  and 
three  inches  deep.  They  are  placed  in  the  hotbed 
without  tacking.  Pressing  them  down  into  the  dirt 
will  hold  them  in  shape  until  they  are  filled  with  soil. 
They  can  be  taken  out  of  the  bed  four  at  a  time  with 
a  spade,  placed  on  the  wagon  or  sled,  and  the  spade 
slipped  from  under  them.  In  the  field  they  can  be 
taken  from  the  wagon  with  a  spade.  If  properly 
wet  down  before  removal  from  the  bed,  and  handled 
carefully  throughout,  very  little  dirt  will  fall  out  of 
the  boxes  in  transplanting,  and,  therefore,  the  roots 
will  not  be  disturbed.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of 
dirt-bands  are  used  by  the  truckers  of  southern  Illi- 
nois, and  most  dealers  in  box  material  carry  them  in 
stock  early  in  the  season.  They  cost  from  $1.00  to 
$1.25  per  thousand.  The  bands  can  be  used,  after 
removal  from  around  the  plants,  to  protect  them 
from  the  hot  sun. 

Three-inch  paper  pots  are  sometimes  used  in- 
stead of  dirt-bands ;  some  gardeners  like  to  trans- 
plant tomatoes,  etc.,  in  them.  They  are  made  of 
stout  paper,  and  may  last  several  seasons.  (Of 


32  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

course,  my  readers  will  understand  that  pots,  dirt- 
bands,  or  similar  ideas,  are  only  necessary  in  the  case 
of  plants  that  are  difficult  to  transplant  in  the  ordi- 
nary way.  Tomato,  cabbage,  etc.,  will  endure  con- 
siderable root  disturbance  and  rough  handling;  but 
melons,  etc.,  will  not.) 

GROWING  PLANTS  UNDER  CLOTH. — In  some  parts 
of  the  South,  truckers  are  able  to  grow  many  early 
vegetables,  etc.,  with  only  the  slight  protection  af- 
forded by  cotton  cloth,  stretched  over  wooden 
frames.  This,  in  a  very  mild  climate,  can  perhaps 
take  the  place  of  glass  for  some  purposes.  In  a 
North  Carolina  state  bulletin,  however,  W.  F.  Massey 
discourages  the  idea  that  cloth  is  cheaper  to  use  than 
glass  in  that  state.  He  says :  "Cloth  is,  in  the  long 
run,  far  more  expensive  than  glass ;  also,  when  the 
difference  between  the  crops  is  considered,  it  is  the 
more  costly  from  the  start,  because  of  the  less  profit 
that  can  be  had  from  it ;  and  in  severe  spells  it  is 
almost  out  of  the  question  to  prevent  serious  damage, 
which  would  not  be  the  case  with  glass-covered 
frames."  (Some  extensive  southern  growers  get 
around  the  latter  danger  by  installing  a  steam  or  hot- 
water  outfit,  and  running  pipes  through  a  long  series 
of  cloth-covered  frames. — J.  B.) 

MATS  TO  PROTECT  FRAMES. — The  cold  nights 
would  be  destructive  to  the  plants  if  given  no  other 
protection  than  the  sash.  Some  gardeners  rely 
mainly  on  wooden  shutters,  but  these  are  not  so  warm 
as  mats,  and  can  not  be  placed  on  the  frames  nor 
be  removed  so  rapidly.  Mats  of  various  materials, 
such  as  burlap  or  rubber  cloth  packed  with  cotton  or 
waste  material,  have  been  placed  on  the  market  by 
dealers,  but  some  gardeners  '  make  mats  from  rye 
straw,  which  are  just  as  serviceable  at  must  less  cost. 


SOWING   AND    PLANTING 


33 


HOME-MADE  ONE-HORSE 
MARKER 


They  can  be  made  on  rainy  days,  or  through  the 
winter  when  the  gardener  is  usually  not  very  busy. 
Each  mat  should  be  6  x  6l/2  feet  in  size,  so  that  it  will 
cover  two  sash  in  width,  and  allow  the  extra  half-foot 
to  lap  over  the  ends  of  the  sash  at  top  and  bottom. 

MARKING  THE  GROUND  OUTDOORS. — Many  grow- 
ers plant  with  a  line  stretched  across  the  patch  and 
moved  into  place  for  the  next  row ;  this  insures  ab- 
solutely straight  rows  (for  which  I  have  a  great 
liking),  but  is  not  well  adapted  to  large  fields.  In 
very  small  gardens  a  long,  straight  board  can  be 
laid  down,  and  the  planting  done 
along  its  edge.  On  large  areas, 
however,  it  is  very  convenient 
and  time-saving  to  mark  out  the 
entire  field  in  advance  of  plant- 
ing. For  this  purpose  there  are 
several  styles  of  home-made 
markers,  one  pulled  by  horse  power,  and  another 
kind  drawn  (backward)  by  hand  (see  illustration  on 
this  page).  By  making  a  few  changes,  these  markers 
are  easily  adjusted  to  any  width  of  row  desired. 

If  deep  markings  are  wanted — that  is,  if  a  man 
wants  furrows  instead  of  mere  guide  marks — a  one- 
horse  plow,  or  a  culti- 
vator rigged  as  a  fur- 
rower,  can  be  used  by  fol- 
lowing the  shallow  marks 
previously  made  by  a 
marker.  Or  a  three  or 
four  row  horse  furrower 
can  be  made  at  home,  sim- 
ilar to  the  one  pictured 

HOME-MADE    MARKER    WITH  ^    ^    ^   ?*&' 

SEVEN  ADJUSTABLE  SLEDS  It    requires    a    steady 


34 


EIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


horse,  a  good  eye  and  practise  to  make  fairly-straight 
marks  or  furrows.  It  is  a  great  help  to  stretch  a 
line  as  a  guide  for  the  first  furrows  across  the  side 
of  a  field;  then,  coming  back,  keep  one  outside 

marker  tooth 
or  sled  in  the  in- 
side mark  made 
during  the  first 
trip;  and  so  on, 
till  the  field  is 
finished.  (The 
furrower  opera- 
tor in  the  pic- 
ture is  practising 
this  very  thing, 

A    HOME-MADE   THREE-ROW   FURROWER  but      he      neglected 

to  stretch  a  line 

for  the  first  or  outside  rows,  and,  therefore,  his 
furrows  are  not  so  exact  as  they  might  be.) 

PLANTING  DISTANCES. — In  the  various  chapters 
on  vegetables,  etc.,  will  be  found  hints  regarding  how 
far  apart  to  plant  the  different  varieties. 

TRANSPLANTING  TO  THE  FIELD. — The  method  of 
doing  this  with  flats  has  already  been  mentioned.  If 
plants  have  been  grown  directly  in  the  soil  in  frames, 
then,  of  course,  they  must  be  dug  (without  disturbing 
the  roots  more  than  is  necessary),  placed  in  boxes 
convenient  for  handling,  hauled  to  the  field,  kept 
moist  and  out  of  the  sun,  and  planted  as  rapidly 
as  possible.  E.  R.  Jinnette  says :  "Instead  of 
using  flats,  my  way  is  to  soak  the  soil  in  the  frames 
with  water.  Then  with  knife  or  spade  cut  the  soil 
into  blocks — a  plant  in  center  of  each — and  take 
blocks  up  with  a  spade  and  move  them  on  wagon  to 
field."  As  soon  as  the  field  is  planted,  start  the  culti- 


SOWING   AND   PLANTING  3o 

vator,  and  make  a  nice  "dust  mulch"  to  conserve 
moisture.  The  best  times  to  do  transplanting  are 
before  a  rain,  or  toward  evening. 

It  is  often  a  help  to  shade  the  newly-set  plants 
for  a  few  days,  but  this  is  hardly  practicable  in  a 
large  field ;  the  small  grower,  however,  can  utilize 
shingles,  newspapers,  berry  boxes,  etc.,  etc.,  for  this 
worthy  purpose.  Here's  a  simple  little  device  that 
may  be  of  help  to  some  of  my  gar- 
den friends :  Take  some  stout  paper 
(tar  paper  is  good),  cut  it  in  the 
form  illustrated,  fold  it  together  and 
tack  on  the  seam  to  a  light  stick ; 
then  adjust  the  "hood"  over  a  newly- 
set  plant.  A  hundred  hoods  can  be  made  quickly 
and  cheaply. 

DIBBERS,  ETC.,  FOR  TRANSPLANTING. — The  trans- 
planting tool  used  by  many  gardeners  is  a  short, 
pointed  stick,  called  a  "dibber"  or  "dibble,"  and  hav- 
ing a  handle  of  any  convenient  shape.  L.  H.  Bailey, 
in  his  book,  Principles  of  Vegetable  Gardening,  says : 
"In  the  working  hand  hold  the  dibber ;  in  the  other 
hand  hold  the  plant;  the  plant  is  lowered  into  a  hole 
made  by  the  dibber  (which  makes  a  hole  but  does 
not  remove  the  earth).  (The  earth  is  best  closed 
about  the  plant  by  inserting  the  dibber  alongside  of 
it,  an  inch  or  so  distant,  and  then  giving  the  handle 
a  quick  push  toward  the  plant — thus  pushing  soil 
into  the  first  hole  while  the  plant  is  held  in  place  with 
the  other  hand.)  It  is  customary  to  have  a  boy 
carry  the  plants  in  a  covered  basket  or  box,  and  to 
drop  them  just  ahead  of  the  planters.  One  boy  ordi- 
narily will  drop  for  two  rows  of  planters ;  he  should 
not  drop  faster  than  the  plants  are  required.  Set 
the  plants  deep.  Gardeners  usually  prefer  to  set 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


THREE  KINDS    OF 
DIBBERS 


them  to  the  seed-leaf,  even  though  they  were  an  inch 
or  two  higher  than  this  in  the  original  seedbed.  This 
deep  planting  holds  the  plants  in 
position  and  places  the  roots  in 
the  moist  and  cool  earth.  Press 
the  earth  firmly  about  the  roots 
and  crown;  this  is  very  impor- 
tant. If  the  ground  and  season 
are  very  dry,  have  the  boy  fol- 
low with  a  pail  and  put  a  dipper- 
ful  of  water  about  each  plant. 
After  the  water  soaks  away,  the 
dry  loose  earth  should  be  drawn 
about  the  plant  to  afford  a  surface  mulch.  In  larger 
operations  a  tank  on  wheels  is  drawn  through  the 
fields  *  *  *  Transplanting  machines  drawn  by  horses 
are  now  becoming  popular  for  large-area  practise, 
and  these  are  supplied  with  a  watering  device  *  *  * 
A  quick  man  can  transplant  from  5,000  to  6,000  plants 
in  a  day,  if  the  soil  is  light  and  in  good  condition. 
Ten  acres  of  cabbage  plants  sometimes  may  be  set 
in  a  day  by  means  of  a  horse  machine." 

Other  tools  besides  dibbers  and  horse  machines 
are  often  used  in  transplanting.  For  instance,  straw- 
berry plants  are  frequently  set  with  a  spade ;  and 
many  gardeners  mark  out  deep  furrows  for  tomatoes, 
etc.,  put  manure  and  fertilizer  where  plants  are  to 
go,  mix  it  with  the  soil,  and  then  set  the  plants  with 
the  aid  of  a  spade,  trowel  or  hoe,  and  a  boy  or  man 
to  carry  the  plants  and  hold  them  in  place.  (A  pic- 
ture in  Chapter  XIV  shows  how  this  method  of 
fertilizing  tomatoes  is  done.) 

After  the  plants  are  set,  always  start  the  hoe  or 
cultivator  and  level  the  ground  nicely. 

OUTDOOR  SOWING  OF  SEEDS. — Now  we  have  gotten 


SOWING   AND    PLANTING  37 

away  from  plant-setting,  and  will  consider  the  sow- 
ing of  seeds  in  drills  or  hills  in  the  open  ground. 
What  has  already  been  said  about  marking  and  fur- 
rowing, applies  here,  too — if  you  wish  to  drop  seed 
by  hand.  The  furrower  will  do  for  potatoes,  peas, 
etc.,  and  the  marker  for  other  crops.  (Cover  the 
furrows,  after  sowing,  with  a  hoe  or  a  one-horse 
plow;  or  rig  your  cultivator  with  side  shovels — tak- 
ing off  the  back  and  front  teeth — so  that  it  will 
throw  the  dirt  into  the  furrow  from  both  sides.) 
Fine  seeds  may  be  sown  in  hills,  shallow  drills 
or  marks,  and  covered  with  a  hand  hoe  or  a  wheel 
hoe. 

The  easiest  and  nicest  way  to  sow  small  seeds, 
however,  is  to  use  a  machine  planter,  seeder  or  drill. 
There  are  very  excellent  and  inexpensive  hand  drills 
or  seeders  made,  that  will  sow  almost  any  kind  of 
seed  in  continuous  drills,  or  drop  seed  at  regular 
intervals  of  one,  two,  or  several,  inches  apart — ac- 
cording to  the  way  you  set  the  machinery.  These 
machines  open  and  cover  the  furrow,  can  be  regu- 
lated to  sow  seed  plentifully  or  sparingly,  and  the 
hill-dropping  feature  saves  seed  and  considerable 
after-thinning  in  the  rows.  There  is  a  hand-power 
onion-seeder  now  on  the  market  that  sows  the  seeds 
at  the  right  distance  apart,  two  rozvs  at  a  time — 
thus  saving  much  thinning  and  half  the  walking  and 
time.  There  are  hand  corn-planters,  hand  potato- 
planters,  machine  corn  or  potato-planters  pulled  by 
horses,  and,  in  fact,  handy  planters  and  sowers  for 
every  purpose.  Most  of  these  drills  and  machines 
have  a  marker  which  marks  the  next  row ;  thus,  if 
you  get  the  first  row  straight  with  a  line,  the  others 
will  correspond  (see  full-page  illustration  facing  be- 
ginning of  this  chapter).  Always  test  the  drill  on  a 


38  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

board  or  barn  floor,  and  regulate  it  to  drop  correctly 
before  using  it  in  the  field. 

VARIETIES  TO  PLANT. — Every  locality  has  its 
favorite  varieties.  In  a  general  book,  such  as  mine, 
it  is  not  feasible  to  give  long  lists  of  varieties ;  the 
best  I  can  do  is  to  mention,  in  the  different  chapters 
about  vegetables,  etc.,  a  few  standard  varieties  that 
do  well  almost  anywhere.  Write  to  your  state  ex- 
periment station  and  ask  for  a  list  of  varieties  best 
suited  to  local  climate  and  soil.  As  for  new  kinds — 
"novelties" — go  slow.  Try  a  few  in  a  small  way 
each  season,  but  don't  discard  the  time-tested  varie- 
ties until  a  novelty  is  proved  to  be  better. 

TIME  TO  Sow. — This  varies,  of  course,  in  the  dif- 
ferent sections  of  the  country.  Consult  the  chapters 
about  vegetables,  etc.,  where  approximate  dates  suited 
to  the  latitude  of  Pennsylvania  are  given.  Allow 
about  five  days'  difference  for  each  100  miles  north 
or  south  of  this  latitude. 

ROTATION  OF  CROPS. — Supposing  that  you  were 
a  radish  or  a  melon  and  had  to  grow  up  every  sum- 
mer in  the  same  spot  in  the  same  little  field,  eat  the 
same  food,  and  fight  the  same  old  bugs  and  fungous 
diseases  year  after  year — well,  wouldn't  you  get  tired 
and  stunted  and  hungry  for  a  change  of  air,  scene 
and  food?  Of  course!  Then  don't  forget  to  change 
the  location  of  the  different  crops  each  season.  Fol- 
low corn  with  potatoes,  or  beets,  or  something  else, 
but  don't  follow  corn  with  corn,  or  potatoes  with 
potatoes.  Systematic  rotation  of  crops  is  a  great 
help  in  the  fight  against  insects  and  fungi. 

"Puddling"  means  to  dip  the  roots  of  dug  plants 
in  thin  mud,  preliminary  to  transplanting  into  the 
open  field.  In  very  dry  weather  this  process  helps  to 
keep  the  roots  from  drying. 


SOWING  AND   PLANTING  39 

E.  R.  Jinnette,  of  Illinois,  and  many  other  mar- 
ket gardeners,  say  that  it  is  quite  important  to  cut 
or  "shear  off"  the  top  one-third  or  one-half  of  the 
leaves  of  celery,  cabbage,  etc.,  before  transplanting 
to  the  open  field. 

SPROUTS 

Nothing  but  experience  can  teach  the  air  requirements 
of  plants  in  hotbeds  or  coldframes.  Watch  the  thermometer, 
the  sun,  and  the  wind's  direction,  and  raise  or  lower  or  take 
off  the  sash  accordingly. 

"I  do  not  use  a  hotbed,"  says  H.  E.  Haydock,  a  suc- 
cessful New  York  State  gardener.  "I  find  that  a  number  of 
shallow  boxes  in  a  sunny  room  answer  every  purpose  in 
starting  the  tomatoes,  cucumbers,  melons,  etc.,  that  I  intend 
to  raise." 

A  wide,  iron  garden  rake  and  three  or 
four  pieces  of  corn-cob  make  an  easily-con- 
structed garden  marker.  Wide  or  narrow 
spaces  may  be  marked  at  will,  by  changing 
the  cobs.  (See  cut.) 

Soaking  ^seeds  of   slow  germination,   as   the  beet,   parsnip,  . 
carrot,    etc.,   is   practised   sometimes   with   good   results.      With 
the    proper    seedbed,    however,    soaking    is    seldom    necessary,  ^ 
especially    if   the    ground    is   thoroughly    "firmed"    after   plant-  ,  - 
ing.      This  may  be  done  with  the  feet,   the  back  of  a  hoe,   or 
by  rolling,  and  is  a  very  important  operation. 

There  is  a  new  kind  of  a  sash  on  the  market,  with  double 
glass — making  an  air-space  between  top  and  bottom  panes. 
Plants  under  such  sash  would  not  easily  freeze  during  moder- 
ate cold-snaps,  even  if  no  mats  were  used.  An  air-space, 
however  small,  is  an  excellent  non-conductor  of  either  cold 
or  heat;  but  of  course  double  glass  is  not  so  cheap  as  single. 

Many  gardeners  on  a  small  scale  do  not  care  to  bother 
with  growing  plants  in  hotbeds  and  coldframes,  and  so  buy  . 
such  plants  ready-grown.  This  is  often  the  cheapest  way 
vvhen  only  a  few  dozen  tomato,  cabbage,  celery,  pepper  and 
similar  plants  are  needed  for  setting  outdoors.  Varieties  of 
vegetables  that  are  not  usually  transplanted  (such  as  carrots, 
corn,  potatoes,  etc.)  of  course  need  no  preliminary  hotbed  or 
coldframe  growth. 


4O  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

Don't  blame  the  seedsman  if  you  sow  tender  things,  like 
peppers,  tomatoes,  etc.,  too  early  in  hotbeds  with  insufficient 
heat,  and  then  find  that  most  of  the  seeds  rot.  Nor  do  not 
blame  him  if  seeds  sown  outdoors  rot  because  the  soil 
is  too  cold  or  wet;  nor  because  insufficient  moisture  in  the 
ground  fails  to  cause  germination.  Buy  the  best  seed  and 
place  your  order  early. 

Hardiness  of  Vegetables:  Beans,  melons,  cucumbers, 
corn,  tomatoes,  squash,  pumpkins,  sweet  potatoes,  eggplant, 
peppers  and  okra  are  all  very  "tender"  and  easily  harmed  by 
a  slight  frost;  they  should  not  be  set  outdoors  in  the  North 
until  the  weather  is  warm  and  settled.  Other  vegetables, 
properly  handled,  will  endure  more  or  less  frost  and  cold, 
and  are  therefore  called  "hardy."  Some  of  the  latter,  how- 
ever, are  more  hardy  than  others — onions  and  peas  are  espe- 
cially proof  against  cold. 

The  seeds  of  some  vegetables  possess  greater  vitality  than 
others.  The  pioneer  gardener,  Peter  Henderson,  claimed  that 
peas,  beans,  peppers,  carrots,  corn,  eggplant,  okra,  salsify, 
thyme,  sage  and  rhubarb  are  safe  for  only  about  two  years; 
asparagus,  endive,  lettuce,  parsley,  spinach  and  radish  are 
safe  for  about  three  years;  broccoli,  cauliflower,  cabbage, 
celery  and  turnip  are  safe  for  perhaps  five  years,  while  the 
beet,  cucumber,  melon,  pumpkin,  squash  and  tomato  may 
retain  their  vitality  for  six  years  or  more. 

Three  important  objects  are  gained  by  transplanting  to 
coldframes  before  setting  in  the  field:  The  plants  are  hard- 
ened or  accustomed  to  a  lower  temperature;  and,  second, 
their  roots  are  toughened  by  the  move,  and  so  suffer  less 
when  the  final  move  is  made  to  the  open  field;  and,  third, 
they  are  given,  in  the  coldframe,  more  room  to  grow  wide 
and  stocky.  Growers  who  want  extra-large,  stocky  tomato 
plants,  etc.,  sometimes  transplant  them  several  times,  each 
time  giving  them  more  space  in  the  frames. 

"In  field  culture,  the  most  important  matter  in  the 
germination  of  seeds  is  the  supply  of  moisture,"  says  an 
expert.  "Satisfactory  germination  can  not  be  secured  with  an 
insufficient  amount  of  soil  moisture.  Thorough  preparation 
of  the  ground  is  essential.  It  is  also  necessary  to  firm  the 
soil  after  sowing,  drilling  or  planting.  A  firm  seedbed, 
bringing  the  seed  into  intimate  contact  with  moist  soil,  is 
the  secret  of  quick  germination,  provided  the  ground  is 
warm  and  the  depth  of  covering  not  too  great.  The  proper 
depth  depends  upon  the  variety."  (See  chapters  about  vege- 
tables, etc.) 


SOWING   AND   PLANTING 


Plant  labels  are  often  wanted  in  the  garden,  but  as 
ordinarily  made  are  usually  soon  rendered  unreadable  by 
the  action  of  rain  and  sun.  Seedsmen  sell  excellent  and 
durable  metal  labels,  but  they  are  not  very  cheap.  Here's 
a  good  idea  from  Prairie  Farmer:  Cut  two 
pieces  of  lath  (as  shown  in  the  illustration), 
and  fasten  together  at  top  with  one  tiny  clinched 
nail — so  that  the  short  piece  of  protecting  cover 
will  swing.  Only  the  part  to  be  written  on 
need  be  smooth.  The  name  may  be  written  in 
pencil,  or  the  printed  name  from  the  seed  envel- 
ope may  be  glued  on.  The  labels  may  be  used 
many  seasons,  gluing  fresh  names  over,  or 
erasing  and  rewriting. 

Here's  a  method  of  raising  flower  plants,  melons,  etc., 
in  the  house  for  transplanting  outdoors,  without  the  expense 
of  buying  pots.  Take  old  fruit  cans 
and  unsolder  them  in  the  fire.  Tie 
the  tins  together  with  a  stout  string, 
and  set  them  on  a  board  (see  pic- 
ture). Fill  with  earth  and  plant 
seeds.  When  ready  to  transplant, 
cut  the  string,  and  the  earth  with 

--  its  mass  of   roots   can  be   lifted  and 

set  in  a  hole  in  the  ground,  without  disturbing  the  roots 
in  the  least  degree.  The  tin,  of  course,  flies  open  when  the 
string  is  cut.  (Some  gardeners  start  early  melons,  etc., 
indoors  on  inverted  thick  pieces  of  sod.) 

Usually  it  is  cheaper  and  better  to  buy  seed  than  to 
attempt  to  grow  and  save  it.  Sometimes,  however,  there  are 
advantages  in  home  saving,  and  many  successful  gardeners 
produce  at  least  one  or  two  kinds  of  seed  at  home.  But 
unless  a  man  is  making  a  specialty  of  something,  and  is 
located  in  a  place  where  its  seeds  are  at  their  best,  I  doubt 
the  advantage  of  home-grown  seed.  Good  seed  means  careful 
yearly  selection;  good  judgment;  knowledge  of  the  variety; 
a  systematic  discarding  or  "roguing"  of  undesirable  speci- 
mens; and  an  ideal  type  in  mind,  toward  which  the  strain 
is  constantly  pushed.  Remember  that  the  tendency  of 
improved  kinds  of  plants  is  to  deteriorate  or  revert  to 
early  types,  and  only  a  careful  annual  selection  and  "weeding 
out"  can  prevent  a  backward  tendency.  Plants,  like  animals, 
may  be  "bred  up,"  but  it  requires  patience  and  skill  to  do  it. 
If  you  plant  little  potatoes  every  year,  or  select  inferior 
tomatoes  for  seed,  or  have  seed  melons  where  squash  pollen 
can  mix  with  them,  good  results  are  not  likely  to  be  attained. 
Keep  most  seeds  that  you  save  in  a  mouse-proof,  insect-proof 
tin  box  in  a  dry  place;  seed  corn  on  the  ear  should  be  hung 
up  by  the  husks,  in  the  attic;  seed  potatoes  need  to  be  kept 
in  a  dark,  cold  cellar,  or  stored  in  an  outdoor  pit. 


CHAPTER  IV 

FERTILIZATION.     CULTIVATION 
IRRIGATION 

Spare  the  weeds  and  spoil  the  crop; 
Stint   the   food   and  growth   will   stop. 

*HERE  are  many  kinds  of  fertiliz- 
ing materials,  and  all  are  useful  in 
some  way  and  in  some  degree; 
only  experience  and  observation 
can  show  which  are  best  for  your 
soil  and  your  crops.  In  a  general 
way,  however,  I  will  say  that 
there  is  no  better  all-purpose  fer- 
tilizer than  stable  manure — all  you 
can  get  of  it,  say  from  ten  to  twenty  tons  to  the  acre. 
Haul  it  on  the  ground  in  winter  and  early  spring, 
and  spread  it  as  it  is  hauled;  plow  it  under,  and 
then  broadcast  (to  each  acre)  about  400  pounds  of 
kainit  (a  commercial  form  of  potash),  and  about 
600  pounds  of  finely  ground  bone  meal ;  harrow  this 
in,  and  you  have  a  very  good,  complete  mixture  which 
contains  all  essential  elements  of  plant  food.  Or, 
if  you  desire,  you  can  substitute  muriate  or  sulphate 
of  potash  for  the  kainit,  or  twenty-five  bushels  of 
unleached  hardwood  ashes ;  or  phosphates  or  super- 
phosphates may  be  substituted  for  the  bone. 

If  stable  manure  can  not  be  obtained,  and  if 
there  is  sufficient  humus  in  the  soil,  buy  a  high-grade, 
complete,  ready-mixed,  commercial  fertilizer — the 
best  you  can  get,  not  the  cheapest — and  broadcast  it 


44  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

on  plowed  land  at  the  rate  of  about  1,200  pounds 
to  the  acre  (more  or  less  according  to  the  soil  and 
the  crop).  Or,  if  you  care  to  bother  with  the  home 
mixing  of  such  a  fertilizer,  you  can  buy  the  separate 
ingredients,  mix  them  yourself,  and  perhaps  save 
some  money.  Write  to  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  ask  for  free 
Farmers'  Bulletins  Nos.  44,  192,  245,  257  and  278, 
and  you  will  obtain  full  information  on  this  and 
kindred  subjects. 

HUMUS. — This  has  to  do  with  the  mechanical 
condition  of  the  soil.  Humus  is  decayed  vegetable 
matter,  without  which  any  soil  is  almost  worthless. 
Humus  separates  the  soil  particles,  makes  the  ground 
mellow  and  loose,  and  aids  it  to  retain  moisture  and 
air.  A  soil  without  humus  is  dead,  airless,  and  either 
dry  and  hard  as  a  stone,  or  a  sticky  mass  of  mud. 
Therefore,  stable  manure  has  a  value  aside  from  its 
fertilizing  contents — i.  e.,  its  ability  to  supply  humus 
to  the  soil.  Leaves,  straw,  or  any  decaying  vegeta- 
tion, would  answer  the  same  purpose.  If  these  things 
can  not  be  had,  then  the  gardener  must  occasionally 
grow  some  crop  like  clover,  rye,  vetch,  oats,  etc., 
which  can  be  plowed  under  and  thus  furnish  the 
necessary  humus. 

COVER  CROPS. — By  these  are  meant  humus- 
making  crops  which  are  sown  broadcast  after  vege- 
tables, etc.,  are  off,  and  which  then  grow  through  the 
fall,  cover  and  protect  the  ground  through  the  win- 
ter, and  are  plowed  under  in  the  spring  in  time  for 
regular  garden  planting.  Red  clover,  or  sand  vetch, 
or  rye,  or  oats  and  crimson  clover  combined,  etc., 
may  be  used  for  this  purpose.  A  "catch  crop"  is 
the  same  as  a  cover  crop,  only  it  is  sown  at  the  last 
cultivation,  before  the  vegetables  are  off. 


FERTILIZATION.       CULTIVATION.      IRRIGATION  45 

NITROGENOUS  CROPS. — Nitrogen  is  the  most  ex- 
pensive of  all  fertilizing  elements,  but  if  the  gardener 
can  not  afford  to  buy  enough  of  it  (in  stable  manure 
or  nitrate  of  soda,  etc.)  he  can  supplement  his  supply 
by  producing  it  right  at  home.  How?  By  the  simple 
process  of  growing  some  crop  which  has  the  ability 
to  extract  nitrogen  from  the  air  and  store  it  up  in 
the  form  of  nodules  or  lumps  on  its  roots.  Plants 
of  this  kind  are  called  "legumes" ;  the  principal  ones 
are :  Clover,  vetch,  beans,  peas  and  cowpeas.  Any 
one  of  these,  if  planted  as  a  cover  crop  or  as  a  crop 
to  plow  under,  adds  nitrogen  to  the  soil  and  greatly 
improves  the  land.  This  process  is  called  "green 
manuring,"  and  if  the  garden  is  not  full  of  humus 
and  if  stable  manure  can  not  be  had  to  supply  nitro- 
gen cheaply,  it  m?y  pay  you  to  spend  a  preliminary 
season  in  the  growing  and  turning  under  of  such 
crops — supplementing  the  nitrogen  thus  obtained  by 
broadcast  applications  of  potash  and  bone  meal  in  the 
spring,  and  lime  in  the  fall.  (NOTE:  Oats,  rye,  etc., 
furnish  humus  but  no  nitrogen ;  legumes  furnish 
both.) 

NITRATE  OF  SODA. — Much  is  heard  about  the  quick 
results  produced  by  this  nitrogenous  fertilizer,  but 
unless  it  is  handled  with  great  carefulness  I  can  not 
recommend  its  use.  Harriet  says  that  it  is  "more 
like  a  stimulant  than  a  food."  It  must  be  applied  in 
small  doses  often.  Yes,  and  with  care — or  you'll  kill 
your  plants.  About  100  pounds  at  a  dose  to  the  acre 
is  usually  enough,  and,  generally  speaking,  it  should 
not  come  in  direct  contact  with  plants.  (Nitrogen 
may  also  be  purchased  in  the  form  of  dried  blood, 
guano,  tankage,  cotton  seed  meal,  sulphate  of  am- 
monia, etc.) 

LIQUID  MANURE. — This,  like  nitrate  of  soda,  is  a 


46  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

quick  stimulant  (but  usually  a  safe  one  in  this  case). 
I.  M.  Angell,  New  York  State,  contributes  the  fol- 
lowing experience:  "A  satisfactory  plan  for  sup- 
plying the  manure  water,  was  to  set  a  large  per- 
forated tin  pail  into  a  rack  that  was  fastened  across 
the  top  of  an  ordinary  wash-tub.  A  spigot  was  fitted 
into  the  wash-tub  near  the  bottom.  Whenever  liquid 
manure  was  required,  a  quantity  of  manure  from  the 
stable  was  placed  in  the  tin  pail  and  enough  water 
poured  through  it  to  fill  the  wash-tub  into  which  it 
drained.  By  turning  the  spigot  we  drew  off  into  a 
pail  whatever  we  wished  to  carry  to  the  plants.  This 
'filter'  has  been  in  use  several  seasons  and  is  entirely 
satisfactory.  The  manure  is  rich  enough  to  supply 
a  number  of  tubfuls  of  the  mixture  before  it  is 
necessary  to  replace  it.  To  apply  the  liquid  manure 
we  turned  up  a  furrow  with  the  hand  plow,  close 
to  the  row,  poured  in  the  water,  and  turned  back  the 
soil  with  the  same  tool.  This  method  puts  the  liquid 
where  it  will  do  the  most  good,  and  the  loose  earth 
that  is  returned  to  its  place  makes  the  best  sort  of 
mulch;  and  by  the  same  operation  the  ground  re- 
ceives cultivation.  Nitrate  of  soda  may  be  used  in 
the  same  way  on  such  a  garden.  Our  method  is  to 
mix  one  pound  with  enough  water  to  wet  100  feet 
of  row.  By  the  time  the  garden  has  all  received  a 
share,  perhaps  in  the  course  of  several  days,  the  first 
vegetables  treated  will  be  ready  for  another  dose." 

LIME. — Some  soils  are  "sour."  Lime  will  correct 
this  acidity  and  sweeten  things  generally,  besides 
helping  to  unlock  and  make  available  the  stores  of 
fertility  which  may  be  in  the  ground.  Applied  to 
stiff  clay  soils,  it  renders  them  loose  and  friable; 
while  it  binds  together  sandy  soils,  thus  making 
them  more  retentive  of  moisture  and  fertility.  Take 


FERTILIZATION.       CULTIVATION.       IRRIGATION  47 

fresh  stone  lime,  slack  it  with  water  until  it  becomes 
a  dry  powder,  then  broadcast  it  in  fall  or  early  spring 
and  work  it  into  the  soil.  The  quantity  to  apply  prer 
acre  varies  from  twenty  to  forty  or  more  bushels. 
Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  77,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agri- 
culture, Washington,  D.  C,  explains  this  matter  fully. 
Better  get  a  copy.  Harriet  has  mine  safely  filed  away 
in  the  desk  in  my  room,  and  I  shouldn't  like  to 
spare  it. 

COMPOSTS. — For  flower  pots,  small  gardens,  hot- 
beds, coldframes,  window  gardens,  etc.,  a  well-made 
compost  is  very  useful.  It  is  simply  a  mixture  of 
ordinary  soil  with  well-rotted  sods,  stable  manure, 
leaves,  or  any  other  available  vegetable  matter.  Pile 
the  various  ingredients  in  a  long,  low  pile  outdoors 
and  fork  it  over  several  times  at  intervals,  thus  fining 
and  mixing  all  thoroughly  together  and  hastening 
decomposition.  A  little  freshly-slaked  lime  added 
to  the  mass  is  an  .advantage.  The  pile  may  be 
started  in  the  fall,  or  whenever  desired,  and  should 
be  ready  for  use  in  six  months  or  a  year  (according 
to  materials  used).  Some  gardeners  put  potato  and 
tomato  vines,  etc.,  on  the  compost  pile — any  waste 
stuff,  in  fact — but  if  there  are  any  blights  or  fun- 
gous diseases  in  the  garden,  'twould  be  safer  to  burn 
such  vine  and  plant  refuse  than  to  use  it  in  a  com- 
post and  thus  spread  the  trouble. 

CULTIVATION. — The  offices  of  tillage  are  several. 
Among  the  more  important  ones  are : 

1.  The  setting  free  of  plant  food  by  increasing 
the  chemical  activities  in  the  soil. 

2.  The    soil    is    made    finer    and    hence    presents 
greater  surfaces  to  the  roots,  thus  increasing  the  area 
from  which  the  roots  can  absorb  nutriment. 

3.  The  surface  of  the  soil  is  kept  in  such  condi- 


48  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

tion  that  it  immediately  absorbs  all  the  rain  that  falls 
during  the  summer,  when  it  is  apt  to  be  dry.  Little 
is  tost  by  surface  drainage. 

4.  Moisture    is    conserved    thereby.      Where    the 
surface  remains  undisturbed  for  weeks  the  soil  be- 
comes   packed,    so    that    the    moisture    from    below 
readily  passes  to  the  surface  and  is  evaporated,  thus 
being  lost  to  the   growing   crop.     If   the   surface   is 
kept  light  and  loose  by  tillage,  so  that  the  capillarity 
is  broken,  but  little  of  the  soil  moisture  comes  to  the 
surface  and  evaporation  is  not  so  great.     In  this  way 
nearly  all  the  moisture  remains  in  the  soil,  where  it 
can  be  used  by  the  roots. 

5.  Thorough    tillage    has    a    tendency    to    cause 
deeper  rooting  of  the  roots.     The  surface  of  the  soil 
is  made  drier  by  tillage  during  the  early  part  of  the 
season  than  it  would  otherwise  be;  hence  the  roots 
go  where  the  soil  is  moist.     The  advantage  of  deep 
rooting  during  drought  is  obvious. 

6.  Weeds   and   grass   are   kept   out — and   we   all 
know  the  importance  of  this. 

MULCHING. — There  are  two  kinds  of  mulch — the 
"dust  mulch"  caused  by  regular  surface  cultivation, 
and  the  mulch  which  is  applied  in  the  form  of  straw, 
leaves,  stable  manure,  or  similar  materials.  For 
nearly  all  purposes  I  prefer  and  use  the  "dust  mulch." 
The  main  object  of  mulching  during  the  growing 
season  is  to  prevent  the  evaporation  of  moisture  in 
the  soil,  and  shallow  cultivation  does  that  effectively; 
and  does  not,  like  other  forms  of  mulch,  furnish 
breeding  places  for  insects  and  fungi.  In  special  in- 
stances, however,  a  mulch  of  litter  is  a  good  thing. 
For  instance :  Straw,  etc.,  will  keep  strawberries 
clean  in  a  fruiting  bed;  currant  bushes  root  so  near 
the  surface  that  ordinary  cultivation  often  injures 


FERTILIZATION.       CULTIVATION.       IRRIGATION  49 

.the  roots,  and  therefore  a  light  working  of  the  soil 
in  spring  followed  by  a  heavy  mulch  of  stable 
manure,  etc.,  is  an  excellent  plan  to  follow ;  in  the 
fall  a  mulch  of  strawy  manure,  etc.,  protects  and 
fertilizes  the  roots  of  vines,  plants,  bushes,  etc.,  dur- 
ing cold  weather,  and  prevents  the  alternate  freezing 
and  thawing  which  causes  plants  to  "heave"  out  of 
the  ground  more  or  less. 

IMPLEMENTS  FOR  CULTIVATION. — For  a  small  gar- 
den I  should  choose  a  medium-sized,  ordinary-shaped 
hand  hoe;  a  single-wheel  hoe  and  its  various  attach- 
ments of  tiny  rakes,  cultivator  teeth,  plows,  etc. ; 
one  wide,  iron  hand  rake  (say  about  sixteen  teeth), 
and  a  narrow  one  with  not  more  than  eight  teeth; 
and  one  or  two  of  the  claw-like  hand  weeders  here 
illustrated.  In  addition  I  should  buy  an  extra  hand 
hoe  and  cut  it  with  a  file  into  the  shape  shown  by 


HAND   WEEDERS  A    REMODELED    HOE  SCUFFLE    HOES 

the  dotted  lines  in  the  accompanying  picture ;  this 
kind  of  a  hoe  is  very  useful  at  times,  especially  in  the 
strawberry  patch.  The  narrow  rake  mentioned,  can, 
in  mellow  ground,  often  be  used  easier  and  to  better 
advantage  than  any  hoe. 

Some  gardeners  prefer  one  style  of  wheel  hoe, 
some  another;  there  are  several  good  makes  on  the 
market  and  the  amateur  can  not  go  far  astray  if  he 
buys  any  one  of  them.  But  I  should  not  advise  the 
purchase  of  the  combinations  of  seeder  and  wheel 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


THE    ONE-HORSE   CULTIVATOR    IS    THE    THING 
FOR    MEDIUM-SIZED    AREAS 


hoe,  etc.,  which 
are  on  the  mar- 
ket ;  buy  your 
seed  planter 
separately.  A 
wheel  hoe,  if 
rightly  used,  is  a 
great  labor- 
saver;  but  do 
not  think  that 
you  can  push 
one  steadily 
along  like  a  horse 
cultivator  —  it 

should  be  sent  forward  with  a  series  of  little,  quick 
pushes,  an  inch  or  so  at  a  time.  The  single-wheel  hoe 
is  mostly  used  for  work  between  rows ;  the  double- 
wheel  hoe  is  especially  adapted  for  straddling  and 
working  on  both  sides  of  a  row.  Of  the  two  styles,  for 
ordinary  use,  I  personally  prefer  the  single  wheel — it 
is  lighter,  cheaper  to  buy,  and  easier  to  operate ;  but 
many  truckers  and  onion  growers  prefer  the  double 
wheel  for  large  areas. 

For  the  larger  gar- 
den, or  commercial  truck 
field,  I  should  want  an 
assortment  of  hoes  of  dif- 
ferent shapes  and  sizes,  a 
double-wheel  hoe,  a  good 
one-horse  cultivator  for 
working  between  two 
rows,  and  (if  the  area 
were  large  enough)  a  two-  ON  SMALL  AREAS  TH 
horse  cultivator  for  work-  --™  I*™ 
ing  two  rows  at  once.  CULTIVATOR 


FERTILIZATION.      CULTIVATION.      IRRIGATION 


There  are  various  makes  of  good  cultivators  on  the 
market.      I    own   three   kinds,    each    adapted   to   one 
horse :       An     iron-frame, 
a  d  j  u  s  t  a  b  1  e-wheel,  five- 
tooth  cultivator ;  a  twelve- 
tooth    machine ;    and    one 
with  five  spring-teeth.    All 
have    their    uses    and    all 
are     adjustable    to     depth 
and  width.    The  first  men- 
tioned  implement  has   sev-      FOR  LARGE  AREAS   THE  TWO- 
eral    attachments  -side  «™l££S*™  'S 

"shovels,"    side    "sweeps/ 

rear  "hoes,"  etc. — which  are  often  helpful  for  special 
needs;  the  flat,  wide,  surface-skimming  sweep  attach- 
ments are  particularly  good  for  killing  such  weeds 
as  thistles,  which  are  apt  to  dodge  and  escape  the 
ordinary  cultivator  tooth. 

THINNING  PLANTS. — This  often  necessary  work 
must  be  done  by  hand  early,  when  the  seedlings  are 
quite  small.  To  get  a  sure  "stand"  of  plants  it  is 
usual  to  sow  more  seeds  in  the  hill  or  to  put  them 
closer  together  in  the  row  than  is  advisable  for  the 
plants'  later  good,  and  then  to  thin  or  pull  or  cut  out 
the  surplus  plants  when  the  stand  is  assured.  The 
distance  apart  to  thin  depends  upon  the  variety;  for 
hints  on  distances,  consult  the  chapters  on  vegetables. 
IRRIGATION. — In  regions  of  normal  rainfall,  arti- 
ficial watering  of  gardens  is  seldom  practised  or 
necessary.  Cultivation,  under  normal  conditions,  con- 
serves sufficient  moisture  for  the  average  plant's 
needs.  In  California  and  some  other  states,  irrigation 
is  a  necessity.  Folks  who  need  to  practise  this 
method  should  write  to  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  ask  for  free 


52  BIGGLE  GARDEN   BOOK 

Farmers'  Bulletins  Nos.  138,  158,  263,  394  and  404. 
'Twould  be  impossible,  here,  to  give  full  information 
on  this  subject.  But  a  few  general  hints  are  in 
order:  If  you  must  water  plants,  etc.,  or  if  the 
season  is  so  abnormally  dry  that  regular  rainfall 
and  cultivation  does  not  suffice,  remember  that  one 
good  soaking  is  worth  many  surface  sprinklings. 
Endeavor  to  apply  the  water  toward  evening,  and 
cultivate  (or  mulch)  the  surface  as  soon  as  possible 


DIFFERENT    KINDS    OF    HOES    ON   A    HANDY 
NOTCHED    RACK 

the  next  day.  If  the  water  supply  is  limited  (and  it 
usually  is),  do  not  apply  it  to  the  surface  but  in  fur- 
rows opened  alongside  the  plants  (as  directed  under 
head  of  Liquid  Manure  in  this  chapter),  then,  when 
the  water  has  soaked  in,  cultivate  the  soil  back  into 
place.  Do  not  sprinkle  water  on  plants  when  the  sun 
is  shining  hot.  Don't  think  that  you  can  irrigate  a 
big  field  with  an  ordinary  wind-mill  outfit — it  takes 
a  tremendous  quantity  of  water  to  soak  even  one 
acre. 

HINTS   FROM   EXPERIENCE 

Sharp  hoes  make  short  work.  Carry  a  file  and  apply  it 
often.  Learn  to  use  a  hoe  so  as  to  leave  the  ground  smooth. 
Keep  hoes  clean. 

Do  not  mix  lime  with  fertilizers,  nor  wood  ashes  with 
hen  manure.  Why?  Because  the  valuable  ammonia  (a 
form  of  nitrogen)  would  thus  be  set  loose  and  would  escape. 


FERTILIZATION.      CULTIVATION.      IRRIGATION  53 

Hen  manure  is  good  for  the  garden,  but  it  is  very 
strong  and  should  not  be  applied  too  freely  nor  in  contact 
with  the  roots.  In  fact,  all  fertilizers  and  manures  should 
be  well  mixed  with  the  soil,  so  that  it  will  not  hurt  the  roots. 

The  important  thing  in  any  garden  is  not  to  allow  the 
weeds  to  get  a  start.  They  are  easily  kept  down  when  young 
by  stirring  the  soil,  but  once  allowed  to  gain  headway,  the 
labor  of  fighting  them  is  greatly  increased.  Weeds  kill 
easiest  when  the  sun  shines  hot. 

Stable  manure  is  not  a  perfectly-balanced  ration  for 
plants,  because  it  contains  rather  too  much  nitrogen  and  not 
quite  enough  of  the  other  essentials.  Therefore  it  should  be 
"balanced"  by  the  addition  of  potash  and  phosphoric  acid  (as 
advised  in  the  forepart  of  this  chapter). 

A  "complete"  fertilizer  must  contain  these  three  ingredi- 
ents: Nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid,  potash.  A  well-balanced 
commercial  mixture  suitable  for  average  garden  purposes 
should  analyze  about  as  follows:  Nitrogen,  four  per  cent.; 
phosphoric  acid,  eight  per  cent. ;  potash,  ten  per  cent. 

Market  gardeners  sometimes  use  a  special  form  of  a  hoe 
called  a  "scuffle"  hoe.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  way  it 
is  scuffled  or  shuffled  back  and  forth  close  to  the  surface, 
doing  quick  work  in  killing  weeds  and  leaving  an  even  sur- 
face. But  it  is  not  adapted  to  loosening  up  the  soil. 

The  advised  quantities  of  fertilizers  per  acre  mentioned 
in  this  chapter  aren't  of  much  help  to  a  reader  who  has  only 
a  small  garden  patch.  So  here's  a  rule  to  help  him  to  figure 
out  the  matter  to  meet  his  own  requirements:  1,000  pounds 
to  the  acre  is  six  and  one-quarter  pounds  to  each  square  rod. 

It  is  generally  best  to  practise  shallow  cultivation.  I 
usually  set  my  horse  cultivator  to  run  about  two  inches  deep; 
this  plan  best  conserves  moisture,  and  avoids  all  danger  of 
cutting  roots.  Once  in  ten  days  is  not  too  often  to  cultivate; 
and  always,  after  a  rain,  the  ground  should  be  stirred  with 
cultivator,  rake  or  hoe  as  soon  as  dry  enough  to  work. 

Several  times  in  this  chapter  I  have  referred  to  "broad- 
casting" fertilizers.  This  can  be  done  by  hand  with  a  shovel, 
or  by  the  aid  of  a  machine  fertilizer  spreader.  Better  yet, 
the  fertilizer  can  be  drilled  in  with  an  ordinary  grain  drill 
or  with  a  special  fertilizer  drill — thus  requiring  no  "har- 
rowing in"  afterward.  Some  gardeners  find  that  it  is  more 
economical  to  apply  fertilizers  and  manure  only  to  the  row 
or  the  hill;  this  plan  certainly  saves  fertilizer,  but  it  requires 
more  fuss  and  work. 


54 


BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 


It  is  an  easy  matter  to  determine  whether  a  soil  needs 
lime.  Five  cents  will  buy  at  a  drug  store  enough  blue  litmus 
paper  to  test  a  large  field.  Cut  the  paper  into  narrow  strips 
and  make  tests  in  different  parts  of  the  field  by  pressing 
the  moist  soil  into  close  contact  with  the  paper.  If  the  paper 
turns  red  in  a  few  minutes,  a  sour  soil  is  indicated  and 
lime  should  be  applied.  The  degree  of  acidity  will  be  shown 
by  the  extent  to  which  the  blue  paper  turns  to  red.  A 
growth  of  sorrel  is  often  an  indication  of  a  sour  soil.  The 
plowing  under  of  heavy  green  crops  usually  causes  sourness 
and  necessitates  applications  of  lime. 

Guiding  a  horse  cultivator:  Some  folks  have  difficulty 
in  the  double  duty  of  holding  the  handles  and  managing  the 
reins.  A  steady,  slow-walking  horse  is  required,  and  you'll 
need  to  buckle  or  tie  on  an  extension  to  the  length  of 
ordinary  lines.  To  operate,  buckle  or  tie  the  lines  together, 
put  them  around  the  upper  part  of  your  body  beneath  both  . 
arms,  and  have  the  lines  just  long  enough  to  be  gently  taut 
as  you  hold  to  the  cultivator  handles  and  walk  along.  Thus 
adjusted,  a  slight  twist  of  the  body  either  way  will  guide 
the  horse  to  right  or  left  as  may  be  required;  and  at  the  end 
of  the  row  a  touch  on  the  lines  with  the  hand  will  "gee" 
or  "haw"  him  around  for  the  return  trip.  Soon  he'll  learn 
the  work  and  keep  his  proper  place  almost  automatically. 
If  at  first  he  walks  too  fast,  lean  back  steadily  on  the  lines 
until  he  learns  a  slower  pace.  Always  cultivate  each  aisle 
between  two  rows,  twice  —  up  on  one  side  and  back  on  the 
other;  keeping  the  same  order  in  each  aisle,  so  that  the  horse 
will  learn  which  side  to  walk  on.  Few  people  can  do  good 


. 

work   by   cultivating   through    an    aisle   just    once    and    trying 
to  watch 


both  rows. 


CHAPTER  V 

SPRAYING.     FORMULAS.     GARDEN  PESTS 
AND  FRIENDS 


Many  a  man  ^vho  imagines  he  could  conquer  the  world 
and  all  the  folks  in  it,  can't  even  manage  the  pests  in  the 
garden. — Dorothy  Tucker. 

PRAYING  mixtures  are  divided 
into  two  classes :  Fungicides  and 
insecticides.  Often,  however,  I 
find  that  it  is  practicable  to  unite 
the  two  into  one  spray — and  thus 
fight  both  fungus  and  insects  at 
the  one  operation.  A  mixture  of 
Bordeaux  solution  and  an  arsen- 
ical poison,  is  a  good  example  of 
such  a  combination.  Bordeaux 
mixture  is  the  best  and  most  useful  of  all  known 
fungicides  for  general  use. 

FUNGICIDES. — Bordeaux  mixture  is  made  by  tak- 
ing three  pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper,  four  pounds 
of  quicklime,  fifty  gallons  of  water.  First,  dissolve 
the  copper  sulphate.  The  easiest,  quickest  way  to 
do  this,  is  to  put  it  into  a  coarse  cloth  bag  and  sus- 
pend the  bag  in  a  receptacle  partly  filled  with  water. 
Next,  slake  the  lime  in  a  tub,  and  strain  the  milk  of 
lime  thus  obtained  into  another  receptacle.  Now  get 
someone  to  help  you,  and,  with  buckets,  simul- 
taneously pour  the  two  liquids  into  the  spraying 
barrel  or  tank.  Lastly,  add  sufficient  water  to  make 
fifty  gallons.  'Tis  safe  to  use  this  full-strength  Bor- 


56  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

deaux  on  almost  all  foliage — except,  perhaps,  on 
extra-tender  things  such  as  watermelon  vines,  peach 
trees,  etc.  For  these  it  is  wiser  to  use  the  following 
half-strength  mixture:  One  and  one-half  pounds  of 
copper  sulphate,  two  pounds  of  quicklime,  fifty  gal- 
lons of  water. 

Formalin:  This  is  also  called  formaldehyde, 
and  may  be  purchased  at  drug  stores.  Its  principal 
use  in  the  garden  is  to  treat  seed  potatoes  to  prevent 
a  fungous  disease  of  the-  tubers  called  "scab."  Soak 
the  whole  seed  for  two  hours  in  a  mixture  of  one- 
half  pint  of  formalin  and  fifteen  gallons  of  cold 
water ;  dry  the  seed,  cut,  and  plant  in  ground  that  has 
not  recently  grown  potatoes. 

Powdered  sulphur :  For  mildew  on  rose  leaves, 
gooseberry  bushes,  etc.  Dust  or  blow  it  on  when  the 
plants  are  wet. 

BORDEAUX  COMBINED  WITH  INSECT  POISON. — By 
adding  one-quarter  pound  of  Paris  green  to  each 
fifty  gallons  of  either  of  the  Bordeaux  formulas,  the 
mixture  becomes  a  combined  fungicide  and  insecti- 
cide. Or,  instead  of  Paris  green,  add  about  two 
pounds  of  arsenate  of  lead  (excellent  commercial 
forms  of  this  are  for  sale  by  seedsmen).  The  ad- 
vantages of  arsenate  of  lead  over  Paris  green  are, 
first,  it  is  not  apt  to  burn  foliage  even  if  used  in 
rather  excessive  quantities ;  and,  second,  it  "sticks" 
to  the  foliage,  etc.,  better  and  longer.  But  it  costs 
a  little  more  than  Paris  green. 

INSECTICIDES. — Sometimes  I  find  it  desirable  to 
apply  a  treatment  for  insects  alone,  without  the 
bother  of  making  the  regulation  Bordeaux.  Here 
are  a  few  standard  formulas  suited  for  chewing 
insects : 

Paris    green :     Two   pounds    of    quicklime,    one- 


SPRAYING.       FORMULAS.       PESTS    AND   FRIENDS          57 

quarter  pound  of  Paris  green,  fifty  gallons  of  water. 
The  lime  helps  to  neutralize  the  caustic  action  of 
Paris  green  on  tender  foliage ;  potato  vines  are  so 
tough,  however,  that  in  their  case  the  lime  may  be 
omitted,  if  desired.  Keep  mixture  well  agitated  while 
spraying.  (Not  so  safe  as  arsenate  of  lead  on  very 
tender  foliage.) 

Arsenate  of  lead:  This  can  be  made  at  home, 
as  follows :  Take  twelve  ounces  of  acetate  of  lead, 
four  ounces  of  arsenate  of  soda,  and  fifty  gallons  of 
water.  Put  the  acetate  of  lead  into  a  gallon  of  water 
in  a  wooden  pail;  in  another  wooden  pail  put  the 
arsenate  of  soda  in  two  quarts  of  water.  When  both 
are  dissolved,  pour  them  together  into  the  spray 
tank  containing  the  required  amount  of  water.  A 
white  precipitate  of  lead  arsenate  immediately  forms 
in  the  tank  and  the  mixture  is  ready  to  be  applied. 
This  remains  in  suspension  longer  than  Paris  green. 
The  ready-prepared  commercial  form  simply  needs 
dissolving  in  water — about  two  pounds  to  fifty  gal- 
lons of  water.  (For  rose-bugs  use  ten  pounds  to 
fifty  gallons.) 

White  hellebore :  This,  if  fresh,  may  be  used 
instead  of  Paris  green  in  some  cases — worms  on  cur- 
rant and  gooseberry  bushes,  for  instance.  (It  is  not 
such  a  powerful  poison  as  the  arsenites,  and  would 
not  do  so  well  for  tough  insects  such  as  potato 
bugs.)  Steep  two  ounces  in  one  gallon  of  hot 
water,  and  use  as  a  spray,  stirring  it  often. 

FOR  SUCKING  INSECTS. — Now  we  come  to  another 
class  of  insecticides,  suited  to  insects  which  suck  a 
plant's  juices  but  do  not  chew.  Arsenic  will  not  kill 
such  pests ;  therefore  we  must  resort  to  solutions 
which  kill  by  contact.  Here  are  some  of  the  best- 
known  recipes  of  this  kind : 


58  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

Kerosene  emulsion :  One-half  pound  of  hard 
or  one  quart  of  soft  soap ;  kerosene,  two  gallons ; 
boiling  soft  water,  one  gallon.  If  hard  soap  is  used, 
slice  it  fine  and  dissolve  in  water  by  boiling ;  add  the 
boiling  solution  (away  from  the  fire)  to  the  kero- 
sene, and  stir  or  violently  churn  for  from  five  to 
eight  minutes,  until  the  mixture  assumes  a  creamy 
consistency.  If  a  spray  pump  is  at  hand,  pump  the 
mixture  back  upon  itself  with  considerable  force 
for  about  five  minutes.  Keep  this  as  a  stock.  It 
must  be  further  diluted  with  soft  water  before  using. 
One  part  of  emulsion  to  fifteen  parts  of  water  is 
about  right  for  lice. 

Carbolic-acid  emulsion :  This  is  made  by  dis- 
solving one  pound  of  hard  soap  or  one  quart  of  soft 
soap  in  a  gallon  of  boiling  water,  to  which  one  pint 
of  crude  carbolic  acid  is  added,  the  whole  being 
stirred  into  an  emulsion.  One  part  of  this  is  added 
to  about  thirty-five  parts  of  water  and  poured 
around  the  bases  of  the  plants,  about  four  ounces 
per  plant  at  each  application,  beginning  when  the 
plants  are  set  out  and  repeated  every  week  or  ten 
days  until  the  last  of  May.  To  bring  about  the  best 
results,  some  of  the  earth  should  be  removed  from 
about  the  plants  before  pouring  on  the  emulsion. 
Used  to  fight  maggots  in  the  soil. 

Whale-oil  soap  solution :  Dissolve  one  pound 
of  whale-oil  soap  in  a  gallon  of  hot  water,  and  dilute 
with  about  six  gallons  of  cold  water.  This  is  a  good 
application  for  aphis  (lice),  and  scale  on  house 
plants,  lilacs,  etc. 

Tobacco  tea :  This  solution  may  be  prepared  by 
placing  five  pounds  of  tobacco  stems  in  a  water- 
tight vessel,  and  then  covering  them  with  three  gal- 
lons of  hot  water.  Allow  to  stand  several  hours ; 


SPRAYING.       FORMULAS.      PESTS    AND   FRIENDS         59 

dilute  the  liquor  by  adding  about  seven  gallons  of 
water.  Strain  and  apply.  Good  for  lice  on  peas, 
roses,  etc.  (Seedsmen  sell  ready-made  solutions. ) 

Buhach :  This  is  also  known  as  pyrethrum,  or 
Persian  insect  powder.  The  best  is  called  California 
buhach;  the  imported  powder  is  not  so  fresh  as  a 
rule  and  therefore  not  so  strong.  It  may  be  used  as 
a  dry  powder,  dusted  on  with  a  powder  bellows  when 
the  plants  are  wet;  or  one  ounce  of  it  may  be 
steeped  in  one  gallon  of  water,  and  sprayed  on  the 
plants  at  any  time.  It  is  often  used  on  flowers,  in 
greenhouses,  on  vegetables,  etc.  Although  a  contact 
poison,  it  can  in  some  cases  be  used  instead  of  the 
more  dangerous  arsenites — on  cabbages,  for  instance, 
to  kill  the  cabbage  worm. 

Fir-tree  oil :  An  effective  remedy  against  mealy 
bug,  red  spider,  thrip,  green  fly,  etc.,  on  household 
plants,  and  in  greenhouses,  etc.  Seedsmen  sell  it, 
and  directions  for  use  accompany  it. 

SPRAY  PUMPS,  ETC. — A  good  spraying  outfit  is 
an  essential  part  of  a  gardener's  requirements.  The 
kind  of  an  outfit  to  buy  de- 
pends, of  course,  on  the  size  of 
your  garden  and  the  plants  to 
be  sprayed.  If  you  have  only 
a  small  patch  a  few  square 
rods  in  size,  perhaps  a  cheap 
hand  atomizer  (see  picture) 
will  answer  the  purpose.  These  HAND  ATOMIZER  FOR 

iti  f     V          •   i  j  SMALL   GARDENS 

hold    a    quart    of    liquid,    and 

seedsmen  and  implement  dealers  sell  them  for  about 

75  cents  if  made  of  tin;  brass,  about  $1.25. 

A  large  powder-bellows  for  applying  buhach, 
sulphur,  etc.,  outdoors,  costs  about  $3.00 — smaller 
sizes  for  indoor  us^  are  cheaper.  (A  less  satis fac- 


6o 


EICGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


POWDER    BELLOWS 


tory  but  often-used  method  of  applying  the  powder, 

is    to   punch    numerous    small 

holes  in  the  bottom  of  a  small 

tin  pail,  fill  with  the  powder,  , 

and   then    shake    it    over    the 

plants  when  they  are  wet.) 

If  the  garden  is  more  than  a  "small  patch,"  and 

yet   not   too   large,    doubtless   one   of   the   new-style, 

compressed-air,     shoulder-strap     sprayers     (sold    by 

seedsmen  and  implement  dealers)  will  answer  the 
purpose  (see  illustration). 
Or,  if  the  area  is  ex- 
tensive, you  may  require 
a  barrel  or  tank  outfit, 
mounted  on  the  farm 
wagon  and  worked  by 
hand ;  or  perhaps  your 
requirements  may  ne- 
cessitate one  of  the 
power  outfits  which  are 
operated  by  either  a 
gasoline  engine,  geared 
connection  with  wagon 
wheels,  or  compressed 
gas  in  cylinders ;  some 
of  these  outfits  are  ar- 
ranged to  spray  several 
rows  of  potatoes,  straw- 
berries, etc.,  at  once  (a 
four-row  automatic 

sprayer  is  illustrated  in  this  chapter  on  page  61). 

Before   deciding   upon   a   pump,   or   buying   one, 

take  a  bit  of  the  same  advice  that  was  given  in  my 

Orchard  Book :     "Write  to  advertisers  in  the  Farm 

Journal    or    other    farm    papers,    get    their    catalogs 


A     COMPRESSED-AIR      SHOULDER- 
STRAP  SPRAYER.      (NOTE  SPE- 
CIAL   ATTACHMENT    FOR 

REACHING  UNDER-SIDE 
OF    LEAVES) 


SPRAYING.      FORMULAS.      PESTS    AND   FRIENDS         6l 


and  price  lists,  and  then  study  and  compare,  and  de- 
cide which  suits  your  purpose  best." 

A  good  pump  should  work  easily,  maintain  a 
steady  spray  from  one  or  several  nozzles,  be  simple 
in  construction,  have  non-corrosive  brass  working 
parts,  be  durable 
and  able  to  stand 
hard  use,  be 
easily  taken  to 
pieces  for  re- 
pair, have  pipes 
properly  arranged 
to  prevent  clog- 
ging, and  be  pro- 
vided with  an 
agitator  which 
keeps  the  solu- 
tion in  vigorous 
motion  and  thoroughly  distributed.  Judging  a  pump 
by  cheapness  alone  is  likely  to  be  poor  economy. 

Nozzles  :  The  Vermorel  nozzle  is  very  popular ; 
so  are  several  other  makes  that  I  have  tried.  The 
main  thing  to  demand  is  a  nozzle  that  will  throw  a 
fine  mist,  like  steam,  which  settles  on  the  plants  like 
dew.  A  sprinkler,  resulting  in  much  "drip"  upon 
the  ground,  is  not  wanted.  And,  too,  a  good  nozzle 
should  not  clog  easily,  and  when  it  does  clog  it 
should  be  quickly  cleanable.  (NOTE:  All  spraying 
mixtures  should  be  strained  before  using,  to  pre- 
vent clogging  the  nozzles.  A  box,  with  the  bottom 
and  top  knocked  out,  will  make  a  frame  for  a 
strainer;  a  brass-wire  mesh — eighteen  or  twenty 
meshes  to  the  inch — can  be  securely  tacked  around 
the  bottom  to  complete  the  job.) 


FOUR-ROW   COMPRESSED-AIR    MACHINE 
FOR    LARGE   AREAS 


62  BIGGLE  GARDEN   BOOK 

HINTS 
Never  spray  strawberries,  etc.,  when  they  are  in  blossom. 

Fungicides  are  not  cures,  but  preventives.  Therefore, 
such  spraying  should  begin  early  in  the  season. 

Poultry:  Harriet  says  that  hens  do  not  belong  in  all  the 
garden,  nor  all  the  garden  in  the  hens.  Either  fence  in  the 
garden  or  the  biddies. 

Ants:  These  do  no  real  harm  in  the  garden;  when 
found  on  plants  or  trees  they  are  after  lice.  Ant  nests  in 
lawns  or  walks  may  be  destroyed  with  hot  water,  bisulphide 
of  carbon,  or  kerosene.  Or  try  whale-oil  soap  solution. 

Earthworms  or  angleworms:  As  a  rule  these  well-known 
wrigglers  do  good  rather  than  harm.  They  loosen  and 
aerate  the  soil.  Applications  of  lime  will  drive  them  away 
if  they  prove  to  be  a  nuisance  in  any  special  instance. 

Rabbits,  groundhogs,  etc.:  In  some  localities,  bunny  is 
a  decided  menace  to  the  garden.  He  likes  a  nibble  of  this 
or  that,  and  he's  always  hungry.  The  same  applies  to  Mr. 
Groundhog  and  some  other  animals.  A  good  preventive  is 
a  wire-netting  fence,  with  the  lower  part  sunk  a  foot  be- 
neath the  soil;  another  is  a  good  dog,  or  a  gun.  Ground- 
hogs can  be  killed  by  putting  bisulphide  of  carbon  in  their 
burrows  and  stopping  up  the  entrances. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon:  This  is  used  to  kill  maggots,  etc., 
in  the  soil,  weevils  in  beans  and  peas,  etc.  It  comes  in 
liquid  form  and  may  be  had  of  druggists.  When  exposed 
to  the  air  it  quickly  vaporizes  into  a  poisonous  and  explo- 
sive gas  which  is  heavier  than  air  and  which  will  destroy 
all  insect  or  animal  life.  Its  various  uses  are  mentioned  in 
several  places  in  this  book.  Caution:  Do  not  inhale  much 
of  the  vapor,  and  allow  no  lights  near.  'Tis  a  safe  and 
useful  remedy  only  when  properly  used. 

Snails:  I  have  never,  myself,  had  any  trouble  with 
these,  but  in  some  places  they  are  said  to  be  a  pest. 
T.  Greiner  in  his  How  to  Make  the  Garden  Pay,  gives  the 
following  remedy:  "Set  traps  by  scattering  pieces  of  orange 
peel  over  the  ground.  Snails  are  so  fond  of  this  delicacy  that 
they  will  remain  clinging  to  the  peel  rather  than  go  back 
to  their  hiding  places  at  break  of  day.  Examine  the  traps 
every  morning,  and  destroy  the  marauders."  With  the  aid 
of  a  lantern  they  can  often  be  found  and  killed  at  night. 


SPRAYING.      FORMULAS.      PESTS    AND   FRIENDS 


Moles  and  field  mice:  These  little  animals  burrow  under- 
ground and  make  small,  irregular  ridges  in  lawn  or  garden. 
They  often  "follow  a  row"  with  great  exactness,  and  there- 
fore some  people  suppose  that  moles  prey  on  plant  roots, 
seed,  grain,  etc.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  mole  is  after 

frubs  and  insects  that  are  feeding  on  the  roots,  and,  there- 
ore,  he  is — in  this  respect  alone — doing  the  gardener  a  favor. 
(Experts  once  captured  and  killed  a  number  of  moles,  to 
test  the  matter  of  their  diet;  only  insects  were  found  in  their 
stomachs.)  But,  unfortunately,  Mr.  Mole,  in  his  quest  for 
plant  enemies,  heaves  up  the  ground,  disturbs  and  breaks 
plant  roots,  and  upsets  things  generally.  So  the  gardener 
declares  him  a  nuisance.  The  remedy?  One  or  two  mole 
traps  (sold  by  seedsmen  and  implement  dealers),  set  in  the 
mole's  regular  runways.  Field  mice  sometimes  do  injury  to 
growing  crops,  and  moles  are  perhaps  blamed  for  it.  Reme- 
dies: Traps,  cats  or  small  pieces  of  meat  poisoned  with 
Paris  green  and  dropped  in  the  runways. 


English  sparrows  are  often  a  pest  in  the  garden, 
shoots,    leaves,    etc. 


Birds:  -        .  .,  ........ 

eating  tender  shoots,  leaves,  etc.  A  few  loads  of  fine  shot 
fired  at  them  occasionally  will  frighten  them  away.  If  you 
live  in  town  where  you  can  not  fire  a  gun,  no  easy  remedy 
can  be  suggested.  Poisoned  grain  will  kill  them,  but  on 
account  of  the  danger  to  pet  animals  and  beneficial  birds, 
I  can  not  advise  its  use.  Fish  or  mosquito  netting  can  be 
spread  over  a  small  patch ;  or  around  currant  bushes.  I 
know  of  one  strawberry  lover  who  screens  in  quite  a  fair- 
sized  bed  of  strawberries  to  keep  robins,  etc.,  from  eating 
the  ripening  fruit;  he  uses  wire  poultry-netting,  supported, 
top  and  sides,  six  feet  high,  and  leaves  the  netting  there 

Fermanently.  Crows  and  blackbirds 
requently  pull  up  planted  corn,  and 
pigeons  are  fond  of  peas,  etc.  Scare- 
crows are  of  little  use.  The  best  pre- 
ventive is  to  tar  the  seed,  as  follows: 
Put  the  seed  into  a  pail  and  pour  on 
enough  warm  water  to  cover  it.  Add 
a  teaspoonful  of  coal  tar  to  a  peck, 
and  stir  well.  Throw  the  seed  out  on 
a  sieve  or  in  a  basket  to  drain, 
and  then  stir  in  a  few  handfuls  of 
land  plaster  (gypsum),  or  air-slaked  lime.  Do  not  pour  the 
tar  on  the  dry  seed.  (In  this  place  let  me  say  that  nearly 
all  birds  are  beneficial  to  the  garden  in  some  way — crows  eat 
field  mice,  and  birds  in  general  eat  many  insects  that  do 
harm.  Toads,  also,  are  friends  of  the  gardener,  because  of 
the  many  insects  they  devour.  Never  kill  or  drive  away  a 
toad.  Lady-bugs  or  lady-birds  are  friends,  too;  they  eat  the 
tiny  lice  that  suck  a  plant's  juices.  Bees  are  beneficial,  for 
they  help  the  pollination  of  blossoms.) 


SCARECROWS     ARE 
LITTLE   USE 


CORRECT   WAY   TO    USE   AN    ASPARAGUS    KNIFE.       BY     PUSHING    DOWN, 

SLANTWISE,     THE    CUT     IS     MADE    WITH     LEAST 

DANGER    TO    OTHER    STALKS 


CHAPTER  VI 
ASPARAGUS.    RHUBARB.    HORSERADISH 

Spring  is  almost  at  hand,  but  do  not  be  too  hasty  to 
begin  outdoor  operations.  Wait  until  the  soil  is  sufficiently 
dry  and  warm.  Nothing  is  gained  by  being  in  too  great  a 
rush. — Farmer  Vincent. 

SPARAGUS  is  a  hardy  perennial, 
which,  when  well  started  and  cared 
for,  should  produce  annual  crops 
for  twenty  or  more  years.  I  have 
learned  that  the  plants  prefer  a  deep, 
well-enriched,  loamy,  moist  but  not 
wet,  soil.  Heavy  clays  are  to  be 
avoided;  the  ideal  soil  is  a  light, 
sandy  loam.  A  sheltered  spot  with  a  sunny  exposure 
helps  to  bring  an  early  crop.  Spade  or  plow  the 
ground  deeply.  Many  writers  insist  that  trenching, 
two  feet  deep,  is  necessary,  but  very  good  results  are 
obtained  with  a  working  of  only  about  half  that 
depth.  Subsoiling  after  plowing  is  the  ideal  method 
for  large  fields. 

For  a  small  bed,  the  easiest  way  to  get  a  quick 
start  is  to  buy  some  one-year-old  roots  of  a  seedsman, 
and  plant  them  in  their  permanent  bed  at  once.  One 
hundred  roots,  when  well  established,  should  furnish 
enough  asparagus  for  the  needs  of  an  average  family. 
Roots  should  be  set,  in  the  North,  in  very  early 
spring;  I  do  not  advise  setting  asparagus  in  the  fall. 
Farther  south,  of  course,  they  can  be  set  out  in  the 
fall  or  early  winter.  Make  furrows  six  inches  deep 
and  three  feet  (four  feet  is  better  for  horse  cultiva- 


66  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

tion)  apart,  and  set  the  plants — crown  up  and  roots 
down  and  well  spread  out — about  two  feet  apart,  in 
the  bottom  of  the  furrows.  Cover  three  inches  deep, 
and  when  the  shoots  are  up  a  few  inches,  work  the 
rest  of  the  dirt  into  the  furrows  and  level  the  ground. 
(If  all  the  covering  is  put  on  at  once,  the  first  shoots 
may  be  too  feeble  to  push  through  six  inches  of  soil.) 
When  planting,  expose  the  roots  to  sun  and  wind  as 
little  as  possible. 

Let  the  plants  grow  at  will  the  first  season ;  sim- 
ply keep  the  ground  well  cultivated  and  free  from 
weeds.  Applications  of  salt  are  not  really  necessary, 
although  salt  is  helpful  to  keep  down  weeds.  After 
frost  has  killed  the  tops,  mow  them  off  close  to  the 
ground  and  burn  them ;  then  apply  a  good  mulch  of 
stable  manure.  The  second  season,  the  same.  The 
third  (and  subsequent)  seasons,  work  the  ground 
lightly  and  early,  keep  out  weeds  and  asparagus  seed- 
lings, cut  every  shoot  clean  and  about  three  inches 
deep  until  about  June  2Oth,  then  let  the  plants  grow ; 
cut  off  and  burn  them  after  frost,  stir  the  ground 
lightly  and  apply  manure,  etc.  (In  the  early  spring 
the  coarser  portion  of  the  mulch  may  be  forked  off, 
and  the  remainder  lightly  forked  or  cultivated  in. 
It  is  important  not  to  cut  a  bed  longer  than  six 
weeks,  and  not  at  all  until  two  years  old.  Use  com- 
mercial fertilizers  in  June  or  July  on  a  bearing  bed, 
in  addition  to  the  fall  mulch.) 

Blanched  asparagus :  Some  people  and  markets 
demand  "blanched"  (whitened)  shoots;  these  are  no 
better  to  eat,  but  have  an  attractive,  distinctive  ap- 
pearance. Blanching  is  accomplished  by  ridging  or 
"hilling  up"  (plowing  or  throwing  the  soil  toward) 
the  rows  in  the  early  spring  before  the  shoots  appear ; 
the  shoots  have  to  push  through  several  inches  of 


ASPARAGUS.       RHUBARB.       HORSERADISH 


AN   ASPARAGUS 

1  KNIFE"   is  MORE 

LIKE  A  CHISEL 


extra  soil  and  thus  more  of  the  underground  or 
white  part  can  be  obtained  when  gathering.  (NOTE: 
R.  B.  Handy  says  that  if  the  lay  of  the  land  permits, 
it's  an  advantage  to  have  ridged  rows  of  asparagus 
run  north  and  south,  on  account  of  better  distribu- 
tion of  sunshine  on  both  sides  of  the  ridges  when 
thus  arranged.)  Cutting  is  usually  done  with  a  spe- 
cial-shaped asparagus  knife  (see 
illustration)  which  facilitates  very 
deep  cutting.  The  blanched  stalks 
are  not  usually  allowed  to  get 
much  above  the  surface,  and  cut- 
ting is  done  regularly  every  day,  care  being  taken 
not  to  injure  stalks  not  yet  up,  or  the  crowns. 
The  aisles  between  four-foot  rows  may  be  cultivated 
regularly  with  a  horse  without  hurting  the  hilled-up 
crop ;  and  the  ridges  may  be  kept  clean  by  light  hoe- 
ing or  raking,  after  cutting.  Or  a  double  harrow, 
composed  of  two  sections  hinged  in  the  middle,  and 
of  sufficient  width,  may  be  used  in  two-horse  form 
to  work  astride  the  ridges.  After  the  cutting  season 
is  over  the  ridges  should  be  plowed  down  and  flat 
cultivation  given  until  the  growth  of  tops  prevents. 
(This  ridging  or  blanching  method  is  quite  common 
among  market  gardeners,  but  the  level-culture 
method  given  in  the  foregoing  paragraphs  is  often 
preferable  for  the  small  home-garden — and  either 
method  is  better  than  the 
old  way  of  growing  aspar- 
agus in  "beds.") 

Marketing  asparagus : 
An  asparagus  "buncher" 
(see  picture)  is  a  great 

AN  ASPARAGUS    BUNCHER    ,.       ^  .tO       me,in       getting 

HELPFUL  bunches      ready      for      sale. 


68  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

When  cut  off  uniformly  at  the  butts,  washed,  and 
tied  with  neat,  narrow  tape,  or  cord,  they  are  ready 
for  the  customer  or  for  packing  into  crates  for 
shipment.  Sizes  of  crates  and  bunches  vary  in  dif- 
ferent localities;  usually  the  bunches  are  about  four 
inches  in  diameter  and  seven  to  nine  inches  long. 
Asparagus  is  a  profitable  crop  when  properly  han- 
dled. No  other  crop  responds  more  generously  to 
liberal  and  intelligent  treatment.  One  of  the  most 
successful  Illinois  growers  makes  three  grades,  and 
the  bunches  of  each  grade  are  tied  with  different 
colored  ribbon  or  tape.  The  stalks  in  each  grade 
are  uniform  in  size  and  quality.  His  entire  crop 
is  shipped  to  Chicago  and  handled  by  one  firm. 
When  cutting  "grass,"  he  is  careful  not  to  leave  the 
stalks  long  in  the  sun  after  being  cut.  The  yield  to 
the  acre  varies  greatly — from  about  500  to  2,000 
bunches,  according  to  soil  and  season.  The  later 
crop  can  often  be  sold  to  canneries. 

Growing  asparagus  from  seed :  This  is  easily 
done,  and  the  gardener  who  wants  many  plants  can 
save  money  by  growing  his  own.  Two  ounces  of 
seed  should  sow  about  100  feet  of  drill ;  two  pounds 
should  grow  enough  roots  to  plant  an  acre.  This 
seed  germinates  very  slowly,  and  it  is  a  help  to  soak 
the  seed  in  warm  water  twenty-four  hours  before 
sowing.  For  wheel-hoe  culture,  make  the  rows  about 
one  foot  apart ;  for  horse  cultivation,  two  and  one- 
half  feet  apart.  In  the  North,  sow  in  early  April ; 
farther  south,  earlier,  according  to  latitude.  Cover 
the  seed  about  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  an 
inch  or  so  high,  thin  them  to  about  three  inches 
apart.  Give  good  culture  all  summer,  and  the  next 
spring  you  should  have  some  nice  one-year-old  roots 
to  transplant  to  their  permanent  place.  ('Tis  said 


ASPARAGUS.       RHUBARB.       HORSERADISH  69 

that  one-year-old  plants  are  more  desirable  for  trans- 
planting than  two-year-olds ;  and  that  the  male 
plants — those  that  bear  no  seeds — produce  larger 
asparagus  than  the  seed-bearing  female  plants ;  hence 
some  few  specialists  go  so  far  as  to  discard  all  seed- 
producing  plants.  If  planted  2x3  feet  apart,  7,260 
roots  are  required  for  one  acre ;  2x4  feet,  5,445 
roots.) 

Another  method :  Mark  out  furrows,  say  four 
feet  apart  and  six  inches  deep,  on  well-prepared,  well- 
manured  land.  Sow  the  seed  in  the  furrows  and 
cover  lightly.  As  the  plants  grow,  gradually  pull  the 
soil  to  them  until  level,  in  the  meantime  thinning 
them  out  to  about  two  feet  apart.  Perhaps  the  thin- 
nings can  be  sold  to  a  neighbor.  Give  careful  culti- 
vation, and  your  asparagus  should  be  ready  for  busi- 
ness in  two  years.  This  method  obviates  the  neces- 
sity of  transplanting. 

Asparagus  is  sometimes  forced  in  hotbed,  cold- 
frame  or  cellar.  Dig  mature  roots  in  the  fall  and 
store  them  until  wanted.  The  roots,  after  forcing, 
are  worthless. 

Varieties   of   asparagus :     Any   variety   is   about  f 
as  good  as   another;   size  and  quality  depend  more; 
upon    culture    and    manure    than    upon    the    variety. ' 
Conover's  Colossal,  Palmetto,  Barr's  Mammoth  and 
Columbian  White  are  well-known  kinds  that  I  have 
tested. 

Insects  and  diseases :  The  principal  asparagus 
pests  are  beetles  and  rust.  There  are  two  kinds  of 
asparagus  beetles,  both  of  which  injure  the  plants  by 
eating  the  green  parts  and  making  holes  in  the  stalks, 
and  by  laying  their  eggs  upon  the  plants,  from  which 
eggs  grubs  or  larvae  hatch  and  feed  upon  the  green 
parts  of  the  plant.  In  habits,,  effects  and  remedies 


7O  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

the  two  species  are  similar,  but  ^he  beetles  are  differ- 
ent. Both  species  deposit  rows  of  small  dark  eggs, 
placed  endwise  on  the  plants.  The  remedies  for 
both  are  the  same,  and  consist  in  regularly  cutting 
low  the  entire  patch  of  asparagus,  thus  destroying 
the  beetles'  food  supply  until  July;  or  dusting  with 
flour  and  buhach ;  or  permitting  a  portion  of  the 
patch  to  remain  uncut  and  spraying  it  with  some 
arsenical  poison,  especially  arsenate  of  lead,  which 
will  stick  to  the  plants  that  are  not  to  be  used  for 
food.  Stalks  covered  with  eggs  may  be  cut  down  and 
burned  at  any  time.  Chickens  and  ducks,  if  allowed 
the  run  of  the  asparagus  patch,  will  destroy  hun- 
dreds of  the  pests.  The  ridged  system  is  a  help  when 
beetles  are  plentiful,  for  blanched  stalks  are  cut  just 
as  they  peep  through  the  ground,  and  so  the  beetle 
does  not  find  much  available  material  for  eating 
or  egg  laying. 

Asparagus  rust  is  a  fungous  disease  which  most 
commonly  occurs  where  the  plants  are  too  damp 
and  the  air  circulation  is  poor.  It  is  to  be  prevented 
by  cutting  all  the  plants  low  and  frequently,  and 
spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  during  the  season 
after  the  cutting  stops.  Cut  and  burn  the  rusty  plants 
in  the  fall  as  soon  as  they  ripen  or  commence  to  die. 
The  disease  is  worse  some  seasons  than  others. 

RHUBARB. — This,  like  asparagus,  is  a  hardy  per- 
ennial, and  does  best  in  a  deep  loamy  soil  made  very 
rich  with  stable  manure  and  fertilizers.  In  the  small 
garden  the  rows  may  be  about  three  feet  apart ;  for 
horse  cultivation,  four  feet  apart.  Space  the  plants 
about  three  feet  apart  in  the  rows,  and  set  them  deep 
enough  to  cover  the  top  "eyes"  about  two  inches. 
Except  for  large  plantations  I  believe  that  it  is  best 
to  buy  the  plants  of  a  seedsman;  set  in  very  early 


ASPARAGUS.      RHUBARB.       HORSERADISH  71 

spring;  or  in  the  fall,  well  mulched.  An  acre  set 
3x4  feet,  requires  3,630  roots.  No  stalks  should  be 
pulled  the  first  summer ;  a  light  crop  the  second 
season ;  a  full  crop  the  third. 

Cultivation  begins  in  the  early  spring  and  con- 
tinues until  fall,  when  a  heavy  coat  of  manure  should 
be  applied.  Seed-stalks  should  be  cut  off  whenever 
seen,  so  as  to  throw  all  the  force  of  the  plants  into 
themselves.  A  plantation  is  good  for  about  twenty 
years,  but  after  a  few  years  the  roots  develop  into 
big  "clumps"  that  need  to  be  severely  trimmed  with 
a  spade.  Don't  be  afraid;  cut  straight  down,  all 
around ;  many  of  the  trimmings  can  be  used  for  new 
plantations  or  sold  to  neighbors.  Each  strong  "eye," 
with  roots  attached,  will,  if  removed  and  set  in  good 
soil,  make  a  new  plant;  in  fact,  this  is  the  common 
method  of  propagation  (Plants  may  be  grown  from 
seed,  planted  the  same  as  asparagus,  but  this  requires 
the  loss  of  a  year's  time.) 

Marketing  rhubarb :  Methods,  markets  and  ship- 
ping-packages vary  in  different  localities.  Some  Illi- 
nois growers  begin  pulling  rhubarb  as  soon  as  the 
stalks  are  six  or  eight  inches  long,  and  ship  in  third- 
bushel  climax  baskets ;  they  claim  to  get  more  out 
of  it  in  this  way.  It  is  a  question  whether  in  the 
long  run  this  is  better 
than  to  let  the  stalks 
get  full  length  before 
beginning  to  pull. 
Later  on,  the  large, 
fifty-pound  crate  is 

r,  i  What  A     LONG'    L°W,    WELL-BANKED     SHED 

eu.         w  ndi          FQR  FORCING  RHUBARB  IN  WINTER 
ever  plan  is   adopted, 

it  is   well  to  bear   in  mind  that  it   does   not   pay  to 
fill  the  packages  with   small   stringy  stalks,  and  top 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


them  out  with  nice  large  ones.  Better  make  two 
grades,  and  pack  honestly.  See  that  the  stalks  are 
large  enough  and  that  they  are  properly  cleaned 
and  trimmed.  In  some  markets  the  leaves  may  be 
left  on;  in  others  they  must  be  cut  off.  Some  mar- 
kets require  bunching  and  tying ;  others  do  not.  The 
best-known  varieties  are :  Linnaeus  and  Victoria — 
the  former  being  the  earlier  kind.  There  are  no  in- 
sects or  fungous  diseases  that  are  troublesome. 

Forcing  rhubarb :  This  is  often  done  in  the  gar- 
den in  a  small  way,  by  placing  a  barrel  or  tall  box 
(without  top  or  bottom)  over  a  strong  clump  of 
"pieplant,"  and  then  banking  up  around  it  with 
manure.  Do  this  just  before  growth  starts,  and  the 
stalks  will  be  ready  to  use  much  earlier  than  usual. 
Matters  may  be  hastened  still  more,  I  will  add,  by 
placing  a  piece  of  glass  over  the  top  for  a  while  or 
during  bad  weather  or  cold  nights.  Or  clumps  of 
rhubarb  may  be  forced  in  an  ordinary  coldframe. 

Rhubarb  may  be  forced,  commercially,  in  special 
houses.  Isaac  Ridgeway  of  New  Jersey  does  it  as 

follows :  He  has  a 
long,  low,  well-banked 
shed,  plastered  on  the 
inside  and  heated  by 
stoves  (see  illustra- 
tions). Into  this  he 
hauls  and  plants, 
about  December  ist, 
frozen  clumps  of  rhu- 
barb. Fires  are  not 
started,  however,  until 
about  the  middle  of 

February.  Pulling  begins  early  in  March,  and  is 
done  twice  a  week.  He  receives  about  five  cents  for 


PULLING     OF    RHUBARB    BEGINS    IN 
MARCH  IN  THIS   FORCING    SHED 


ASPARAGUS.      RHUBARB.       HORSERADISH  73 

three  stalks,  and  has  sold  as  much  as  $1,500  worth 
from  the  building  in  one  season.  Stalks  seem  to 
grow  all  right  in  a  dark  place,  and  he  says  they  sell 
for  more  than  those  grown  under  glass.  (In  a  very 
small  way,  this  forcing  could  be  done  in  any  ordi- 
nary cellar.  It  is  important  to  let  the  clumps  freeze 
before  storing  them  inside.) 

HORSERADISH. — The  best  soil  is  a  rich,  deep,. 
loose,  moist  loam.  This  plant  is  a  hardy  perennial,  says 
Prof.  Bailey,  in  Garden-Making,  but  for  market  it  is 
chiefly  grown  as  an  annual  crop.  "It  is  propagated 
by  'sets,'  which  are  small  roots  (about  the  size  of 
one's  finger)  which  are  trimmed  from  the  large  roots 
when  the  crop  is  stored  in  the  fall.  These  sets  should 
be  cut  in  pieces  four  to  six  inches  long,  the  top  end 
square  so  as  to  mark  the  right  end  up — for  if  the 
sets  are  planted  wrong  end  up,  crooked  roots  will 
result.  The  sets  are  covered  two  or  three  inches  deep 
in  a  vertical  position.  The  roots  are  dug  in  late  fall, 
and  care  is  taken  to  get  all  the  pieces  of  roots  out 
of  the  land,  for  the  plant  is  apt  to  become  a  bad 
weed.  If  old  crowns  are  planted,  crooked  and 
branchy  roots  are  obtained." 

Sets  made  in  the  fall  I  tie  in  bundles  and  keep 
over  winter  packed  in  sand  in  a  cool  cellar.  Rows 
should  be  about  two  and  a  half  feet  apart  to  permit 
of  horse  cultivation,  or  about  half  that  distance  for 
wheel-hoe  work.  Space  sets  about  ten  inches  apart 
in  the  row. 


CHAPTER  VII 
THE  ONION 

A  certain  amount  of  work  in  the  gat  den  is  good  for 
inaii — and  also  good  for  onions. — Harriet. 

NIONS  like  level,  rich,  black, 
moist  land  in  perfect  condition 
and  with  sufficient  humus ;  how- 
ever, any  good  soil  will  do ;  do 
not  plant  on  rough,  poor  soil, 
nor  on  recently-turned  sod.  The 
crop  is  obtained  in  two  ways — 
from  seed  and  from  "sets" ;  the 
result  being  either  early  "bunch" 
onions,  or  "picklers,"  or  large 

onions,  or  sets  for  future  planting,  or  seed  to  sell — 
according  to  how  the  crop  is  managed. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  particularly  valuable  in  grow- 
ing onions,  says  the  writer  of  Farmers'  Bulletin 
No.  39.  One  hundred  pounds  of  nitrate  per  acre 
worked  in  before  planting,  and  two  or  three  dress- 
ings of  about  fifty  pounds  each  during  the  season, 
will  facilitate  rapid  growth  and  increase  the  yield 
if  there  is  enough  potash  and  phosphoric  acid  already 
in  the  soil.  When  onions  are  raised  from  seed  sown 
where  the  crop  is  to  mature,  the  drilling  should  be 
done  as  early  as  possible  in  the  spring.  Drills  are 
made  about  half  an  inch  deep  and  one  foot  apart 
for  wheel-hoe  cultivation  (about  two  feet  and  a  half 
for  horse  work).  When  plants  are  up,  thin  to  two 
inches  apart.  Every  other  plant  may  then  soon  be 
pulled,  bunched  and  sold  in  a  green  state ;  while  the 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


remaining  plants  may  be  left  until  maturity  (if  that 
is  considered  more  profitable). 

A  common  system  of  culture  is  to  plant  sets  in 
the  early  spring  instead  of  seed,  and  raise  this  vege- 
table to  bunch  for  the  early  market.  The  ground 
can  then  be  cleared  and  planted  with  a  second  crop 
of  something  else.  If  preferred,  mature  bulbs  may 
be  grown  from  the  sets,  and  this  method  will  insure 
success  in  almost  any  soil.  Spring-planted  sets 
should  be  covered  about  two  inches  deep,  and  spaced 
two  to  four  inches  apart  in  the  row,  the  latter  dis- 
tance being  best  if  you  want  large  onions. 

Another  plan  (called  the  "new  onion  culture") 
followed  to  a  considerable  extent  in  recent  years,  is 
to  sow  seeds  of  the  large  Spanish  or  Italian  varieties, 
such  as  Prizetaker,  etc.,  in  the  hotbed  and  then  trans- 
plant into  the  field  at  the  earliest  possible  date. 

(These  very  large 
varieties  need  this 
early  hotbed  start  to 
insure  maturity  in  the 
short  season  of  the 
North.  Farther  south 
they  may  be  started 
in  coldframes  or 
sown  in  the  fall  out- 
doors.) This  method 
is  fully  described  in 
Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  39.  Better  get  a  copy. 

A  favorite  plan  with  many  gardeners  is  to  plant 
sets  about  three  inches  deep  outdoors  in  late  August 
or  early  fall,  using  the  Egyptian  or  winter  varieties. 
This  method  insures  a  crop  of  green  onions  for 
bunching  at  the  earliest  possible  date.  (Onions  are 
very  hardy  in  the  ground  outdoors,  but  in  the  North 


HAND-WEEDING    IS    A    LABORIOUS  BUT 
NECESSARY    DETAIL 


THE   ONION  77 

it  helps  the  fall-sown  sets  to  mulch  them  when  the 
ground  freezes.) 

The  three  most  extensively  grown  of  American 
onions  produced  from  seed  sown  in  the  field  are 
Yellow  Danvers,  Silver  Skin  and  Red  Weathersfield. 

Still  another  method,  sometimes  practised  in 
raising  bunch  onions  for  spring,  is  to  sow  the  seed 
in  the  open  ground  in  late  September.  In  the  North 
the  rows  may  be  protected  by  scattering  a  little  mulch 
when  the  ground  freezes. 

A  Systematic  Business. — A  while  ago,  Mr.  B.  F. 
Stetser,  New  Jersey,  told  in  the  Farm  Journal  how 
the  onion  business  is  conducted  in  his  locality.  His 
words  are  well  worth  repeating,  so  I'll  give  them 
here : 

In  early  April  the  onion  seed  is  sown  in  rows 
one  foot  apart.  It  grows  until  the  middle  of  July, 
when  the  entire  crop  is  gathered.  The  stalks  are 
then  about  a  foot  high  and  the  onions  are  about  as 
large  around  as  a  penny.  Some  have  grown  faster 
and  larger  than  others.  These  are  called  "picklers," 
and  may  be  found  in  all  grocery  stores,  bottled  for 
table  use.  Picklers  are  worth  $1.60  to  $2.50  a  bushel, 
and  generally  about  600  bushels  are  gathered  to  an 
acre.  After  these  primes  or  picklers  have  been 
sorted  out,  the  culls  or  very  small  onions  (sets)  are 
placed  in  large  trays  and  remain  there  until  perfectly 
dry;  then  they  are  kept  till  spring,  at  which  time  they 
are  set  out  in  fields.  Men  are  employed  to  keep  all 
weeds  away  from  them  and  to  keep  the  ground  con- 
stantly loosened  up  all  around.  Level,  shallow  culti- 
vation is  best.  The  sets  that  were  planted  first  as 
seeds  more  than  a  year  ago,  have  by  July  4th  de- 
veloped into  good-sized  onions ;  and  men  go  down 
the  rows  with  diggers  which  throw  the  onions  out, 


HIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 


and  then  they  are  piled  up  and  are  ready  for  the 
"toppers."  The  toppers  cut  the  roots  and  stalks  off 
and  place  the  onions  in  baskets  and  sacks,  ready  for 
the  market.  All  of  the  onions  are  not  dug,  however; 
the  grower  allows  an  acre  or  two  to  keep  on  growing 
till  the  stalks  are  four  or  five  feet  high.  On  the 
very  top  large  seed-balls  grow,  and  when  ripe  they 
are  cut  from  the  onion — which  some  growers  allow 
to  remain  in  the  ground  until  the  next  year,  thus  get- 
ting a  double  crop  of  seed  from  each  onion.  Good 
ground  will  yield  about  400  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre 
and  300  or  more  bushels  of  big  onions  for  market. 

Marketing. — In  regard  to  "bunch"  or  early 
green  onions,  an  Illinois  grower  writes :  Don't  begin 
on  the  onions  till  they  are  large  enough  so  that  not 
more  than  five  or  six  are  required  to  make  a  bunch. 
See  to  it  that  the  bunches 
are  uniform  in  size,  and 
that  the  onions  are  clean 
and  bright  (see  picture). 
It  is  very  hard  to  fore- 
cast the  onion  market. 
Some  seasons  the  early 
market  is  the  best ;  at 
other  times  the  best 
prices  are  obtained  later. 
Styles  of  shipping  crates 
vary  in  different  localities. 
Here  we  use  a  flat  crate 
holding  ten  dozen  bunches ;  it  has  a  division  through 
the  center.  The  onions,  after  they  are  bunched  and 
tied,  are  cut  in  lengths  about  an  inch  shorter  than 
the  space  between  the  ends  of  the  crate  and  the 
division  board.  In  packing,  the  bunches  are  placed 
lengthwise  of  the  crate.  By  placing  the  butts  of  the 


BUNCHING."      HAVE    BUNCHES 
UNIFORM    IN    SIZE   AND 
ONIONS   CLEAN 


THE   ONION 


79 


DIGGING    ONIONS   WITH 
A   HAND    HARVESTER 


first  layer  snugly  against  the  end  of  the  crate,  and 

those    of    the    next    against    the    division    board,    an 

inch   space   is  left  between   each 

layer     of     onions.       This     space 

affords   ventilation   and  prevents 

heating. 

Matured  bulbs  or  large 
onions  are  left  in  the  field  until 
most  of  the  necks  (don't  wait 
for  all)  wither,  turn  yellow,  and 
the  tops  fall  over ;  then  they  are 
pulled  by  hand  or  dug  out  (see 
picture)  with  a  U-shaped  "onion- 
harvester"  attachment  which  is 
made  for  wheel  hoes,  thrown  into 
small  windrows  (three  or  four 
rows  in  one),  and  allowed  to  dry 
and  cure  for  several  days  (if  the  weather  is  wet, 
the  curing  may  have  to  be  done  in  shed  or  barn). 
Then,  with  shears  or  knife,  the  tops  are  cut  off 
about  half  an  inch  above  each  bulb  (see  illus- 
tration) ;  cutting  too  close  rots  the  onion,  too 
long  looks  untidy.  They  may  now  be  gathered  up, 

graded  into  dif- 
ferent sizes, 
packed  in  venti- 
lated baskets, 
barrels,  crates, 
etc.  (as  your  mar- 
ket  demands), 
and  sold  at  once. 
Or  they  may  be 
stored  (accord- 

TOPPING."      THE  TOPS  ARE  CUT  OFF  ABOUT      ™S 

HALF   AN    INCH   ABOVE   EACH    ONION  Oil    pagC    CO). 


8O  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

BULBLETS 

"Scullions"  or  "scallions"  are  onions  which  grow  a  thick 
neck  and  fail  to  bottom  out.  Inferior  seed  or  too  wet  a  soil 
may  cause  the  trouble. 

If  the  onion  tops  are  still  green  in  early  September,  roll 
a  barrel  along  the  rows  and  break  them  down.  This  helps  to 
check  growth  and  hastens  the  withering  process. 

One-half  ounce  of  onion  seed  is  required  for  about  100 
feet  of  drill.  About  four  pounds  per  acre.  Sets,  one  quart 
to  perhaps  forty  feet  of  row;  about  eight  bushels  or  more  to 
the  acre. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  onion  sets:  i,  onions  grown 
from  any  common  variety  of  seed,  and  not  allowed  to 
mature — thus  producing  little  white,  red  or  yellow  "sets,'' 
according  to  the  kind  of  seed  sown;  2,  sets  that  are  produced 
in  a  cluster  above  ground  on  the  stalk  end  of  a  peculiar 
variety  called  "Egyptian,"  "top"  or  "tree"  onion;  and,  3, 
"multiplier"  or  "potato  onion"  sets  which  are  produced  in  a 
cluster  underground  in  the  odd  way  common  to  this  distinct 
variety.  Each  kind  of  set,  if  planted,  of  course  keeps  and 
reproduces  its  own  characteristics. 

Winter  storage  of  onions  requires  experience,  and  even 
then  is  usually  attended  with  more  or  less  loss;  but  the  prac- 
tise often  pays.  Onions  may  be  wintered,  says  Farmers' 
Bulletin  No.  39,  by  two  different  processes,  namely,  by 
freezing  the  bulbs  and  keeping  them  in  this  state  all  winter, 
or  by  storing  them  in  shallow  bins  in  a  dry  apartment  (not 
in  a  cellar)  where  the  temperature  can  be  maintained  just 
above  the  freezing  point.  The  freezing  process  is  satisfactory 
only  in  the  extreme  North,  where  the  weather  is  cold  during 
the  entire  winter.  It  consists  in  simply  storing  the  bulbs  in 
the  barn  or  outbuilding,  allowing  them  to  freeze,  then  cover- 
ing with  hay,  straw,  or  bags,  and  letting  cover  remain  on  the 
bulbs  until  they  gradually  thaw  out  with  the  rising  tempera- 
ture of  the  spring.  A  layer  of  hay  must  be  thrown  on  the 
floor  or  bottom  of  the  bins  before  putting  in  the  onions. 
The  temperature  of  the  bins  should  not  run  above  32°  or 
below  15°  until  spring.  Too  severe  freezing  or  successive 
freezing  and  thawing  will  injure  the  bulbs.  Onions  not  thor- 
oughly dry  when  stored  will  sprout  and  spoil. 

Insects  and  diseases:  The  principal  enemies  of  the  onion 
are  the  onion  maggot,  a  tiny  white  worm  which  burrows  in 
the  bulb;  and  onion  smut  or  rot,  a  blackish  fungous  disease. 
For  the  first  the  most  effective  remedy  is  a  change  of  location 
of  the  onion  field  each  year.  This  may  be  followed  by  any 
of  the  treatments  recommended  by  John  B.  Smith  in  his 


THE   ONION 


8l 


Economic  Entomology:  "Keep  a  close  watch  for  the  first 
signs  of  maggots,  and  lift  out  and  destroy  infested  plants 
that  have  wilted  down.  Turn  away  the  earth  from  the  rows 
with  a  hand  plow  so  as  to  expose  the  root  system  in  part, 
then  broadcast  about  600  pounds  of  kainit  and  100  pounds 
nitrate  of  soda  per  acre;  turn  back  the  earth  to  the  plants. 
The  application  is  best  made  just  before  or  during,  or  imme- 
diately after,  a  rain  *  Bisulphide  of  carbon  injected 
below  the  root  system  has  been  used  with  success."  (On 
small  areas  only,  I  presume.  An  injector  or  large  syringe 
or  a  machine-oil  can  may  be  used  for  the  purpose. — J.  B. ) 
"It  should  be  used  when  the  soil  is  moist  but  not  water- 
soaked  *  *  *  Tobacco  dust,  soot,  wood  ashes,  etc.,  applied 
early  around  the  base  of  the  plants  *  *  Carbolic  acid 
emulsion  pour\ed  about  the  base  of  infested  plants."  (See 
Chapter  V  for  formula.)  Fall-plowing  is  a  help,  too — par- 
ticularly if  you  will  scatter  a  little  grain  on  the  field  occa- 
sionally afterwards  and  then  turn  on  a  flock  of  chickens. 
Smut  is  held  in  check  to  some  extent  by  rotation  of  crops, 
by  transplanting,  and  by  gathering  and  burning  infected 
specimens  and  refuse.  A  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  sulphur 
and  lime  sown  in  the  drills  with  the  seed  has  given  good 
results  as  a  remedy  for  the  disease.  Or  the  seed  might  be 
treated  with  formalin  as  advised  for  cabbage  in  Chapter  XI. 
Cutworms  are  sometimes  troublesome  in  the  onion  field  (see 
Chapter  XI  for  remedies).  Thrips  (tiny,  yellow  insects  that 
suck  the  juices  from  the  leaves)  may  be  killed  by  spraying 
with  whale-oil  soap  solution  or  kerosene  emulsion.  Downy 
mildew  sometimes  affects  onion  tops  on  low  ground.  Reme- 
dies: Destroy  diseased  onions  and  spray  plants  early  in  the 
season  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture — which  spray  would  also 
be  a  help  to  keep  smut  in  check. 


AN    INSECT    DESTROYER 


CHAPTER  VIII 
PEAS  AND  POTATOES 

"A  garden  is  the  personal  part  of  an  estate  —  that  area 
which  is  most  intimately  associated  with  the  private  life  of 
the  liomc.'' 


like  onions,  are  hardy,  and 
early  varieties  should  be  sown  in  the 
open  ground  just  as  soon  as  soil 
conditions  will  permit  —  in  March  or 
early  April  in  the  North,  and  in  De- 
/  fj;.  "  cember,  January  or  February  far- 

ther south  (according  to  latitude). 

A  too  rich  soil  is  not  good  for 
this  crop,  I  have  discovered,  for  an  excess  of  nitro- 
gen is  likely  to  cause  the  plants  to  "run  all  to  vines." 
A  light  clay  loam  is  desirable  if  extra  early  peas  are 
wanted.  Peas  are  nitrogenous  —  that  is,  they  have  the 
power  of  gathering  nitrogen  from  the  air. 

Rows  in  the  small  garden  may  be  about  three 
feet  apart  for  single  rows  of  tall-growing  varieties, 
that  are  to  be  supplied  with  some  support  for  the 
vines  to  climb  upon.  (Rows  of  dwarf  varieties 
might  be  narrower.)  A  method  often  practised, 
however,  is  to  plant  double  rows  (about  eight  inches 
apart)  with  aisles  about  three  feet  wide  (six  inches 
wider  would  be  better  for  horse  cultivation)  between 
each  two  double-rows.  The  vine  support  for  this 
double  row  is  placed  in  the  center  of  the  eight-inch 
space,  so  that  vines  in  both  rows  may  climb  on  the 
one  support  (and  thus  form  a  single  trellis  of  vines 
from  a  double  row  of  plants). 


84 


BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 


Early  plantings  of  peas  are  usually  covered  about 
three  inches  deep;  later  sowings,  when  the  ground  is 
drier,  are  often  covered  four  or  five  inches  deep  in 
mellow,  light  soil.  Personally,  I  favor  deep  planting 
for  all  peas  in  the  well-drained  garden — five  or  six 
inches  if  soil  conditions  will  permit.  If  this  is  prac- 
tised, it  is  safer  to  cover  the  seed  only  about  three 
inches  at  first,  putting  the  remainder  of  the  covering 
into  the  furrow  when  the  pea  sprouts  are  well  up — 
say  ten  or  twelve  inches  high.  This  double-covering 
precaution  insures  the  ability  of  the  sprouts  to  push 
through  to  the  surface,  and  is  especially  necessary 
in  heavy  soils.  One  quart  will  sow  about  100  feet  of 

single  drill ;  about 
one  and  a  half 
bushels  to  an  acre. 
Thinning  is  seldom 
necessary.  Open  the 
furrows  with  a  hoe 
or  a  plow  or  a  culti- 
vator rigged  as  a  fur- 
rower,  and  drop  the 
seed  by  hand  in  a 
continuous  row.  (Ex- 
tensive growers,  of 
course,  plant  with  a 
seed  drill.)  Use 
plenty  of  seed,  for 
rot,  cutworms,  etc.,  may  get  part  of  it. 

Keep  down  weeds.  When  the  plants  are  two 
or  three  inches  above  ground,  furnish  some  support 
for  them  to  climb  on — "brush,"  sticks,  wire-netting, 
wires,  cord,  or  whatever  is  handy.  Continue  to 
cultivate  until  the  crop  is  gathered,  then  pull  out  and 
remove  the  vines  and  trellis,  loosen  up  the  ground, 


HAND-SOWING    OF    PEAS  IN  FURROWS. 

('TIS     BETTER    TO    SOW    LARGE 

AREAS  WITH  A  SEED  DRILL) 


PEAS    AND   POTATOES  8$ 

and  plant  to  some  other  crop.  (NOTE:  Peas  require 
a  cool  season  and  do  not  do  well  in  the  hot  weather 
of  mid-summer ;  so  they  are  an  early-season  crop 
that  permits  of  a  following  crop  of  something  else — 
late  cabbage,  celery,  etc.  Successional  sowings  of 
peas  should  be  made  every  ten  days  until  June,  thus 
securing  a  regular  succession  of  bearing  vines.  In 
the  North,  dwarf  varieties  of  peas  are  sometimes 
sown  in  early  August  for  a  fall  crop.) 

Field  culture :  Let  me  say  that  the  gardener 
who  grows  peas  on  a  large  scale  for  market  or  can- 
ning factory,  as  a  rule  plants  and  handles  his  crop 
somewhat  differently  from  the  smaller  grower.  For 
one  thing,  he  generally  sows  the  seed  with  a  hand 
or  hors^e  planter,  thus  combining  in  one  operation 
the  opening,  seeding  and  covering  of  the  furrows. 
And  because  he  uses  a  machine  which  does  the  cover- 
ing all  in  one  dose,  he  is  apt  to  plant  the  seed  more 
shallow — so  as  to  make  sure  that  the  pea  shoots  will, 
without  double-covering,  be  able  to  push  through  the 
soil.  He  usually  plants  early  peas  about  two  inches 
deep ;  and,  later,  when  the  soil  is  drier,  he  plants 
about  three  inches  deep. 
For  another  thing,  he 
generally  spaces  the 
single  rows  farther 
apart  (about  five  feet 
for  the  very  tall-grow- 
ing varieties,  less  for  AN  INEXPENSIVE  CORD  SUPPORT  FOR 
the  dwarf  kinds),  SO  PEAS.  WIRE  POULTRY-NETTING 
that  the  vines  may  1S  BETTER 

have  room  to  sprawl  on  the  ground  and  thus  save  the 
great  bother  and  expense  of  furnishing  extensive  areas 
with  something  for  the  vines  to  climb  on.  Two  or 
three  cultivations  with  horse  implements  are  given, 


S6  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

and  then  the  vines  are  allowed  to  grow  as  they 
please.  After  the  vines  have  attained  size  and  have 
fallen  over,  they  need  turning  every  two  or  three 
days  or  they  may  rot  on  the  under  side ;  simply 
"flop"  them  gently  over  from  one  side  to  the  other, 
using  a  long,  round  stick  for  the  purpose. 

Picking  and  marketing :  Peas  are  at  their  best 
when  the  pods  have  filled  out  plump  but  have  not  be- 
come hard.  For  large  areas,  pickers  will  need  to  be 
hired;  they  should  be  instructed  not  to  tear  the 
vines,  to  pick  only  marketable  pods,  and  not  to  leave 
on  them  long  pieces  of  vine.  Each  variety  should 
be  kept  by  itself,  and  no  over-ripe  yellow-looking 
pods  should  be  packed.  Peas  are  sold  in  a  variety 
of  packages — in  bags,  ventilated  barrels,  baskets, 
crates,  etc.  For  long-distance  shipment  the  small 
package  is  preferable,  for  peas  in  bulk  are  likely  to 
heat  and  spoil  in  a  short  time.  A  round,  one-third- 
barrel  veneer  basket  is  a  favorite  Maryland  and  New 
Jersey  package  for  peas.  In  some  localities  near  can- 
ning factories,  peas  can  be  profitably  grown  under 
contract  for  the  factories. 

Varieties :  There  are  two  types  of  seed — the 
smooth  and  the  wrinkled.  There  are  short  and  tall 
varieties  of  both  types.  My  experience  is  that  wrin- 
kled kinds  are  superior  in  quality,  but  if  planted  very 
early  are  more  likely  to  rot  in  the  ground  than  the 
smooth  varieties.  Among  the  early  kinds,  the  fol- 
lowing are  well-known :  Nott's  Excelsior,  American 
Wonder,  Daniel  O'Rourke,  Little  Gem,  Gradus. 
Mid-season :  Shropshire  Hero,  Abundance,  Advancer, 
Heroine.  Late :  Telephone,  Stratagem,  Champion  of 
England,  Yorkshire  Hero,  Marrowfat. 

Insects  and  diseases  :  Often  the  tips  of  the  vines 
are  covered  with  little  green  aphis  (lice).  Any  of 


PEAS    AND   POTATOES  87 

the  sprays  for  lice  mentioned  in  Chapter  V  will  kill 
them.  The  following  two  methods,  however,  have 
been  used  with  better  success:  i.  On  a  very  hot  day 
the  lice  may  be  brushed  from  the  vines  into  the  paths 
and  covered  with  the  cultivator,  says  S.  A.  Johnson. 
This  method  does  not  work  well  where  the  ground  is 
lumpy,  for  the  lice  crawl  out  and  back  upon  the 
plants,  unless  the  dirt  is  sufficiently  firm  to  smother 
them.  2.  They  may  be  brushed  into  pans  which  are 
dragged  between  the  rows.  To  do  this,  have  galva- 
nized iron  pans  made  about  six  feet  long,  eighteen 
inches  wide  and  six  inches  deep.  Put  a  thin  layer  of 
kerosene  in  the  bottom.  Drag  the  pan  between  the 
rows  while  two  boys  brush  the  vines  toward  the  pan. 
There  should  be  sufficient  oil  in  the  pan  to  insure  the 
wetting  of  all  the  lice,  and  it  should  be  cleaned  and 
the  oil  renewed  whenever  necessary.  (A.  D.  Taylor, 
Massachusetts,  writes  that  he  has  had  best  success 
by  dusting  the  vines  when  wet  with  dew  with  dry 
hardwood  ashes.  Tobacco  dust  is  also  good.) 

Weevils  are  more  or  less  troublesome  to  both 
peas  and  beans.  'Tis  said  that  late  plantings  are  not 
so  likely  to  be  infested  by  weevils.  This  insect  eats 
out  the  heart  of  the  seed,  and  is  hatched  from  eggs 
that  are  laid  on  the  green  pod  while  it  is  growing 
on  the  vine.  There  is  no  means  known  to  prevent 
the  laying  of  the  eggs  or  the  entrance  of  the  larvae 
into  the  seed.  The  only  direct  means  of  fighting  the 
pest  is  to  kill  the  larvae  in  the  dry  seed  before  plant- 
ing, preferably  with  bisulphide  of  carbon.  Put  seed 
in  a  close  box,  throw  a  cloth  over  the  seed,  pour  the 
liquid  over  this  cloth,  and  put  on  the  lid.  Leave  un- 
disturbed for  forty-eight  hours.  Be  careful  not  to 
inhale  the  vapor  or  bring  a  lighted  lamp  near  it,  as 
it  is  poisonous  and  explosive.  Use  about  one  ounce 


88  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

to  four  bushels  of  seed.  Another  method  is  to  put 
the  seed  in  water ;  infested  seed  will  float  on  the  sur- 
face and  may  be  skimmed  off  and  burned. 

Cutworms  :     See  Chapter  XL 

Mildew  and  rust  occasionally  attack  this  crop, 
particularly  if  the  weather  is  unusually  damp.  If 
your  vines  begin  to  wilt  and  turn  yellow,  fungous 
disease  of  the  stem  near  the  ground  is  probably  to 
blame.  Spraying  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture  is  a 
preventive  of  these  troubles  if  done  early  enough. 

POTATOES. — The  ground  should  be  rich.  Many 
growers  secure  excellent  results  by  annually  broad- 
casting about  1,000  pounds  per  acre  of  a  complete 
fertilizer  containing  plenty  of  potash.  Stable  manure 
is  good  to  loosen  up  clay  soils,  but  where  the  potato 
scab  is  prevalent,  the  constant  use  of  large  quantities 
of  stable  manure  is  believed  to  increase  this  fungous 
trouble.  Potatoes  do  best  in  a  loose,  well-drained 
loam,  well  provided  with  humus.  A  clover  sod  or  a 
crop  of  cowpeas,  etc.,  plowed  under  in  the  fall,  makes 
an  ideal  field  for  me.  Owing  to  scab  and  other  po- 
tato peculiarities,  the  potato  grower  needs  to  prac- 
tise a  systematic  rotation  of  crops. 

Medium-sized  seed  is  best.  To  start  with,  buy 
northern-grown  seed;  then  each  year  at  digging 
time,  select  tubers  for  seed  from  the  best  hills. 
Avoid  "Jumboes"  or  "littles."  Treat  the  seed  with 
formalin  (see  Chapter  V)  to  prevent  scab.  Cellar- 
sprouted  tubers  are  not  so  good  for  seed  as  those 
which  are  unsprouted.  Tubers  sprouted  a  little  in 
sunlight  just  previous  to  planting  are  desirable  when 
extra  early  crops  are  wanted.  Just  how  to  cut  the 
seed  is  a  disputed  point,  but  those  who  cut  so  as  to 
leave  at  least  two  strong  eyes  on  each  seed  piece, 
will  make  no  mistake.  Some  people  discard  the 


PEAS   AND   POTATOES 


"seed-end"  of  each  tuber.     It  requires  ten  or  more 

bushels  of  potatoes  to  seed  one  acre. 

An  important  point  is  to  have  the  soil  in  perfect 

condition  before  planting.     Use  the 

harrow  thoroughly.     Rows,  for  horse 

cultivation,    should    be    about    three 

feet  apart.     Drop  seed  pieces  about 

fifteen    inches    apart ;    cover    about 

four   inches   deep;   shallower  plant- 
ing would  bring  the  crop  too  near 

the    surface   and   cause   portions   of 

the  •  tubers    to    sunburn    and    turn  | 

green.     The  two  illustrations  show 

the     results    of     wrong    and     right  i 

planting  depths.     There  are  several  \ 

good    machine    potato-planters    now  T00.SHALLOWPLANT. 

on  the  market ;  but  on  small  areas  ING,  RESULTING  IN 

it  is  customary  to  open  the  furrows    S™™RTN0E0D  ™™ ' 

with  a  plow  or  horse  cultivator  or       THE  SURFACE 

hand    hoe    and    drop    the    seed    by 

hand,  and  then  cover  the  seed  in  a  similar  manner. 
Cultivation  should  begin  soon  after  the  seed  is 

planted.  Go  diagonally  over  the  field  with  a  light 
spike-tooth  harrow,  to  break  up 
the  soil  crust  and  to  kill  any 
weeds  which  may  start.  Go  over 
the  field  again  within  a  week,  the 
other  way  diagonally.  These 
early  harrowings  greatly  lessen 
the  after  work  of  keeping  the 
field  clean.  When  the  potatoes 
are  several  inches  high,  a  culti- 
vator should  be  used  between 
rows.  If  the  ground  is  well- 
drained  and  if  the  seed  is  planted 


PLANTED    RIGHT- 
FOUR    INCHES    DEEP. 
RESULT  :     NO    SUN- 
BURNED  TUBERS 


9O  EIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

sufficiently  deep,  hilling-up  is  unnecessary.     One  hand 
hoeing  during  the  season  may  be  desirable. 

Insects  and  diseases  :  Every  few  weeks  I  spray 
the  vines  with  a  mixture  of  the  full-strength  Bor- 
deaux and  Paris  green.  Spraying  should  begin  when 
the  plants  are  about  four  inches  high  and  continue 
as  long  as  growth  lasts.  Thus  bugs,  early  and  late 
blight,  mildew,  rot,  etc.,  may  usually  be  kept  in  check 
with  one  combined  mixture.  The  potato-stalk  weevil 
which  sometimes  bores  in  the  stalks,  can  be  kept 
down  by  prompt  gathering  and  burning  of  vines 
when  the  crop  is  dug;  badly  infested  vines  should 
be  pulled  and  burned  at  any  time. 

Wireworms  (not  angleworms)  are  very  slender, 
yellowish,  hard-bodied  worms  that  are  often  trouble- 
some in  the  soil  ;  usually,  however,  these  pests  dis- 
like ground  which  has  been  heavily  enriched  with 
chemical  fertilizers  ;  'tis  said  that  fall-plowing,  fol- 
lowed by  a  spring  application  of  150  pounds  of  ni- 
trate of  soda,  and  1,000  pounds  of  kainit  to  the  acre, 
is  particularly  good  to  conquer  wireworms.  This 
should  be  sown  broadcast  and  harrowed  in  before 

the  crop  is  planted. 
(This  is  for  the  worms, 
mainly,  and  is  not  a 
balanced  fertilizer 
mixture.  Some  bone 
meal  or  phosphate 
might  be  added  to 

balance    the     food 


HAND-PLANTING    OF    POTATOES   ; 

OPENING    AND    CLOSING    THE  needs      of      tllC      plant). 

FURROWS    WITH    A    PLOW  Repeat         the         practise 

for  several  years,  and  turn  the  hens  on  the  field  when- 

ever possible  —  particularly  after  plowing  or  harrowing'. 

Varieties  :     Each  locality  has  its  favorites  ;  study 


PEAS    AND    POTATOES 


your  market's  requirements.  Among  the  best  early 
varieties  I  might  mention :  Early  Rose,  Early  Michi- 
gan, Early  Ohio,  Early  Norther,  Early  Bovee,  Early 
White  Ohio,  etc.  Among  the  best  late  or  main-crop 
varieties,  are :  Rural  New-Yorker,  Carman  No.  3, 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  Great  Divide,  Vermont  Gold 
Coin,  Nebraska,  Mammoth  Pearl,  Rose  Seedling, 
Burbank,  Uncle  Sam,  State  of  Maine,  etc. 

In  the  North  early  potatoes,  like  peas,  are 
planted  in  March  or  April  as  soon  as  the  ground 
becomes  dry  enough  (tu- 
bers will  rot  if  planted  in 
too  wet  a  soil).  Fall  plow- 
ing is,  of  course,  a  help 
to  early  planting;  so  is 
tile  draining.  The  plant  is 
sensitive  to  frost,  but 
usually  the  sprouts  take  so 
long  a  time  to  get  above 
ground  that  frost  danger 
is  mostly  over  before  they 
appear ;  at  a  critical  time, 
however,  'tis  possible,  I  find,  to  plow  or  hoe  a  little 
soil  on  to  the  tender  sprouts  and  thus  outwit  Jack 
Frost.  Main  or  late  crop  potatoes  are  planted  in  the 
North  any  time  between  about  May  loth  and  June 
ist.  In  Georgia  early  potatoes  are  planted  about 
February  ist,  I  am  told. 

"Second-crop  potatoes" :  In  some  of  the  south 
ern  states  a  double  cropping  system  is  practised,  the 
second  crop  being  grown  the  same  season  from  seed 
produced  by  the  first  crop.  For  full  particulars 
about  this  method,  write  to  the  United  States  De- 
partment of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  ask 
for  free  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  35. 


A    MACHINE    POTATO-PLANTER 

OPENS  THE  FURROWS,  PLANTS 

THE    SEED,  COVERS    IT    AND 

MARKS     THE    NEXT     ROW 


p2  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

Digging,  storing  and  marketing:  The  maturity 
and  death  of  the  vines  show  that  it  is  time  to  dig 
the  main  or  late  crop,  which  should  be  done  at  once 
if  the  tubers  seem  to  be  rotting;  but  if  they  are  keep- 
ing all  right  it  may  be  better  to  delay  digging  until 
later  in  the  fall  when  the  weather  is  cooler.  Early- 
market  tubers  are  dug  whenever  big  enough,  re- 
gardless of  the  vines.  In  the  fall  choose  a  dry  time 
to  do  the  digging,  if  possible.  They  should  be  dug 
by  hand  if  the  area  is  not  large — using  a  four-tined 
potato  hook  made  for  the  purpose.  Or,  if  the  area 
is  large,  there  are  excellent  horse-power  machine 
diggers  and  pickers  that  save  much  time  and  labor. 

In  harvesting,  as  well  as  in  storage,  potatoes 
should  be  exposed  to  light  as  little  as  possible. 
After  digging  I  advise  that  they  should  lie  on  the 
ground  only  long  enough  to  dry  thoroughly,  and 
then  be  gathered  up  into  slatted  bushel-crates,  piled 
on  the  wagon,  hauled  to  the  packing  or  storage  place 
and  sorted  into  grades  (a  machine  potato-sorter  is 
made  that  facilitates  this  work).  In  some  cases  the 
potatoes  are  sorted  in  the  field  and  packed  at  once 
in  barrels,  or  in  burlap  sacks  holding  no  to  120 
pounds.  Early  potatoes  are  sold  in  Maryland  and 
some  other  states  in  round  one-third-barrel  veneer 
baskets.  Late  potatoes  are  often  shipped  in  barrels 
with  the  tops  tied  with  burlap,  or  in  burlap  sacks,  or 
loose  in  carload  lots. 

In  storing  potatoes  a  dark,  dry  place  and  a  low 
temperature  is  required.  The  potato  tuber  is  unin- 
jured by  a  temperature  of  33°  F.  Warmth,  light 
and  moisture  favor  sprouting,  which  injures  potatoes 
both  for  planting  and  eating.  Storage  in  cellars 
is  very  common ;  outdoor  pits  are  sometimes  used 
(consult  Chapter  IX  in  regard  to  pits).  No  matter 


PEAS   AND   POTATOES  93 

how  stored,  the  winter  loss  from  shrinkage,  rot, 
etc.,  must  always  be  considered.  It  is  often  wiser 
to  sell  in  the  fall  if  a  fair  price  is  offered.  If  stored 
in  a  dugout  or  cellar,  put  the  potatoes  in  bins  made  of 
slats  (to  insure  ventilation)  and  not  more  than  five 
feet  deep. 

Indoor  cellars :  Generally  speaking  I  would  ear- 
nestly say  that  a  house  cellar  is  not  a  good  place  to 
store  large  quantities  of  vegetables — not  good  for 
the  folks  above,  and  not  good  for  the  vegetables  be- 
cause usually  too  warm.  However,  it  is  often  ad- 
visable to  have  small  lots  of  potatoes,  roots,  etc.,  in 
the  cellar.  Put  the  potatoes  in  bins.  Roots  should  be 
packed  in  or  covered  with  sand  to  keep  them  from 
drying  out  and  shriveling.  Ventilate  the  cellar,  and 
promptly  remove  any  vegetable  which  has  rotted. 
Keep  out  light,  frost  and  warmth. 


AFTER  RADISHES  ARE  PULLED,  SOME  MARKET  GARDENERS  SOAK  THEM 
IN    WATER    FOR    THREE   HOURS    TO    MAKE   THEM    EXTRA   CRISP 


CHAPTER  IX 
ROOT  CROPS 

BEET,    CARROT,    PARSNIP,    RADISH,    SALSIFY, 
TURNIP,  ETC. 

THE  long-rooted  varieties  require  a  deep,, 
loose  soil  for  their  best  development  (the 
round    or    stump-rooted    kinds    will,    of 
course,  do  well  in  shallower  soil).    Sub- 
"""""  soiling  or  tile  draining  are  great  aids  in 

growing  long-rooted  crops.  Plenty  of 
fertilizer  and  humus  is  necessary.  These 
crops  are  all  hardy  and  therefore  permit 
of  early  sowing.  Give  thorough  cultiva- 
tion and  hand  weeding.  Transplanting  is 
seldom  practised  with  these  vegetables. 

BEET. — There  are  two  kinds — the  early- 
season,  quick-growing,  round,  short-rooted  varieties, 
and  the  long-rooted,  long-season  ones.  The  former 
are  most  often  grown  of  late  years  for  market,  and 
may  be  sown  in  early  spring  as  an  early  crop  to  be 
followed  by  something  else,  or  in  July  or  early 
August  as  a  succession  crop  after  some  earlier  crop 
has  matured.  (The  long-rooted  kinds  are  generally 
sown  in  May  or  June  in  the  North,  and  grow  during 
the  entire  season.) 

Sow  in  drills  about  a  foot  apart  for  wheel-hoe 
cultivation ;  two  and  a  half  feet  for  horse  work. 
Thin  the  plants  gradually  to  about  five  inches  apart. 
Cover  seed  about  an  inch  deep.  The  seed  germi- 
nates slowly  and  a  preliminary  soaking  hastens 


96 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


germination.      One    ounce    of    seed    will    sow    about 
fifty  feet  of  drill ;  about  five  pounds  to  the  acre. 

Beet  "greens"  are  popular,  and  are  merely  young 
plants  that  are  only  partly  grown.  They  are  usually 
obtained  in  the  form  of  "thinnings"  from  the  rows, 
leaving  the  remaining  plants  to  mature.  Beet  greens 
are  sold  in  bunches,  leaves  and  all. 

Early  beets  are  marketed  in  various  ways — gen- 
erally tied  in  bunches  of  six  with  part  or  all  of  the 
top  attached.  Main-crop  beets  are  topped  and  packed 
in  barrels,  etc. 

Varieties :  Among  early  kinds,  these  are  my 
favorites :  Early  Egyptian,  Eclipse,  Crimson  Globe. 
Long  Blood  is  a  standard  late  variety. 

Insects  and  diseases :     These,  as  a  rule,  are  sel- 
dom troublesome.     Wireworms  in  the  soil  sometimes 
hurt  the  roots   (see  Chap- 
ter   VIII     for    remedies). 
Root    rot    is    occasionally 
serious ;    lime    applied    to 
the    soil    is    a    help.      Beet 
rust  and  leaf-spot  are  fun- 
gous   troubles    on    the 
leaves ;   remedy,   Bordeaux 
spray  applied  early.    Rota- 
tion of  crops  is  useful  in 
all  these  troubles. 
CARROT. — For   early  use,  plant  the   Short   Horn, 
Oxheart  and  similar  short-rooted  varieties   early  in 
the  spring.     Main-crop  carrots  for  winter  use  (Dan- 
ver's  Half-long,  Long  Orange,  etc.,)  may  be  sown  in 
the  North  in  early  June,  following  early  radishes,  etc. 
The  seed  germinates  slowly  (soaking  helps)  and 
the  young  plants  are  easily  ruined  by  weeds  or  neg- 
lect ;  but  when  once  established  the  crop  is  an  easy 


THE     HAND-THINNING    OF    ROOT 

CROPS    IS    AN   EARLY   AND 

IMPORTANT    DETAIL 


ROOT   CROPS  97 

one.  Sow  the  seed  thickly,  about  half  an  inch  deep; 
rows  and  thinning  the  same  as  for  beets.  One  ounce 
of  seed  will  sow  about  100  feet  of  drill ;  about  two  and 
a  half  pounds  required  for  an  acre.  Americans  eat 
very  few  carrots  and  the  market  demand  is  therefore 
rather  limited  and  uncertain.  Fungi  or  insects  are 
not  usually  troublesome. 

PARSNIP. — This  is  an  all-season  crop  and  should 
be  sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  soil  can  be 
worked.  Sown  and  thinned  the  same  as  carrots, 
except  that  one  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  about  200 
feet  of  drill ;  five  pounds  about  one  acre.  The  seed 
germinates  slowly.  Varieties :  For  shallow  soils 
plant  Early  Round  French,  but  if  your  soil  is  deep 
enough  plant  Hollow  Crown,  Guernsey  or  Half- 
long.  For  table  use,  parsnips  are  sweeter  and  better 
if  they  are  allowed  to  stay  in  the  ground  and  freeze — 
digging  them  in  late  winter  or  when  thaws  occur; 
for  immediate  use  a  portion  of  the  crop  might  be 
dug  and  stored  in  the  fall.  There  are  practically  no 
troublesome  insects  or  diseases.  Marketable  roots 
should  be  long,  straight  and  smooth,  and  not 
branched  (shallow  or  lumpy  soil  causes  branching, 
says  Farmer  Vincent). 

RADISH. — For  best  results  I  choose  a  sandy  loam, 
well  drained  and  enriched.  This  crop,  to  be  eatable 
or  marketable,  must  be  grown  quickly — pushed  along 
from  start  to  finish  so  as  to  be  crisp  and  juicy. 
Begin  to  sow  the  seed  outdoors  in  the  North  in 
March  or  April  (earlier  farther  south)  as  soon  as 
the  ground  can  be  worked.  For  wheel-hoe  cultiva- 
tion the  rows  should  be  about  a  foot  apart.  Sow  the 
seed  rather  thinly,  cover  about  one-half  inch  deep, 
and  thin  the  plants  to  about  three  inches  apart.  The 
seed  germinates  very  quickly  and  the  crop  is  ready 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


in  five  or  six  weeks,  usually.  Successional  sowings 
may  be  made  at  ten-day  intervals  until  June,  so  as  to 
have  radishes  in  good  con- 
dition all  through  the  radish 
season.  In  July  and  August 
this  crop  does  not  do  so 
well,  and  is  seldom  planted 
then.  One  ounce  of  seed 
should  sow  about  100  feet 
of  drill ;  ten  pounds  about 
one  acre.  Radishes  are  oc- 
casionally grown  in  hotbeds 
or  coldframes  for  very  early 
market. 

Winter  radishes  are  not 
much  in  favor  in  this  coun- 
try, but  those  who  like 
them  may  sow  the  seed 
about  September  ist,  and 
expect  a  crop  before  freezing  weather. 

Marketing :  After  radishes  are  pulled,  some 
market  gardeners  soak  them  for  three  hours  in 
barrels  of  water,  to  make  them  extra  crisp  (see 
full-page  picture  facing  this  chapter).  Next  they 
are  placed  on  a  wire-netting  rinsing  tray,  roots  all 
one  way;  third,  they  are  rinsed  with  a  stream  of 
fresh  water  (see  two  illustrations  in  this  chapter). 
Then  they  are  tied  in  bunches,  leaves  left  on,  and  are 
ready  to  sell  or  to  pack  for  shipment.  Different  ship- 
ping packages  are  used  in  different  localities. 

Varieties :  Among  the  best-known  early  short- 
rooted  kinds  are  Scarlet  Globe,  Round  Red,  White 
Turnip,  French  Breakfast,  Half-long  Deep  Scarlet, 
etc.  Early  long-rooted :  Early  Scarlet  Short  Top. 
White  Chinese  is  a  good  winter  variety. 


AFTER    SOAKING,    RADISHES 


TING    RINSING    TRAY,   ROOTS 
ALL    ONE    WAY 


ROOT   CROPS 


99 


Insects :  Usually  the  only  serious  pest  is  a  mag- 
got in  the  soil.  This  is  similar  to  the  onion  maggot 
mentioned  in  Chapter  VII,  and  the  remedies  would 
be  the  same  as  there  given.  Flea  beetles  sometimes 
bother  (see  Chapter  XI). 

SALSIFY. — This  is  also  called  "vegetable  oyster," 
and  is  often  used  by  Harriet  in  making  an  imitation 
oyster-stew.  It  is 
grown  the  same 
as  parsnip ;  it  is 
hardy  and  may 
be  left  in  the 
ground  over  win- 
ter or  stored  at 
once.  One  ounce 
of  seed  will  sow 
about  100  feet 
of  drill.  Mam- 
moth Sandwich 

Island  is  a  good  variety.     There  are  no  troublesome 
pests  so  far  as  I  know. 

TURNIP. — Usually  sown  as  a  fall  crop  in  July 
or  early  August;  sometimes  sown  as  an  early  mar- 
ket crop  very  early  in  the  spring.  Must  be  grown 
rapidly  or  the  roots  are  woody  and  bitter.  Sow  in 
the  spring  in  rows  the  same  as  radishes.  The  mag- 
got, wireworm  and  flea  beetle  are  the  principal  pests 
(see  elsewhere  for  remedies).  Thin  the  plants  to 
about  five  inches  apart  for  early;  wider  if  you  want 
big  roots. 

Instead  of  sowing  in  rows  in  July,  it  is  quite  a 
common  practise  to  broadcast  the  seed  on  clean, 
mellow  ground,  and  then  harrow  or  rake  it  in. 
Here's  a  better  way :  Have  the  seedbed  very  fine, 
then  roll  it ;  sow  the  seed  soon  after  a  rain,  and 


AFTER    A   THOROUGH    RINSING,  RADISHES 
ARE   THEN    READY    TO    BE   TIED   IN,  BUNCHES 


IOO  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

cover  by  lightly  rolling  the  ground.  Of  course  no 
subsequent  cultivation  is  given.  The  yield  is  often 
very  good  when  seed  is  sown  in  this  way,  but  row 
culture  is  usually  more  certain  and  satisfactory. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  about  200  feet  of  drill. 
Use  about  two  pounds  to  the  acre,  either  broadcast 
or  in  rows.  For  horse  cultivation  space  the  rows 
two  feet  and  a  half  apart.  Early  turnips  are  some- 
times bunched  like  beets,  or  they  may  be  topped 
and  sold  in  barrels,  baskets,  etc.  Consult  your  mar- 
kefs  requirements.  The  late  crop  should  be  gath- 
ered before  hard  freezing  begins,  topped  and  sold  or 
stored. 

Varieties :  Purple-top  Strap-leaf,  Early  Milan, 
Flat  Dutch,  Early  Munich,  Purple-top  White  Globe, 
etc. 

SOME  OTHER  ROOT  CROPS. — Sugar  beets  are 
grown  in  some  localities,  under  contract,  for  beet- 
sugar  factories,  and  the  varieties  used  are  known  to 
be  especially  rich  in  sugar  contents ;  they  are  grown 
the  same  as  other  beets,  but  are  sold  by  the  ton. 
Mangel-wurzel  is  a  mammoth  species  of  coarse 
beet  which  grows  partially  above  ground  and  is  well 
liked  as  a  stock  food.  Rutabaga,  or  Swedish  turnip, 
is  usually  grown  as  a  food  for  stock.  None  of  the 
three  foregoing  varieties  are,  strictly  speaking,  gar- 
den vegetables. 

DIGGING  AND  STORING  ROOT  CROPS. — Roots  may 
be  dug  out  or  pulled  out;  but  if  the  crop  is  large 
or  the  roots  long,  I  find  that  it  is  easier  to  plow 
them  out.  For  storing  or  shipping  in  the  fall,  the 
roots  should  dry  in  the  sun  until  the  soil  will  shake 
from  them,  and  the  tops  should  be  cut  off,  about 
an  inch  above  the  crown.  Then  haul  to  pit,  cellar 
or  packing  house.  Be  careful  not  to  bruise  when 


ROOT   CROPS  IOI 

digging  or  handling;  bruised  or  mutilated  roots  will 
not  keep  long. 

Storing :  The  construction  of  a  Colorado-style 
storage  house  or  dugout  is  simple,  says  E.  R.  Ben- 
nett. An  excavation  is  made  in  the  ground,  of  the 
required  dimensions  for  the  cellar  and  of  a  sufficient 
depth  to  give  soil  for  covering  the  top.  A  frame  of 
posts,  timbers  and  rafters  is  then  made  as  for  a 
building.  This  frame  is  covered  with  wire-netting 
or  brush.  Over  this  two  or  three  feet  of  straw  is 
placed  and  this  is  covered  with  soil  to  a  depth  of 
six  to  twelve  inches.  Ventilator  shafts  are  put  in  at 
regular  intervals  to  give  air  circulation  and  keep  the 
temperature  from  rising  too  high.  Some  of  these 
dugouts  have  an  alley  through  the  center  with  doors 
at  either  end  so  that  the  wagor  may  be  driven 
through.  Double  doors  with  a  ;dcai/,  air-space  be- 
tween are  used  as  a  protection  against  irost.  It 
roots  or  potatoes  are  stored  while  ;thc  -weathe/  is 
yet  warm,  the  ventilators  and  abciS  a-v  left  "open 
nights  to  give  a  circulation  of  cold  air,  and  closed 
during  the  heat  of  the  day.  In  this  way  the  bins 
are  gradually  cooled  down,  and  by  giving  close  at- 
tention to  the  temperature  the  whole  mass  is  kept 
as  cool  as  possible  without  danger  from  frost.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  considerable  care  has  to  be  exercised 
to  prevent  the  temperature  of  the  dugout  from  ris- 
ing from  the  heat  developed  by  the  stored  roots  or 
potatoes.  This  is  regulated  by  opening  and  closing 
the  ventilator  shafts  as  the  case  demands.  (In  a 
wet  climate  it  would  be  necessary  to  have  some  kind 
of  water-proof  roof  on  top  of  the  soil,  to  keep  out 
rain,  etc. — J.  B.) 

Outdoor  "pits" :  These  differ  from  dugouts  in 
that  they  are  not  usually  sunken  in  the  ground.  They 


102  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

are,  as  a  rule,  made  on  the  surface  as  follows  :  Piles 
of  topped  and  unbruised  roots  (or  potatoes)  are 
made  on  a  high,  well-drained  piece  of  ground.  These 
piles  may  be  almost  any  shape  or  size  (but  it  is 
wise  not  to  have  the  piles  large  enough  to  heat  when 
covered  —  better  make  several  separate  pits  when  the 
quantity  to  be  stored  is  large,  or  one  long  pit  divided 
at  four-foot  intervals  with  a 
wall  of  earth  so  as  to  make 
separate  compartments).  The 
accompanying  picture  shows 
how  to  make  a  pit.  On  top  of 
the  ground  comes  a  shallow 
layer  of  straw,  then  a  cone  of 


AN    OUTDOOR    ROOT-PIT 


feet  at  the  base,  then  a  layer  of  straw  about  six 
inches  ci»e<^p  \v  1'icn  matted  down,  and,  lastly,  a  layer 
of  soil  about  a  foot  in  depth  shoveled  up  from 
arotrnd  the  pit.  In  the  center  of  each  pit  or  com- 
partment, 'is  an  upright  stick  to  which  is  tied  a  wisp 
of  straw  arranged  as  a  ventilator.  (In  very  severe 
climates  it  may  be  necessary  to  put  a  layer  of  man- 
ure on  top  of  the  soil  layer,  or  another  layer  each  of 
straw  and  soil.)  Special  remarks:  Do  not  cover 
the  pit  all  at  once.  First  put  on  the  straw,  with  a 
board  or  two  to  hold  it  in  place  ;  this  will  protect 
against  light  frosts.  As  the  weather  gets  colder, 
throw  on  an  inch  or  two  of  soil  —  adding  soil  as  the 
winter  advances  until  the  pit  is  fully  protected.  «  A 
house  cellar  is  not  a  suitable  place  to  store  more  than 
a  few  potatoes  (in  bins)  and  a  few  roots  (in  sand). 


CHAPTER  X 
LETTUCE.     CELERY 

Good  "luck"  with  these  crops  means  rich,  moist  soil,  good 
seed,  and  plenty  of  clboiv  grease. — Tim. 

ETTUCE  is  hardy,  and  there- 
fore the  first  sowing  outdoors 
may  be  made  just  as  early  in 
the  spring  as  the  ground  can 
be  worked.  Successional  sow- 
ings may  thereafter  be  made 
every  two  weeks,  to  insure  a 
constant  supply  for  the  table 
or  market.  I  like  the  rows  about  fifteen  inches  apart 
for  wheel-hoe  cultivation;  about  two  and  a  half  feet 
apart  for  horse  work.  Sow  in  drills  and  cover 
about  half  an  inch  deep.  Thin  the  plants  gradually, 
using  the  thinnings  for  table  use  as  far  as  possible, 
until  the  plants  stand  about  ten  inches  apart  (more 
or  less,  according  to  the  variety  grown  and  the  size 
of  head  wanted).  The  best  soil  for  early  lettuce  is 
a  light,  loose  loam,  made  very  rich.  Applications  of 
nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  are  helpful  to  the 
growing  crop  (see  Chapter  IV).  One-quarter  ounce 
of  seed  will  sow  about  100  feet  of  drill. 

The  foregoing  is  the  easy  small-garden  method 
of  growing  lettuce  without  transplanting.  North- 
ern market  gardeners,  however,  usually  prefer  to 
raise  early  plants  in  hotbeds,  transplant  to  cold- 
frames,  and  then  transplant  to  the  field.  Or  some- 
times they  sow  the  seed  outdoors  in  September,  trans- 
plant in  October  to  coldframes  for  wintering  (spac- 
ing the  plants  about  five  inches  apart),  and  then, 


1O4  BIGGLE    GARDEN    BOOK 

in  the  early  spring,  transplant  the  wintered  lettuce 
from  coldframes  to  field;  or  sometimes  outdoor 
August-sown  plants  are  moved  to  frames  and  forced 
along  for  Thanksgiving  or  early  winter  market.  Or, 
for  the  later  crops  of  head  lettuce,  they  may  sow  the 
seed  in  drills  outdoors  in  early  spring,  and  then,  in- 
stead of  thinning  the  lettuce,  transplant  it  to  a  nicely- 
prepared  field  where  it  can  be  set  the  required  dis- 
tance apart.  Market  gardeners  have  a  custom,  also, 
of  transplanting  a  head  of  lettuce  between  each  two 
early  cabbages  in  a  field  row — the  lettuce  is  soon 
off  and  then  the  cabbages  can  have  all  the  space. 

Hotbed  lettuce,  in  the  North,  is  usually  started 
in  February  and  transplanted  in  about  four  weeks 
(see  Chapter  III  for  cultural  directions).  In  the 
South  it  may  be  started  several  weeks  or  months 
earlier,  according  to  latitude.  One  ounce  of  seed 
should  furnish  about  1,000  plants;  they  are  moved 
to  the  open  ground  in  March  or  early  April.  The 
faster  the  growth,  the  more  crisp,  tender  and  sweet 
the  lettuce  will  be.  Some  gardeners  facilitate  the 
"heading"  process  by  drawing  up  the  outer  leaves 
around  the  plant  and  securing  them  in  place  with  a 
string.  (NOTE:  Very  early  lettuce  is  often  grown 
entirely  in  frames  or  greenhouses,  without  trans- 
planting outdoors.) 

Summer  and  fall  lettuce :  Most  varieties  of  let- 
tuce do  not  do  welHn  hot  weather;  therefore  if  you 
want  summer  lettuce  you  should  select  the  kind 
called  Cos — a  distinct  type  (also  known  as  "celery 
lettuce,"  or  Romaine).  For  fall  lettuce  any  of  the 
spring  varieties  may  be  planted. 

Varieties  :  Early  Curled  Simpson,  Black  Seeded 
Simpson,  Grand  Rapids,  etc.,  are  good  extra-early 
kinds  of  the  curled  or  leaf  variety.  Tennis  Ball, 


LETTUCE.      CELERY  105 

Boston  Market,  Iceberg,  Hanson,  etc.,  are  good  head 
or  "cabbage"  kinds,  but  do  not  mature  quite  so 
quickly. 

Marketing  lettuce :  My  experience  tells  me  that 
lettuce  with  a  blanched  heart  sells  best  in  most  mar- 
kets, and  is  in  more  or  less  demand  all  the  year 
around.  Lettuce  in  the  field  is  cut  off  close  to  the 
ground  and  taken  to  the  packing  house,  where  the 
untidy  outer  leaves  are  taken  off.  A  favorite  pack- 
age for  lettuce  in  Maryland,  etc.,  is  the  round, 

veneer    basket    with    a    cover  

(the    cover    is    not    shown    in 
illustration).      Ventilated    bar- 
rels,   crates,    etc.,    are    used    in 
some    localities.       Lettuce    for 
shipment    should   be    quite    dry 
when    packed.       Lettuce     for    a     A  BASKET  OF  MARYLAND 
near-by    fancy   trade    is    some-     HEAD  ^C^ED^^ 
times   grown  in  two-inch  pots, 
and  marketed  in  that  way — thus  insuring  freshness. 

Insects  and  diseases :  Out-of-doors  the  lettuce 
crop  is  seldom  troubled  by  bugs  or  fungi.  Cutworms 
sometimes  bother  (see  Chapter  XI).  Under  glass 
"damping  off"  (sometimes  called  "drop"  or  "wilt") 
is  a  common  trouble  (see  Chapter  II).  Stem  and 
leaf  rot  may  usually  be  prevented,  where  prevalent, 
by  covering  the  greenhouse  or  hotbed  soil  with  two 
inches  of  sand  which  has  been  sterilized  by  being 
treated  with  boiling  water.  Half-strength  Bordeaux 
mixture  might  be  sprayed  on  the  plants  when  they 
are  little,  as  a  preventive. 

CELERY. — For  ordinary  home  use  celery  can  be 
grown  on  almost  any  kind  of  rich  garden  soil,  but 
for  the  best  market  success  deep  alluvial  or  re- 
claimed swamp  ground  is  the  kind  to  choose.  At 


IO6  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

Kalamazoo,  Mich.,  famous  for  its  celery,  the  soil  I 
saw  in  the  fields  is  black,  moist,  and  filled  with 
humus ;  it  lies  very  low  and  is  drained  by  a  network 
of  open  ditches. 

For  the  early  crop  in  the  North,  sow  seed  in 
hotbeds  about  March  ist  (earlier  in  the  South),  and 
transplant  to  coldframes  about  April  loth  (see 
Chapter  III  for  cultural  details).  The  seed  germi- 
nates very  slowly  and  the  young  plants  are  weak ; 
plant  seed  rather  thickly  and  see  that  the  soil  does 
not  dry  out  until  plants  are  well  up.  The  plants  may 
be  moved  to  the  open  ground  in  May  or  early  June. 
There  is  not  a  large  demand  for  very  early  celery. 

For  the  late  crop,  seed  may  be  sown  outdoors 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 
The  soil  should  be  fine  and  moist.  Sow  in  drills 
about  a  foot  apart  and  cover  about  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  deep,  afterward  firming  the  soil  by  rolling, 
by  pressing  with  the  feet,  or  by  tamping  with  the 
back  of  a  hoe-blade.  If  the  weather  is  very  dry, 
germination  may  be  hastened  by  watering  the  seed- 
bed and  then  covering  the  rows  with  burlap  until  the 
plants  are  up.  Start  the  hoe  as  soon  as  the  rows 
can  be  seen.  In  early  July  dig  the  plants,  shear  or 
cut  off  a  portion  of  the  tops  (read  Chapter  III), 
and  transplant  to  rows  for  horse  cultivation  about 
three  feet  apart  for  the  dwarf  varieties  or  four  feet 
for  the  tall  kinds,  plants  spaced  about  six  inches 
apart  in  the  row.  Be  sure  to  firm  the  earth  about 
the  roots.  (For  small-garden  culture,  or  where  boards 
are  used  for  blanching  the  crop,  the  rows  may  be 
closer  together — say  two  or  two  and  one-half  feet 
apart.  In  fact,  in  a  system  called  the  "new  celery 
culture,"  it  is  advocated  that  plants  should  be  set 
very  close  together — about  6x8  inches  apart — so 


LETTUCE.       CELERY 


107 


that  the  leaves  will  meet  and  the  plants  blanch  them- 
selves ;  this  method,  however,  usually  requires  irri- 
gation to  make  it  a  success;  the  "self-blanching" 
varieties  are  used,  and  the  outer  sides  of  the  patch 
are  covered  with  boards.) 

Blanching :  Early  or  summer  celery  is  usually 
blanched,  after  the  first  "handling,"  by  standing 
twelve-inch-wide  boards  close  against  each  side  of 
the  celery  plants,  the  top  edges  hooked  or  cleated 
so  as  to  be  about  three  inches  apart.  The  boards 
should  be  about  twelve  feet  long,  and  are  put  on 
when  the  celery  is  about  a  foot  high.  I  think  that 
the  board  method  is  better  than  earth  for  summer 
blanching,  because  celery  covered  entirely  with  earth 
is  more  liable  to  rot  or  rust  in  warm  weather.  This 
blanching  process  requires  two  or  three  weeks  after 
the  boards  are  put  on.  Then  the  plants  can  be  dug, 
as  wanted,  and  sold  or  used.  (NOTE:  In  very  small 
gardens  celery  may  easily  be  blanched  by  slipping 

a  piece   of   tile   over   each , 

plant.) 

The  late  crop  of  cel- 
ery is  usually  blanched  by 
hilling  earth  gradually  up 
to  the  plants  on  both  sides 
of  the  row.  This  kind  of 
blanching  is  not  begun  un- 
til the  hot  summer  weather 
is  over,  the  weather  cool, 
and  the  plants  well  grown. 
The  first  part  of  the 
blanching  process  is 
called  "handling."  This, 
in  plain  English,  means 
to  gather  together  with 


A    HORSE-DRAWN   CELER Y-HILLER 

IS    A    GREAT    HELP    IN    THE 

BLANCHING  PROCESS 


IO8  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

the  hands  a  plant's  sprawling  leaves  and  stalks, 
bring  them  together  in  compact,  upright  form,  and 
then  hold  them  in  place  by  drawing  up  and  compact- 
ing enough  soil  around  the  clump  of  stalks.  In  about 
two  weeks  more  earth  is  drawn  up  around  the  new 
growth.  Later,  a  third  hilling-up  may  be  required ; 
this,  and  the  second  one,  is  easily  accomplished  in 
large  fields  by  using  a  horse-drawn  celery-hiller 
sold  especially  for  the  purpose  (or  a  one-horse  plow 
might  be  used,  or  a  cultivator  rigged  to  throw  soil 
toward  both  sides).  The  work  must  be  done  when 
the  soil  and  celery  plants  are  dry,  as  hilling  or  hand- 
ling in  a  moist  condition  favors  rust  or  rot,  or  both. 

All  celery  requires  some  kind  of  blanching — even 
the  so-called  "self -blanching"  varieties  need  the  shade 
of  the  extra-close  planting  I  mentioned  a  few  para- 
graphs back. 

Varieties :  White  Plume  and  Golden  Self- 
Blanching  are  good  early  kinds.  Kalamazoo,  Golden 
Dwarf,  Boston  Market,  Giant  Pascal,  etc.,  are  ex- 
cellent fall  and  winter  varieties.  I  do  not  like  the 
Giant  Pascal  type  so  well  as  the  smaller  kinds. 

Packing  and  marketing :  Celery  when  fully 
grown  and  blanched,  is  dug,  and  prepared  for  mar- 
ket by  trimming  off  the  roots  so  as  to  leave  the  short 
solid  stem.  The  tops  are  never  cut,  but  any  loose  or 
untidy  outside  stems  and  leaves  may  be  removed. 
The  stalks  when  thus  dressed,  and  washed,  are  made 
into  bundles  of  one  dozen  each,  says  W.  N.  Hutt, 
Maryland,  and  tied  twice  with  light  tape  to  hold  the 
stalks  together  in  position.  These  bundles  are  packed 
into  a  ventilated  crate,  which  in  Maryland  is  22  x  24 
inches  and  twenty  inches  high.  The  crate  is  packed 
full,  placing  the  stalks  in  upright  position.  The  crate 
will  hold  ten  or  a  dozen  bundles  of  ordinary  size. 


LETTUCE.    CELERY 


109 


In  some  localities  celery  is  shipped  in  crates  where 
the  bunches  are  laid  flat  and  the  tops  lapped. 

Storing :  Celery  will  withstand  considerable 
light  frost,  but  its  keeping  qualities  and  flavor  will 
be  injured  by  hard  freezing. 

Large  northern  growers  handle  the  last  of  the 
crop  by  the  method  known  as  trenching.  The  celery 
is  first  partially  banked  with  earth  and  allowed  to 
remain  where  _ 
grown  so  long  as 
there  is  no  dan- 
ger from  heavy 
frosts.  Then 
comes  the  work 
of  digging  the 
plants  to  be 
trenched.  Trench- 
ing will  be  great- 
ly facilitated  by 
setting  up  two 
parallel  lines  of 
twelve  -  inch 
boards,  about 
eighteen  or 
twenty  inches  apart,  between  which  the  dug  celery  is 
packed  with  the  roots  embedded  in  the  soil.  When 
the  space  between  the  boards  is  filled,  soil  is  thrown 
up  on  the  outside  to  the  tops  of  the  boards.  The 
boards  are  then  lifted  out  and  used  again,  the  soil 
being  allowed  to  come  in  direct  contact  with  the 
celery.  These  trenches  are  usually  made  only  fifty 
or  sixty  feet  in  length  and  are  small  enough  to  per- 
mit the  removal  of  a  whole  trench  at  one  time.  As 
colder  weather  approaches,  the  celery  is  either  re- 
moved and  marketed  or  a  covering  of  boards,  straw 


GATHERING    BOARD-BLANCHED  CELERY   NEAR 
SANFORD,  FLA. — 1,200   CRATES  TO  THE  ACRE 


TTO  HIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

or  corn  fodder  is  placed  over  the  tops  for  pro- 
tection. 

Small  quantities  of  celery,  for  table  use,  can  be 
removed  from  these  trenches  from  time  to  time,  and 
stored  with  the  roots  in  earth  in  the  coolest  part  of 
the  house  cellar. 

Insects  and  diseases:  Insects  seldom  trouble 
the  celery  crop  much,  although  sometimes  celery 
caterpillars  (pale  green,  with  black  and  white  marks) 
are  bothersome.  Buhach  will  kill  them ;  some  grow- 
ers pick  them  off  by  hand.  Blight,  leaf  spot,  and 
rust  often  occur,  but  may  be  largely  prevented  by 
spraying  half-strength  Bordeaux  mixture  on  the 
plants  in  the  seedbed;  the  spray  may  be  repeated  at 
intervals  if  necessary  when  the  plants  are  trans- 
planted to  the  field.  Rot  has  already  been  mentioned 
(see  Blanching).  Pithy  stalks  generally  result  from 
too  much  heat  and  not  enough  moisture  when  the 
young  plants  are  growing  in  the  field;  inferior  seed 
is  also  often  the  cause. 


CHAPTER  XI 
CABBAGE  AND  CAULIFLOWER 

ALSO  BROCCOLI,  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS,  KALE,  KOHLRABI 

EARLY  cabbage  should  be  started  in  hot- 
beds about  February   ist  in  the  North 
(earlier  in  the  South),  and  transplanted 
to  coldframes   in  about  a  month.     Do 
not    force    cabbage    along   too   rapidly; 
aim  to  have  short,  stocky  plants  rather 
than  tall,  spindling  ones.     (See  Chapter 
III    for    cultural    directions.)      If    well 
hardened  off,  the  plants  can  usually  be 
transplanted  to  the  open  ground  early 
in  April.     A   heavily-fertilized   sandy  or   clay  loam, 
well  drained  and  fine  and  mellow,  is  good.     Applica- 
tions of  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  are  a  help 
in  hurrying  the  plants  along  in  the  field   (see  Chap- 
ter IV).    The  cabbage  is  a  gross  feeder  and  requires 
large  quantities  of  manure,   fertilizer  and  moisture. 
For  hoe  cultivation  the  rows  may  be  about  two  feet 
apart;  for  horse  work  about  two  and  one-half  feet. 
Space  the  plants   about   sixteen  inches  apart    (more 
or   Jess,   according  to  variety;    Early   Jersey   Wake- 
field-  ~the  favorite  very  early  kind — is  sometimes  set 
only  fourteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  while  Early 
Summer,  Succession,  All-Head,  All-Seasons,  etc.,  do 
better  at  eighteen  inches).    Young  cabbage  plants  are 
sometimes  used  for  greens,  and  are  then  called  "col- 
lards"  ;  the  true  collard,  however,  is  a  kind  of  kale 
much  grown  in  the  South. 


112 


HIGGLE  GARDEN   BOOK 


Late  cabbage  plants  are  usually  grown  in  a  seed- 
bed outdoors,  planting  the  seed  in  April  or  early 
May  in  the  northern  states,  in  rows  about  a  foot 
apart.  Cover  seed  about  half  an  inch  deep.  One 
ounce  of  seed  will  sow  about  300  feet  of  drill  and 
should  furnish  about  2,000  plants.  Transplant  to  the 
field  in  June  or  early  July — as  a  succession  crop  to 
follow  some  earlier  vegetable.  Late  cabbage  may  be 
planted  on  heavier,  wetter 
soils  than  should  the  early 
crop ;  some  of  the  best 
late  cabbage  fields  I  have 
ever  seen  were  on  black- 
looking  bottom  lands  that 
would  do  equally  well  for 
celery.  Field  rows  for 
large,  late  varieties  should 
not  be  closer  than  two 
and  one-half  feet ;  plants 
about  two  feet  apart  in 
the  row.  (Extensive 
growers  often  set  cab- 
bage 2^  x  2^  feet,  and 
cultivate  with  a  horse  both 
ways — thus  saving  much 
hand  hoeing.)  If  cab- 
bage heads  show  signs  of 
bursting,  pull  the  head  enough  to  break  some  of  the 
roots.  This  helps  to  stop  excessive  growth.  Dan- 
ish Ball,  Late  Flat  Dutch,  Drumhead,  Surehead,  etc., 
are  well-known  late  varieties  for  June  setting  (if  the 
setting  is  delayed  until  early  July,  the  crop  will  be 
more  likely  to  mature  if  you  use  second-early  varie- 
ties such  as  Succession,  All-Head,  etc.).  Red  cab- 
bage and  Savoy  cabbage  are  liked  by  some  people. 


EARLY   JERSEY  WAKEFTELD  IS  A 
FAVORITE   EARLY    CABBAGE 


CABBAGE   AND   CAULIFLOWER  113 

Marketing  cabbage :  A  considerable  portion  of 
the  late  cabbage  crop  is  handled  in  bulk.  Some 
growers  sell  by  the  ton  to  kraut  factories.  The  best 
carrier  for  shipping  early  cabbage  is  the  barrel-sized 
crate. 

Storing  late  cabbage :  It  is  a  mistake  to  delay 
harvesting  the  winter  crop  until  the  outer  leaves 
have  been  frozen  hard  several  times  and  when  there 
is  danger  of  unbroken  winter  weather,  says  Penn- 
sylvania Bulletin  No.  147.  In  this  state  it  is  not  safe 
to  postpone  harvesting  later  than  the  tenth  of  No- 
vember. Various  methods  of  storing  winter  cabbage 
are  used  with  good  success.  The 
Danish  Ball  is  the  best  keeper  that 
can  be  grown.  In  large  producing 
districts,  frost-proof  storage  houses 
are  designed  and  built  especially  for 
the  purpose.  Many  growers  store  in 
barns  or  caves.  Some  pile  or  store 
the  untrimmed  heads  in  protected 
spots,  as  along  fences,  covering  after  QNE  WAY  op 
severe  weather  begins  with  straw,  STORING  CABBAGE 
corn  stalks,  leaves  or  other  coarse  ~ALL.RAROUNDS 
material.  Burying  is  a  favorite  plan 
with  some,  and  there  is  no  better  way  to  preserve 
cabbage  in  a  fresh,  crisp  condition :  Line  up  on  a 
well-drained  part  of  the  ground  three  rows  of  heads, 
placed  close  together,  turned  upside  down.  Then 
with  a  team  and  plow,  draw  two  furrows,  throwing 
soil  as  much  as  possible  on  the  cabbage.  Then  finish 
with  shovels,  placing  five  or  six  inches  of  soil  on  the 
heads.  After  the  ground  is  frozen  to  the  depth  of 
an  inch  or  two,  cover  with  strawy  manure  to  the 
depth  of  several  inches. 

Insects  and  diseases :   Root  maggots  are  a  serious 


114  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

pest ;  consult  Chapter  VII  for  general  remedies.  One 
of  the  most  successful  remedies  (for  cabbage  or 
cauliflower)  is  the  use  of  pads  of  tarred  paper.  The 
pads  are  cut  in  a  hexagonal  form  in  order  to  econo- 
mize the  material,  and  a  thinner  grade  of  tarred 
paper  than  the  ordinary  roofing  felt  is  used.  The 
dotted  lines  in  the  illustration  represent  slits  or  cuts 
in  each  piece.  Pads  should  be  about  two  and  one- 
half  inches  in  diameter;  one  thickness  of  paper  is 
enough.  By  having  a  steel  die  made,  the  complete 
pads  can  be  quickly  and  easily  punched 
out.  The  pads  should  be  placed  about 
the  plants  at  the  time  of  transplanting 
to  the  open  ground.  To  place  one, 
bend  it  slightly,  to  open  the  slit,  then 
slip  it  on  the  plant,  the  stem  enter- 
ing the  slit,  after  which  spread  the 
pad  out  flat,  and  press  the  points  formed  by  the 
star-shaped  cut  snugly  around  the  stem.  When  in 
place,  the  pad  rests  flat  on  the  ground,  completely 
encircling  the  stem  and  fitting  tightly  around  it — 
the  idea  being  to  prevent  the  root-maggot  fly  from 
depositing  her  eggs  on  stem  near  the  ground.  Plants 
while  in  the  seedbed  should  be  protected  with  mos- 
quito-netting. 

Cabbage  worms — green  and  plentiful — are  well 
known  to  every  cabbage  grower ;  they  are  the  larvae 
of  the  white  butterflies  which  fly  around  cabbage 
fields.  Remedies :  The  main  secret  of  success  is 
regular,  persistent  treatment  nearly  every  week.  One 
treatment  alone  does  little  good,  owing  to  the  fact 
that  new  egg  supplies  are  being  placed  on  the  cab- 
bages by  the  butterflies  all  summer.  One  part 
pyrethrum  to  three  parts  flour,  dusted  on,  is  an 
excellent  remedy.  Water  at  a  temperature  of  130° 


CABBAGE   AND   CAULIFLOWER  115 

will  kill  every  worm  it  touches  without  injuring  the 
plants.  Kerosene  emulsion :  An  excellent  remedy 
while  the  plants  are  young,  but  may  give  the  heads  a 
bad  taste  if  used  too  late.  Air-slaked  lime:  Some 
growers  say  that  this  (or,  in  fact,  fine  dry  road  dust, 
or  any  powdery  substance)  will  kill  every  worm  it 
covers. 

Cutworms  work  only  at  night.  These  worms 
like  to  eat  through  the  stems  of  cabbages,  cauliflower, 
tomatoes,  etc.  Several  methods  of  combating  cut- 
worms have  been  invented,  such  as  killing  them  with 
poisoned  bait  scattered  along  the  plant  rows,  etc., 
but  one  of  the  best  ways  is  to  fence  them  out.  Cut 
some  stiff  paper  (tar-paper  is  good)  into  strips  about 
eight  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide.  Put  a  strip 
around  a  plant's  stem,  tightly  lap  the  edges  an  inch, 
and  push  the  lower  half  of  the  circle  into  the  soil — 
to  anchor  it  and  to  prevent  worms  from  burrowing 
beneath.  Have  the  circle  an  inch  away  from  stem. 

Flea  beetles  have  in  recent  years  been  destruc- 
tive to  young  cabbage,  radish  and  turnip  plants. 
Tobacco  dust,  applied  freely,  will  usually  drive  the 
pests  away.  Lime  flavored  with  Paris  green  will 
also  help  in  most  cases.  In  the  seedbed  the  plants 
can  be  protected  with  mosquito-netting. 

Lice  often  attack  cabbage.  Remedies  are  given 
in  Chapter  V. 

Club-root  is  the  most  common  and  dangerous 
cabbage  and  cauliflower  disease.  There  is  no  cure, 
but  there  are  preventive  measures.  Infected  plants, 
refuse  in  cabbage  fields,  etc.,  should  be  burned.  Ro- 
tation of  crops  should  be  practised.  Lime  used 
liberally  on  cabbage  ground  is  an  excellent  prevent- 
ive. The  disease,  however,  usually  makes  its  first 
appearance  in  the  seedbed,  and  can  there  be  best 


BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 


treated.  The  roots  become  swollen  and  distorted, 
and  the  leaves  look  sickly.  Treating  the  seedbed 
soil  with  bisulphide  of  carbon,  before  planting,  has 
been  recommended.  It  might  also  be  advisable  to 
treat  the  seed,  before  sowing,  as  follows  :  Put  the 
seed  in  a  cloth  sack  and  soak  for  two  hours  in  a 
solution  of  one  ounce  of  formalin  in  about  three  and 
one-quarter  gallons  of  water ;  dry  and  sow  at  once. 
Or  try  the  onion-smut  remedy  (lime  and  sulphur) 
given  in  Chapter  VII. 

CAULIFLOWER. — This  vegetable  is  grown  in  prac- 
tically the  same  way  as  cabbage,  but  I  find  that  it  is 
a  much  more  difficult  crop  to  bring  to  perfection. 
It  succeeds  best  in  a  cool  and  moist  climate,  and  in 
a  rich,  moist  soil.  Irrigation  is  a  great  help.  Buy 
only  the  best  seed;  and  push  growth  steadily  along 
by  regular  cultivation.  After  the  head  forms,  tie  the 

leaves  together  over  it 
to  prevent  sunburning. 
Early  Snowball  or  Early 
Dwarf  Erfurt  may  be 
started  in  hotbeds  about 
February  ist,  and  trans- 
planted in  the  same 
manner  as  advised  for 
early  cabbage.  Algiers 

and   Veitch's    Autumn 
IF  YOU  CAN'T  HOE  OUT  EVERY        ~.  ,  «.  -j .  • 

WEED,  BE  HUMBLE  AND  PULL  'EM    Uiant  may  be  started  in 

an   outdoor    seedbed   the 

same  as  late  cabbage.  When  prepared  for  market, 
the  leaves  are  usually  neatly  trimmed  off  even  with 
top  of  head,  and  the  heads  are  packed  in  baskets, 
crates,  etc.  Insects  and  diseases  are  the  same  as 
those  that  infest  cabbage;  which  may  also  be  said  of 
the  following  vegetables : 


CABBAGE   AND   CAULIFLOWER  117 

BROCCOLI. — Not  much  known  in  this  country. 
Very  similar  to  the  late  varieties  of  cauliflower. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS. — Belongs  to  the  cabbage  fam- 
ily, but  instead  of  forming  a  large  head,  miniature 
sprouts  or  cabbages  are  borne  along  the  stem — 
which  sprouts  are  considered  a  delicacy  when  young 
and  tender.  Usually  grown  as  a  late  crop,  by  sowing 
seeds  outdoors  in  June  and  transplanting  about 
August  ist.  Light  freezing  does  not  hurt  the  crop. 
Or  an  early  crop  may  be  grown  and  cultivated  the 
same  as  cabbage. 

KALE. — This  is  a  form  of  cabbage  which  does 
not  head ;  its  large  leaves  are  used  for  greens,  and  it 
is  sometimes  called  "borecole."  Kale  is  sown  out- 
doors in  the  North  in  the  spring,  and  is  not  usually 
transplanted.  Rows  the  same  as  for  cabbage  plants; 
thin  the  plants  to  about  fifteen  inches  apart.  Kale 
is  very  hardy  and  is  improved  by  freezing. 

Sea-kale :  Differs  from  the  foregoing  and  is 
little  known  in  this  country.  A  spring  vegetable, 
says  Long  Island  Agronomist,  earlier  than  asparagus. 
From  seed  sown  in  May  good  plants  can  be  set, 
like  asparagus,  into  a  permanent  bed  in  September 
and  will  remain  for  years.  Earth  is  lightly  piled 
over  the  bed  to  a  height  of  about  a  foot  in  early 
spring,  and  when  the  shoots  come  through  this  cover- 
ing they  are  cut  off  to  the  roots.  This  gives  stalks 
of  kale  much  resembling  celery;  pull  the  leaves 
apart  as  you  would  celery,  cook  in  boiling  salted 
water  until  tender  and  serve  with  drawn  butter, 
with  or  without  vinegar,  as  taste  desires. 

KOHLRABI. — This  is  a  turnip-rooted  cabbage,  and 
the  tuber  is  the  edible  part.  Not  much  grown  in  the 
United  States.  Hardy.  Sow  the  same  as  kale,  and 
use  the  bulbs  when  young  and  tender. 


CHAPTER  XII 
CORN.     BEANS.     SWEET  POTATOES 

"Great   helper   in    the   cook's   rare   art. 
The  complete  garden  does  its  part." 

WEET  or  sugar  corn  will  do  nicely  on 
almost  any  warm,  well-drained,  fairly- 
rich  soil ;  it  does  especially  well,  I  can 
testify,  on  a  turned-under  clover  sod. 
It  is  a  tender  plant  and  sowings  should 
not  be  made  in  the  North  until  early  in 
May.  In  the  garden,  corn  may  best  be 
planted  in  rows  about  four  feet  apart 
(not  in  hills  like  the  farmers'  field 
corn).  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  drills  and  cover  about 
two  inches  deep  (see  Chapter  V  in  regard  to  tarring 
the  seed),  and  thin  the  plants  when  well  up  to  about 
one  foot  apart.  Cultivate,  thoroughly.  Make  suc- 
cessional  sowings  at  ten-day  intervals,  until  about 
July  1 5th.  Corn  is  usually  sold  at  retail  by  the  dozen 
ears,  and  is  shipped  in  various  kinds  of  packages — 
crates,  barrels,  baskets,  sacks,  etc.  The  ears  are  not 
good  unless  pulled  at  just  the  right  stage  of  juicy 
development. 

Varieties :  Cory,  Crosby,  Early  Minnesota, 
Black  Mexican,  etc.,  are  good  early  and  second- 
early  kinds.  Country  Gentleman,  Stowell's  Ever- 
green, etc.,  are  standard  late  varieties.  I  grow  all 
of  these. 

Insects  and  diseases :  Wireworms  in  the  soil 
are  often  troublesome  (see  Chapter  VIII).  Cut- 
worms bother,  too,  but  the  wise  grower  plants 


I2O  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

enough  seed  to  insure  a  stand  despite  the  cutworms' 
attacks.  Webworms  and  lice  sometimes  attack  the 
leaves  (see  buhach,  and  lice  remedies,  in  Chapter 
V).  The  corn-worm  often  eats  the  kernels  of  ripen- 
ing corn,  but  no  very  satisfactory  remedies  are 
known.  Smut  (a  white  or  black  fungus)  is  rather 
common ;  burn  diseased  leaves  and  ears ;  never 
throw  them  on  the  manure  pile. 

POPCORN. — Usually  grown  as  a  farm  crop, 
planted  in  hills  about  3x3  feet  apart,  but  may  be 
grown  in  the  garden  the  same  as  sweet  corn,  if 
desired.  White  Rice  is  the  standard  kind.  Let  the 
ears  become  thoroughly  ripe  and  hard  before  gath- 
ering, and  hang  them  in  the  attic  until  dry  enough 
to  pop.  Do  not  plant  popcorn  near  sweet  corn,  nor 
sweet  corn  near  field  corn,  or  the  two  kinds  will 
mix. 

BEANS. — All  the  varieties  are  tender  and  should 
not  in  the  North  be  planted  in  the  open  ground 
until  about  May  10th  (earlier  farther  south).  First 
let  us  consider  the  edible-pod  bush  kinds  known  as 
"snap"  or  "string"  beans.  These  are  of  two  general 
types — the  green-podded  varieties  (such  as  String- 
less,  Early  Mohawk,  Earliest  Red  Valentine,  etc.), 
and  the  wax-podded  kinds  (such  as  Wardwell's 
Kidney  Wax,  Golden  Wax,  Valentine  Wax,  Yo- 
semite  Mammoth  Wax,  Stringless  Wax,  Perfection 
Wax,  etc.).  Sow  in  drills  about  two  feet  apart  (two 
and  one-half  feet  apart  if  to  be  worked  with  a  horse 
cultivator)  and  cover  seed  not  more  than  two  inches 
deep.  Thin  the  plants,  when  well  up,  to  about  four 
inches  apart.  Make  successional  sowings  every  two 
weeks,  if  you  wish,  until  August  ist.  Beans  prefer 
a  mellow,  warm,  rich  soil ;  but  do  not  give  them  too 
much  nitrogen  or  they'll  "run  all  to  vines."  One 


CORN.      BEANS.       SWEET   POTATOES  121 

quart  of  seed  will  sow  about  150  feet  of  drill.  Do 
not  cultivate  or  pick  beans  when  the  vines  are  wet, 
says  Harriet,  and  I  agree  to  that. 

Snap  beans  for  market  are  usually  picked  when 
about  half  mature,  and  are  packed  without  washing 
in  various  kinds  of  baskets  and  crates.  The  round, 
one-third-barrel  veneer  basket  is  a  favorite  in  some 
of  the  eastern  states.  In  some  localities  beans  can 
be  sold  in  bulk  to  canning  factories. 

White  navy  or  other  beans  for  winter  use  are 
farm  crops  rather  than  garden  crops  and  need  not  be 
considered  here.  Pole  beans  of  the  "snap"  variety 
are  listed  in  seed  catalogs,  but  the  bush  kinds  already 
mentioned  are  more  handy  to  grow  and  I  prefer 
them. 

Lima  beans :  Plant  about  ten  days  later  than 
snap  beans.  The  bush  limas  (Burpee's,  Henderson's, 
etc.,)  should  be  planted  in  rows  as  advised  for  snap 
beans,  but  spaced  about  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  No  stakes  or  supports  are  necessary.  Bush 
limas  are  best  for  extreme  northern  localities,  for 
they  do  not  require  such  a  long  season  as  the  pole 
limas. 

Pole  limas  (Early  Leviathan  and  King  of  the 
Garden  are  good  varie- 
ties) are  usually 
planted,  if  in  large 
fields,  four  feet  apart 
each  way  (2,722  hills 
to  the  acre)  and  culti- 
vated both  ways  so  as 
to  save  considerable 
hand  work ;  or  the  hills 

are  often  spaced  three  PLANT  ABQUT  SEVEN  LIMA  BEANS 
feet  in  four-foot-apart  AROUND  EACH  POLE 


122 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


rows,  and  cultivated  only  one  way  (3,630  hills  to  the 
acre).  Manure  and  fertilizer  are  generally  applied  to 
each  hill,  and  the  poles  are  set  in  the  center,  before 
planting  the  seed.  Plant  about  seven  beans  around 
each  pole,  eye  downward,  cover  about  an  inch  deep, 
and  when  the  plants  are  well  up  thin  out  to  about 
three  plants  to  a  pole.  The  seed  is  very  apt  to  rot 
in  the  ground  if  soil  is  too  wet  or  cold.  A  New 
Jersey  bean  grower  informs  me  that  he  greases  the 
beans  with  lard  before  planting,  and  thus  prevents 
the  rot  of  seed.  He  lards  a  quantity  at  a  time  in 
a  large  pan,  working  a  little  lard  into  the  mass 
with  his  hands.  One  quart  should  plant  about  100 
hills. 

The  hills  may,  or  may  not,  be  raised  a  little 
above  the  ground  level ;  personally  I  prefer  them 
nearly  level.  Manure  and  fertilizer  should  be  well 

mixed    with    soil    in    each 

hill,  with  a  two-inch  top 
layer  of  ordinary  earth. 
Poles  are  preferably  of 
cedar  because  that  wood 
is  so  durable,  but  any 
stout  pole  about  seven  and 
a  half  feet  long  will  do. 
These  are  easily  set  in 
holes  about  a  foot  and  a 
half  deep  made  with  an 
iron  crowbar  (see  illus- 

SETT.NG  BEAN-POLES   ,N   HOLES       Cation).    _     Poles      will      last 
MADE   WITH    A   CROWBAR  'd     iOYlg     tltTlC      II      StOrCO 

under     cover     in     winter. 

When  poles  can  not  be  procured,  the  use  of  braced 
end-posts  and  wires  will  answer  the  purpose  and 
save  room  in  a  small  garden.  One  wire  should  be 


CORN.       EEANS.       SWEET   POTATOES  123 

strung  about  six  feet  high,  and  another  about  six 
inches  from  the  ground — directly  over  the  four- foot 
row,  with  the  beans  planted  as  close  together  as 
eighteen  inches  so  as  to  take  full  advantage  of  this 
trellis  system.  When  the  beans  begin  to  run,  binder 
twine  may  be  woven  zigzag  fashion  between  the  two 
wires  to  form  a  trellis  for  the  bean  vines  to  climb  on. 

Some  folks  nip  off  the  vine  tips  when  they've 
reached  the  top  of  the  poles  or  wires — to  check 
growth  and  hasten  the  formation  of  beans. 

Limas  may  be  forced  by  starting  them  about  a 
month  earlier  in  dirt-bands,  pots,  etc.,  under  glass, 
and  then  moving  them  to  the  outdoor  hills  about 
May  25th  in  the  North,  or  when  the  second  leaves 
are  formed.  (See  Chapter  III.)  Or  they  may  be 
forced  in  a  small  way  in  the  outdoor  hills,  by  using 
the  box-and-glass  arrangement  pictured  in  Chapter 
XIII. 

Marketing  limas :  When  the  shape  of  the  beans 
can  be  distinctly  seen  in  the  pods,  it  is  about  time 
to  pick  them ;  of  course  several  pickings  are  made  at 
different  times,  until  frost  stops  growth.  Green 
limas  are  packed  and  shipped  in  their  pods  in  various 
kinds  of  baskets,  etc.,  or  are  sometimes  sold  at  retail, 
shelled,  by  the  quart. 

Bean  insects  and  diseases :  The  principal  insect 
pests  are  the  weevil  (see  Chapter  VIII),  and  cut- 
worms (Chapter  XI).  Several  kinds  of  beetles 
sometimes  eat  the  leaves ;  spraying  the  vines  with 
buhach  may  help  to  discourage  them,  or  they  may 
be  knocked  into  pans  of  kerosene.  Mildew,  rust 
and  blight  can  be  largely  controlled  by  early  spray- 
ings with  Bordeaux. 

SWEET  POTATOES. — For  best  success  this  crop  de- 
mands a  loose,  sandy  soil  and  a  long,  warm  season; 


124  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

therefore  it  is  not  grown,  commercially,  very  far 
north,  although  a  supply  for  home  use  may  be 
grown  almost  anywhere  south  of  central  Michigan. 
A  very  rich  soil  is  not  necessary;  too  much  nitrogen 
causes  the  plants  to  "run  all  to  vines,"  but  there 
should  be  plenty  of  potash  and  phosphoric  acid. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  commercial  crop  is 
grown  from  sets,  or  "draws,"  produced  by  sprouting 
medium-sized  potatoes  in  a  warm  bed  of  soil.  In  the 
southern  states  the  seed  potatoes  are  sometimes  cut 
into  pieces  in  the  same  manner  as  Irish  potatoes  and 
planted  in  the  row  where  they  are  to  mature.  In 
the  south  Atlantic  and  Gulf  Coast  states  the  sweet 
potato  is  frequently  propagated  by  making  vine  cut- 
tings. Where  only  a  small  area  of  sweet  potatoes  is 
to  be  grown  for  home  use,  the  necessary  plants  can 
best  be  secured  from  some  one  who  makes  a  busi- 
ness of  growing  them.  If  an  acre  or  more  is  to  be 
planted,  the  grower  should  write  to  the  U.  S.  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  get  a 
copy  of  free  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  324,  which  gives 
full  details  impossible  to  give  in  the  space  at  my 
command. 

The  "ridge"  method  of  culture  is  quite  common. 
Probably  it  is  the  best  way  for  the  small  garden. 
Low  ridges  about  a  foot  wide  are  thrown  up,  say 
three  feet  apart  from  center  to  center,  and  are 
rolled,  or  are  allowed  to  settle  a  week  or  two  be- 
fore planting  begins.  The  plants  are  set  about  fif- 
teen inches  apart  along  the  center  of  each  ridge. 
Level  planting  is  also  practised,  with  the  plants  set 
about  thirty  inches  apart  each  way.  This  permits  of 
cultivating  both  ways  until  the  vines  interfere. 

In  the  North  the  plants  are  usually  set  the  latter 
part  of  May  or  the  first  of  June;  earlier  in  the 


CORN.      BEANS.       SWEET   POTATOES  125 

South.  They  are  very  sensitive  to  cold.  Cultivation 
should  be  thorough.  The  vines  need  disturbing  to 
keep  them  from  .rooting  at  the  joints. 

Varieties :  Yellow  Nansemond  and  Jersey  are 
much  planted  in  the  North.  Vineless  (it  has  shorter 
vines)  is  popular,  too.  These  are  dry  and  mealy- 
fleshed — qualities  which  seem  to  be  preferred  in 
northern  kitchens.  In  the  South  the  moist-fleshed, 
sugary  tubers  (often  called  "yams")  are  preferred. 
Southern  Queen  is  a  good  one  of  this  type. 

Insects  and  diseases :  Cutworms  and  flea-beetles 
(see  Chapter  XI)  sometimes  bother.  There  is  also 
a  white  grub  or  borer  which  burrows  in  the  vines 
or  roots ;  infested  vines  should  be  pulled  up  and 
burned.  Sweet  potatoes  are  also  subject  to  fungous 
rot,  leaf-spot,  scab,  white  rust,  etc.  Early  sprayings 
with  half-strength  Bordeaux  and  rotation  of  crops 
are  helps.  Also  the  storage  house,  before  storing 
tubers  therein,  should  be  fumigated  with  sulphur 
fumes. 

Digging,  storing  and  marketing:  Some  growers 
contend  that  sweet  potatoes  should  be  dug  just  be- 
fore the  vines  are  frosted.  Experience  proves,  how- 
ever, that  they  will  keep  all  right  if  dug  soon  after 
a  light  frost.  In  the  absence  of  a  machine  digger, 
the  potatoes  can  be  plowed  out  with  a  two-horse 
turning  plow  with  a  sharp  rolling  cutter  attached  to 
cue  the  vines.  Or  they  may  be  dug  out  by  hand 
with  an  ordinary  potato  hook.  Handle  as  little  as 
possible.  Be  careful  not  to  bruise.  Slatted  bushel 
crates  are  best  for  handling  potatoes,  either  sweet  or 
Irish.  If  not  filled  level  full,  they  can  be  stacked 
on  top  of  each  other  in  the  wagon  or  elsewhere 
without  injury  to  the  potatoes.  Only  straight, 
smooth  potatoes  and  none  smaller  than  one  and  one- 


126  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

half  inches  should  be  included  with  those  intended 
for  market.     The  crooked,  cut  and  broken  potatoes, 
and     those     affected     with 
black   rot,    should   be   saved 
to   feed  to  animals. 

Pack    for    shipment    in 
barrels    with    burlap    tied 
over  the  head,  or  in  baskets, 
or    whatever    package    your 
market    prefers.      The    one- 
third-barrel,    round,    veneer 
basket  lined  and  topped  with 
paper,  with  a  wooden  cover, 
ONE  CLUSTER  OF  SWEETS-    is    a    favorite    Maryland 
WEIGHT,  EIGHT   POUNDS.       package  for  fancy  "sweets." 

BE    CAREFUL   NOT    TO  T1,. 

BRUISE  In    Illinois    the    eleven-peck 

barrel    lined    with    paper    is 

used.  If  you  want  to  store  a  large  crop,  consult 
Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  324  in  regard  to  commercial 
storage  methods.  If  you  want  to  store  a  few  tubers 
for  home  use,  put  them  in  ventilated  crates  or  bas- 
kets in  a  dry,  warm,  frost-proof  room.  Do  not  put 
them  in  the  cellar.  If  each  tuber  is  wrapped  in  a 
piece  of  newspaper,  the  potatoes  will  keep  longer.  A 
few  might  be  wrapped  and  put  in  paper  bags  and 
hung  near  the  ceiling. 

Remember :  That  it  is  always  advantageous 
to  grade  and  pack  goods  with  care  so  that  the  quality 
will  run  uniform  throughout,  and  then  mark  the  con- 
tents neatly  on  the  package.  That  if  perishable  goods 
come  on  the  market  late  in  the  day  they  never  sell 
so  well  or  for  so  much  as  when  in  early.  That  the 
best  goods  sell  to  the  best  trade,  and  other  goods  to 
the  cheap  trade,  and  each  has  its  level  of  prices. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
CUCUMBER.     MELON.     PUMPKIN.     SQUASH 

Plant  the  seeds  and  use  the  hoe, 

Balmy   be  the  weather; 
Growth  is  sure  though  it  be  slow, 
And    the    harvest    time    we'll    know. 

LL  of  the  crops  mentioned  in 
this  chapter  are  tender  and 
seed  should  not  be  planted  in 
the  open  ground  in  the  North 
until  the  weather  is  warm  and 
settled — say  about  May  I5th. 
In  Georgia,  I  am  told,  the 
planting  date  would  be  about  March  I5th.  A  light 
loamy  or  sandy  soil  is  best.  Put  a  handful  of  com- 
plete fertilizer  and  a  shovelful  of  well-rotted  manure 
or  compost  in  each  hill,  mix  well  with  the  soil  and 
put  two  inches  of  "plain  dirt"  on  top.  I  prefer  low 
hills  that  are  very  little  if  any  above  the  ground  level, 
each  hill  about  a  foot  in  diameter.  Sow  plenty  of 
seed — about  fifteen  seeds  scattered  all  over  the  hill, 
covered  half  an  inch  deep  and  firmed  with  the  back 
of  a  hoe.  When  the  vines  are  well  up,  thin  out  half 
of  them;  when  the  remainder  begin  to  run,  thin 
them  out  so  as  to  leave  only  three — well  spaced.  Cul- 
tivate and  hoe  (shallow)  until  the  vines  prevent. 
Some  growers  practise  nipping  off  the  tips  of  lead- 
ing shoots  when  three  or  four  feet  in  length,  to 
force  out  side  shoots  and  hasten  fruiting. 

These  crops — especially  melons  and  cucumbers — 
are   oftentimes   hurried   along  by  planting   the   seed 


128 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


about  a  month  earlier  in  dirt-bands,  in  pots,  or  on 
inverted  pieces  of  sod  (see  Chapter  III),  and  raising 
the  plants  under  glass,  or — on  a  small  scale — in  the 
kitchen  window.  Then,  without  disturbing  the  roots 
in  the  least,  the  plants  are  moved  to  hills  outdoors 
the  latter  part  of  May  when  the  weather  is  warm 
and  settled.  Or,  if  only  a  few  hills  are  wanted, 
here's  another  way  to  force  the  plants :  Sow  the 
seed  in  permanent  hills 
outdoors  early  in  April 
(in  the  North),  and  cover 
each  hill  with  a  small  box 
of  any  kind  or  shape, 
without  a  bottom  and  with 
a  piece  of  glass  laid  on 
for  a  top  (see  illustra- 
tion). Thus  you  have  a 
cheap,  r  o  u  g  h,  miniature 
coldframe  over  each  hill, 
which  serves  the  double 
purpose  of  raising  extra- 
early  plants,  and  protect- 
ing them  from  insects  un- 
til they  get  so  big  that  the 
boxes  must  be  removed. 
A  piece  of  mosquito-net- 
ting over  the  top  will  keep 
out  bugs  whenever  the  glass  is  removed  for  ventila- 
tion (and  ventilation  must  be  closely  attended  to 
whenever  the  weather  permits). 

The  foregoing  general  directions  apply  to  all 
these  vine  crops.  The  following  are  additional  and 
special  points  about  each : 

CUCUMBERS. — In  large  fields  cucumbers  for 
pickles  are  often  planted  in  hills  5x5  feet  apart 


A     GLASS-COVERED      BOX      OVER 

EACH  HILL  HURRIES  MELONS, 

ETC.       PHOTO  TAKEN  MAY 

9TH    IN   NEW  JERSEY 


CUCUMBER.      MELON.     PUMPKIN.      SQUASH  I2Q 

(1,742  to  the  acre),  and  cultivated  both  ways  until 
the  vines  cover  the  ground.  One  ounce  of  seed  will 
plant  about  fifty  hills ;  about  two  pounds  to  the  acre. 
Sowings  or  successional  sowings  may  be  made  as 
late  as  early  July  in  the  North ;  in  fact,  pickle  grow- 
ers sometimes  plant  late  on  purpose — to  escape  the 
worst  of  the  bug  attack.  Chicago  Pickle,  Everbear- 
ing, Early  Frame,  etc.,  are  good  pickling  varieties.  A 
small  prickly  kind  called  a  gherkin  is  sometimes 
grown.  The  crop  is  gathered  in  burlap  bags  and 
sold  by  the  bushel  or  the  hundred  pounds  to  pickle 
factories,  who  usually  make  contracts  in  advance. 
Only  pickles  of  a  certain  specified  size  are  wanted 
(usually  three  or  four  inches  in  length,  sometimes 
smaller).  Pickers  must  be  hired,  for  the  crop  should 
be  picked  regularly,  systematically  and  often;  for  if 
any  of  the  cucumbers  are  allowed  to  grow  large  and 
mature  seeds,  the  production  of  the  vine  soon  stops 
(this  rule  applies  to  all  cucumbers,  and  to  some  other 
things). 

Cucumbers  for  table  use  may  be  planted  the  same 
as  pickles,  but  are  usually  planted  early  because 
wanted  early.  For  one-way  garden  culture  I  like  to 
have  the  rows  six  feet  apart,  and  hills  about  four  feet 
apart  in  the  row.  White  Spine  is  an  excellent  large 
variety.  For  market,  cucumbers  should  be  full  size, 
green  and  not  too  ripe,  and  graded  as  to  size.  One- 
third-barrel  round  veneer  baskets  are  often  used  as 
a  shipping  package  in  the  East.  (Table  cucumbers 
are  sometimes  forced  in  greenhouses  in  the  winter; 
consult  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  254.) 

A  hint  for  the  boys :  Without  detaching  it  from 
the  vine,  slip  a  small  cucumber  into  a  fair-sized  bot- 
tle, and  after  it  grows  so  as  to  fill  the  space  cut  it 
from  the  vine.  Folks  will  wonder  how  it  got  there. 


I3O  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

Another  hint :  Spade  up  the  ground  in  a  large 
circle.  Take  a  barrel,  with  the  bottom  knocked  out, 
set  it  in  the  center  of  the  circle  and  fill  it  two-thirds 
full  of  well-rotted  manure.  Plant  cucumber  seeds 
in  hills  around  the  barrel,  and  every  day  turn  in  upon 
the  manure  a  pail  or  two  of  water.  The  water  will 
soak  its  way  through  and  keep  the  ground  moist 
and  rich. 

MUSKMELONS. — Rows  six  feet  apart  and  hills 
four  feet  apart  in  the  row,  are  about  right.  E.  R. 
Jinnette  plants  5x5  feet  and  trains  the  vines  all  one 
way  in  the  row  to  facilitate  cultivating  and  picking. 
Earliness  counts  with  this  crop.  Rocky  Ford,  Netted 
Gem,  Osage,  Paul  Rose,  Jenny  Lind,  Montreal  Mar- 
ket, Hackensack,  Blinn,  etc.,  are  favorite  varieties. 
(NOTE:  Muskmelons  are  often  wrongly  called  canta- 
loupes. The  true  cantaloupe,  says  Prof.  Bailey,  is 
a  distinct  kind  having  a  hard,  warty  rind;  it  is  fre- 
quently grown  in  Europe,  but  is  not  much  grown  in 
this  country.) 

Climax  baskets  (one-third-bushel  size  with 
slatted  cover)  are  a  popular  Illinois  shipping  package. 
A  slatted  crate  12x12x22^  inches  (inside  measure- 
ment), holding  forty-five  melons  each,  is  a  well- 
known  Colorado  package.  Other  styles  of  packages 
are  used.  The  fruit  should  be  graded  as  to  size,  and 
packed  so  that  the  ribs  of  the  fruit  all  run  length- 
wise of  the  package — this  gives  an  attractive  appear- 
ance. How  to  tell  when  a  muskmelon  is  ripe :  Only 
sound,  heavily-netted,  mature  melons  should  be 
shipped.  But  they  must  not  be  soft  nor  over-ripe. 
When  the  stem  parts  readily  from  the  melon  is  the 
right  time;  if  not  picked  promptly  then  it  soon  turns 
yellow  and  soft.  The  vines  should  be  picked  over 
every  day ;  sometimes  twice  a  day. 


CUCUMBER.       MELON.      PUMPKIN.       SQUASH         13! 

WATERMELONS. — Eight  by  eight  feet  suits  me 
for  these  long-running  vines ;  some  growers  prefer 
them  even  farther  apart.  A  long  growing  season  is 
required,  and  therefore  only  very  early  varieties  can 
be  successfully  grown  in  the  North.  Cole's  Early 
is  good  for  this  purpose.  In  the  South  watermelon 
growing  is  a  large  industry,  and  carload  shipments 
are  made.  Kentucky  Wonder,  Sweetheart,  Seminole, 
Kolb's  Gem,  Gypsy,  Dixie,  etc.,  are  favorite  southern 
kinds. 

There  is  a  variety  known  as  "citron,"  the  rind 
of  which  is  used  for  preserves.  The  flesh  is  not 
edible.  The  real  citron  of  commerce  comes  from  the 
fruit  of  a  tree  grown  only  in  the  far  South. 

The  knowledge  of  telling  a  ripe  watermelon 
comes  mainly  by  experience  and  observation,  says 
a  southern  grower.  It  is  often  claimed  that  when 
the  little  "curl"  or  tendril  on  the  stem  is  dead,  the 
melon  is  ripe;  if  green,  the  melon  is  also  green. 
This  is  not  altogether  a  reliable  sign.  The  flat,  dead 
sound  emitted  by  the  melon 
when  thumped  with  the  finger 
is  also  an  indication  of  ripe- 
ness. If  on  turning  the  melon 
over  and  exposing  the  under 
side,  the  white  blotches  are 
found  yellowish,  rough,  and 
warty,  with  the  surface  suffi- 
ciently hard  to  resist  the  finger  nail  when  scratched, 
it  is  another  sign  of  ripeness.  After  the  melon  looks 
ripe  and  thumps  as  if  it  were  ripe,  and  if  on  pressing 
it  down,  the  interior  appears  to  give,  and  this  is  also 
accompanied  by  a  slight  crisp  crackling,  the  melon 
is  almost  sure  to  be  ripe.  (Melons  that  are  to  be 
shipped  should  not  be  put  to  this  latter  test.) 


132  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

PUMPKINS. — Usually  grown  by  farmers  in  corn 
fields.  Seldom  grown  in  the  garden,  but  may  be 
planted,  if  desired,  the  same  as  watermelons.  Quaker 
Pie  and  Sugar  are  good  varieties  for  home  use. 

SQUASH. — White  Bush,  Golden  Custard  Bush 
and  Yellow  Summer  Crookneck  are  favorite  summer 
kinds.  Hills  for  these  should  be  about  four  feet 
apart  each  way.  Of  the  winter  varieties,  Hubbard 
is  the  best  known.  Marblehead,  Boston  Marrow,  Es- 
sex Hybrid,  etc.,  are  also  grown.  Prize  squash,  etc., 
of  extra  size  may  be  raised  by  leaving  only  one 
selected  specimen  on  a  vine;  cut  all  others  off  and 
remove  blossoms,  nip  the  ends  off  vines,  and  apply 
liquid  manure  frequently  to  roots. 

Plant  winter  squash  the  same  distance  apart  as 
watermelons.  Late-planted  squash,  I've  discovered, 
often  escape  the  black  squash-bugs.  This,  and  yearly 
rotation,  are  the  two  secrets  of  success.  Try  plant- 
ing some  Hubbard  seed  the  middle  of  June,  choosing 
a  spot  where  no  similar  crop  has  been  recently 
grown.  If  a  few  bugs  do  find  the  vines,  pick  off 
the  pests  in  the  early  morning  and  kill  them.  Try 
covering  the  vines  about  the  hills  with  a  mound 
of  loose  earth — doing  this  about  the  time  of  the  last 
cultivation,  with  a  hoe.  This  will  prevent  the 
ravages  of  the  squash  root-borer  which  attacks  the 
growing  plants  about  that  time,  as  usually  the  vines 
will  start  rootlets  within  this  covering,  and  in  spite 
of  the  injury  done  to  their  roots  will  grow  and  set 
nice  squashes  which  will  mature  in  this  manner. 
Gather  winter  squash  before  they  are  frosted,  and 
store  in  a  dry  place. 

Insects  and  diseases :  The  following  are  ene- 
mies of  all  the  crops  mentioned  in  this  chapter.  First 
in  importance  is  the  well-known  "striped  bug"  or 


CUCUMBER.       MELON.      PUMPKIN.       SQUASH         133 

beetle  which  nearly  always  appears  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  above  ground.  In  a  small  garden  the 
simplest  remedy  is  a  protecting  cover  of  mosquito- 
netting  over  each  hill.  In  large  gardens,  the  plants 
may  be  kept  well  dusted  with  air-slaked  lime,  tobacco 
dust  and  a  little  Paris  green,  mixed.  Or  the  young 
plants  may  be  sprayed  with  Bordeaux,  adding  four 
pounds  of  arsenate  of  lead  to  fifty  gallons.  Some 
growers  claim  that  an  ordinary  "moth  ball"  placed 
on  each  hill  will  keep  the  pests  away.  Flea-beetles 
and  cutworms  are  sometimes  troublesome  (see  Chap- 
ter XI).  Then  there  is  a  worm  or  caterpillar  that 
often  makes  trouble ;  hand-picking  is  usually  effect- 
ive, followed  by  burning  old  vines  and  rubbish,  and 
rotation  of  crops.  The  louse  or  aphis  often  does 
considerable  damage  to  the  leaves  and  vines  and 
is  a  difficult  pest  to  combat  because  of  its  habit  of 
hiding  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Use  any 
of  the  lice  remedies,  and  use  an  upward-spray  noz- 
zle arrangement  that  will  put  the  spray  under  the 
leaves  (see  illustration  in  Chapter  V).  The  squash 
root-borer  (see  Squash)  attacks  other  vines  some- 
times. 

Mildew,  rot,  blight,  etc.,  may  best  be  held  in 
check  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  beginning  early 
and  repeating  the  spray  at  intervals  until  the  fruit 
is  half  grown.  (Use  half-strength  Bordeaux  on 
watermelon  vines.) 


CHAPTER  XIV 


TOMATO.    EGGPLANT.    PEPPER 


How   these   vegetables   do   like   to    be   tickled  "with  a   hoe! 
Humor  'em  often. — Farmer   Vincent. 

<ARLY  tomato  plants  are  usually 
started  in  hotbeds  in  the  North 
about  February  I5th.  (Earlier  in 
the  South.)  Refer  to  Chapter  III 
for  particulars  of  culture  under 
glass,  transplanting,  etc.  One  ounce 
of  seed  should  produce  about  3,000 
plants.  Remember  that  too  high  a 
temperature  and  too  much  moisture 
make  spindling,  weak  plants.  Sixty- 
five  or  70°  is  about  right.  The  first 
transplanting  to  other  flats  in  hotbeds  is  done  about 
March  I5th,  spacing  2x2  inches  apart.  If  extra- 
large,  stocky  plants  are  wanted,  transplant  them  a 
second  time,  about  April  I5th,  spacing  them  five 
inches  apart,  in  coldframes  or  spent  hotbeds.  Finally, 
after  well  hardening-off,  about  the  last  of  May  the 
plants  are  moved  to  permanent  quarters  in  the  open 
ground.  (Owners  of  small  gardens  will  generally 
find  it  easier  to  buy  plants  than  to  raise  them.)  My 
late  or  main-crop  plants  are  sown  in  hotbeds  as  late 
as  April  ist,  transplanted  to  coldframes  May  1st, 
and  set  in  the  open  ground  about  June  ist.  They  are 
not  so  large  then  as  the  earlier-grown  plants,  but  are 
all  right  for  main  crop. 

Outdoor  rows  should  be  four  feet  apart;  plants 


136 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


set  about  three  feet  apart  in  the  row.  Or,  if  you 
want  a  high,  thick  fence  or  screen  (as  shown  in  the 
back -yard  picture  on  next  page),  the  plants  may  be 


A  BARE  TOWN  BACK  YARD.    BEFORE  AND — AFTER 
(SEE  NEXT  PICTURE) 

set  about  two  feet  apart  and  trained  up  on  a  six- 
foot-high  netting  or  trellis.  Large  fields  are  some- 
times set  4x4  feet  (2,722  plants  to  the  acre)  and 
cultivated  both  ways.  A  light,  loamy  soil  is  best  for 
early  tomatoes.  A  picture  on  page  138  shows  a 
gardener  applying  fertilizer  to  hills  in  furrows ;  a 
little  rotted  stable  manure  has  previously  been 
placed  where  each  hill  or  plant  is  to  be.  This  gar- 
dener afterward  sets  the  plants  over  each  enriched 
hill  (his  helper  with  a  hoe  first  mixes  soil  with  the 
hill  of  fertilizer  and  manure,  puts  more  soil  on  top, 
and  makes  an  opening  for  the  plant).  After  each 
plant  is  set  the  soil  is  firmly  trodden  around  it  with 
the  feet;  the  furrow,  between  hills,  is  either  filled 
with  the  hoe  as  the  planting  progresses,  or  the  filling 
is  done  by  cultivating  crosswise  after  the  entire  field 
is  set. 

The  after  cultivation  should  be  thorough  and 
regular.  When  the  vines  are  large  enough  to  need 
support  they  should  be  tied  loosely  to  stakes  about 


TOMATO.      EGGPLANT.      PEPPER 


137 


four  feet  high  (higher,  if  desired),  or  supported  on 
high  wire  or  wooden  trellises,  or  on  low  A-shaped 
frames  or  racks,  or  on  piles  of  brush  placed  beneath 
the  vines — in  fact,  anything  will  answer  that  will  keep 
them  off  the  ground.  (Where  large  areas  of  toma- 
toes are  grown  the  vines  are  seldom  supported.) 
Pinching  off  the  tips  of  the  main  upper  shoots  when 
the  plants  on  racks  are  about  three  feet  high  is  prac- 


SAME    BACK   YARD    AFTER    GROWING    FLOWERS, 
VINES   AND   A   HIGH    SCREEN   OF   TOMATOES 

tised  by  a  few  gardeners,  who  claim  that  it  "makes 
the  fruit  earlier  and  finer" ;  some  others  train  the 
vines  to  long  stakes  and  regularly  pinch  off  the  side 
shoots ;  many  others  do  no  pruning  of  any  kind. 

Varieties  of  tomatoes :  Earliana,  Atlantic  Prize, 
Chalk's  Early  Jewel,  Matchless,  etc.,  are  well-known 
early  red  kinds,  the  first-named  being  especially  early, 
I  find.  Stone,  Acme,  Perfection,  Jersey  Red,  Match- 
less, Beauty,  etc.,  are  good  main-crop  varieties.  To- 
mato varieties  soon  "run  out"  and  new  kinds  are 
constantly  being  introduced;  so  names  change 


138 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


quickly.  "Peach,"  Yellow  "Plum,"  Red  "Cherry," 
"Husk"  and  similar  tomatoes  are  sometimes  grown 
for  preserves  or  as  novelties. 

Marketing  Tomatoes  :  Gathering  should  be  done 
two  or  three  times  a  week — sometimes  every  day — 
only  picking  the  fruits  that  are  ready  each  time.  If 
to  be  shipped  some  distance,  pick  them  when  they  are 
just  beginning  to  color — even  sooner  for  very  long 
distances.  For  near-by  market  let  them  color  all 
over,  or  nearly  so,  on  the  vines,  but  they  should  not 
be  over-ripe  and  soft.  Choice  early  tomatoes  for 

distant  shipment  are 
usually  packed  in 
crates  holding  six 
baskets  (similar  to  a 
Georgia  peach  crate), 
and  each  tomato  is 
wrapped  in  paper.  Or 
sometimes  flat  boxes 
carrying  two  layers 
of  wrapped  fruits  are 
used.  Later  tomatoes 
from  near-by  points 
are  packed  in  a  variety  of  packages — bushel  crates, 
half-bushel  baskets,  third-barrel  baskets,  etc.  Toma- 
toes for  canning  factories  are  best  handled  in  the 
slatted  bushel  boxes  recommended  for  potatoes ;  the 
factories  contract  to  pay  a  certain  price  "per  ton." 

If  frost  threatens  before  the  tomatoes  and  pep- 
pers are  all  gathered,  says  Harriet  (leaning  over  my 
shoulder  as  I  write),  cover  them  with  cloths  or 
papers  and  save  them ;  or  pull  the  plants  and  hang 
them  under  a  shed;  or  cover  with  straw  where  they 
stand;  or  pick  the  larger  green  tomatoes  and  let 
them  ripen  in  the  sun  indoors ;  or  wrap  each  green 


APPLYING  FERTILIZER    TO    MANURED 
HILLS    IN    FURROWS,    FOR     TOMA- 
TOES   (SEE  PAGE  136) 


TOMATO.      EGGPLANT.      PEPPER  139 

tomato  in  paper,  store  in  a  cool  cellar,  and  keep  for 
later  ripening  in  the  sun. 

Insects  and  diseases :  The  large  green  tomato 
worm  is  the  principal  insect  pest.  Spray  young  plants 
with  arsenate  of  lead;  hand-pick  the  worms  on 
fruiting  vines.  Rot  and  blight  are  the  chief  diseases. 
Practise  rotation  of  crops ;  burn  all  diseased  fruit 
and  dead  vines ;  keep  the  vines  off  the  ground ;  spray 
with  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  beginning  early  and  con- 
tinuing at  intervals  until  a  few  weeks  before  picking 
time. 

EGGPLANT. — The  plants  are  grown  under  glass 
the  same  as  tomatoes,  except  that  they  require  more 
heat  and  care  in  the  hotbed,  and  need  not  be  started 
quite  so  early.  March  ist  is  soon  enough,  in  the 
North.  One  hotbed  transplanting  is  sufficient  if  you 
space  the  plants  well  apart.  To  reach  maturity,  a 
long,  warm  season  is  required;  therefore  commercial 
success  with  this  crop  can  not  be  expected  too  far 
north.  Choose  a  rich,  loose,  loamy  soil ;  clay  is  not 
so  suitable ;  neither  is  too  wet  a  soil.  New  York  Im- 
proved, Black  Beauty  and  Black  Pekin  are  the  best 
varieties  where  the  season  is  long  enough ;  in  ex- 
treme northern  localities  the  Early  Dwarf  Purple 
would  be  more  apt  to  mature  its  fruit.  Plants  may 
be  set  2^  x  2l/2  feet  outdoors  about  June  ist  in  the 
North ;  this  is  for  hoe  cultivation.  For  horse  work 
in  a  large  field,  3x3  feet  would  be  better. 

Marketing  eggplant :  The  fruit  is  usually  cut 
from  the  stem  when  nearly  full-grown  and  fully- 
colored.  An  over-ripe  fruit  changes  from  a  bright 
to  a  dull  purple,  and  the  seeds  inside  begin  to  swell; 
it  is  then  worthless  for  market  or  table  use.  Gath- 
ering the  fruits  before  they  quite  reach  full  size 
increases  the  crop.  A  marketable  eggplant  should  be 


I4O  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

from  six  to  nine  inches  long.  Wipe  clean,  sort  as  to 
size,  and  pack  in  barrels,  baskets  or  crates. 

Diseases  and  insects :  Anthracnose  (pinkish  pits 
or  spots  on  the  fruit),  rot,  mold,  leaf-spot  and  stem- 
blight  are  best  prevented  and  held  in  check  by  early 
and  regular  sprayings  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture. 
Flea-beetles,  potato  bugs,  etc.,  often  attack  the  vines 
(see  remedies  elsewhere). 

PEPPERS. — The  mild,  sweet  varieties  for  slicing 
or  stuffing  are  mostly  in  demand — such  as  Ruby  King, 
Bull  Nose,  Sweet  Mountain,  Chinese  Giant,  Neapoli- 
tan, etc.  Long  Red  Cayenne  is  the  hot  pepper  of 
commerce ;  Chili  and  Cranberry  are  pickling  favor- 
ites. Grow  plants  in  hotbeds  the  same  as  eggplant. 
Set  outdoors  late  in  May,  in  rows  two  and  one-half 
feet  apart,  plants  spaced  twenty  inches  apart  in  the 
row.  Marketing  may  begin  when  the  peppers  are 
a  little  more  than  half  grown,  and  may  continue 
until  they  are  ripe.  Open  barrels,  crates,  baskets, 
etc.,  are  used,  each  variety  or  size  of  pepper  being 
kept  by  itself.  Unlike  eggplant  or  tomatoes,  peppers 
often  endure  a  small  degree  of  frost  in  the  fall 
(although  while  young  the  plants  are  very  tender). 
Pepper  plants  are  seldom  troubled  with  insects ; 
anthracnose  and  rot  are  the  most  common  diseases 
(see  Eggplant). 

FIGHTING  FROST. — Commercial  truckers  some- 
times save  their  tender  vegetables,  melons,  etc.,  from 
untimely  late-May  or  early-fall  frosts,  by  lighting 
smudge  fires  here  and  there  throughout  the  patch. 
Or  sometimes  oil-burning  metal  pots  are  used  (about 
100  to  the  acre),  similar  to  the  ones  used  by  western 
orchardists. 


CHAPTER  XV 
MISCELLANEOUS 


ARTICHOKE,    CELERIAC,    CHARD,    CORN    SALAD,    CRESS, 

ENDIVE,     GINSENG,     HERBS,     LEEK,     MUSHROOM, 

MUSTARD,   OKRA,   PARSLEY,   SPINACH,  ETC. 

^HERE  are  two  distinct  kinds  of  arti- 
chokes— one  is  grown  for  its  potato-like, 
underground  tubers  and  is  called  Jeru- 
salem artichoke,  and  the  other  is  called 
the  Globe  artichoke  and  the  parts  eaten 
are  the  unopened  flower  heads  (and 
sometimes  the  young  shoots).  The  for- 
mer kind  is  seldom  grown  in  American 
gardens,  being  considered  more  suited 
for  farm  culture  for  stock  food;  per- 
fectly hardy;  multiplies  rapidly  and  will  become  a 
bad  weed  if  not  kept  within  bounds ;  once  planted 
it  will  maintain  itself  indefinitely;  plant  the  tubers 
the  same  distance  apart  as  you  would  potatoes.  The 
Globe  artichoke  is  propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  suckers 
taken  from  other  plants.  Seeds  do  not  grow  true  to 
name.  Seedsmen  sell  plants  for  about  $1.50  per 
dozen.  Set  them  about  3x3  feet  apart ;  protect  the 
crowns  in  winter  with  straw,  etc. ;  plants  are  good 
for  about  three  years ;  not  often  grown  in  this  coun- 
try, but  wrorth  growing. 

CELERIAC. — Little  known  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  a  turnip-rooted  kind  of  celery,  and  the  "turnip" 
is  the  edible  part — either  cooked  or  as  a  salad. 


142  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

Grown  about  the  same  as  celery,  but  the  stalks  are 
not  blanched;  the  turnip  part  can  be  stored  in  winter 
the  same  as  any  other  root  crop. 

CHARD. — Also  called  Swiss  chard  or  "leaf  beet." 
Few  Americans  know  or  value  this  member  of  the 
beet  family,  but  Harriet  and  I  have  recently  learned 
to  prize  it  highly.  Be  sure  to  try  some,  early  next 
spring.  Sow  the  seed  in  rows  about  two  feet  apart 
and  thin  the  plants  so  they'll  stand  about  fif- 
teen inches  apart  in  the  row.  The  thinnings  may 
be  used  for  "greens."  When  the  plants  are  full- 
grown  the  large  leaves  and  stalks  may  be  pulled  as 
wanted  (about  as  you  pull  rhubarb).  Sometimes 
Harriet  cuts  up  and  cooks  leaves  and  stalks  to- 
gether (as  you  would  spinach)  ;  sometimes  she  cooks 
the  whitish  stalk  part  just  as  if  it  were  asparagus, 
and  uses  only  the  leaves  for  "greens."  Either  way, 
the  result  is  surprisingly  pleasing.  We  like  the  greens 
better  than  spinach.  The  plants  produce  stalks  and 
leaves  until  fall.  Must  be  planted  each  year.  Easy 
to  grow. 

CORN  SALAD. — Hardy.  Sow  in  early  spring  the 
same  as  lettuce.  It  matures  in  about  seven  weeks 
and  furnishes  a  bunch  of  leaves  for  salad.  Or  may 
be  sown  late  in  summer  for  fall  use.  Seldom  grown 
in  this  country. 

CRESS. — There  are  two  well-known  kinds — 
"water  cress,"  and  "garden  cress."  (There  is  a 
third  kind,  called  "upland  cress,"  which  is  little 
known.)  Water  cress  is  a  perennial  and  does  best  in 
moist  places  or  in  running  water.  Seed  may  be  pur- 
chased of  seedsmen  and  scattered  along  the  edges  of 
brooks,  etc.  It  grows  without  care  when  once  estab- 
lished. It  may  also  be  propagated  by  planting  pieces 
of  plant  stems  in  the  wet  earth.  Garden  cress  is  an 


MISCELLANEOUS  143 

annual,  nearly  hardy,  and  may  be  sown  in  April  in 
the  garden  like  lettuce,  or  in  late  summer  for  fall 
use.  Water  cress  is  the  kind  usually  seen  in  mar- 
kets, being  better  known  than  the  garden  variety. 

ENDIVE. — Henry  A.  Dreer  says :  "Endive  is 
one  of  the  best  and  most  wholesome  salads  for  fall 
and  winter  use.  Sow  in  shallow  drills  in  April  for 
early  use ;  or  for  late  use  sow  in  June  or  July.  When 
three  inches  high,  transplant  or  thin  out  to  one  foot 
apart.  When  nearly  full  grown,  and  before  they  are 
fit  for  the  table,  the  plants  must  be  bleached.  This 
is  done  by  gathering  the  leaves  together  and  tying, 
to  exclude  the  light  and  air  from  the  inner  leaves, 
which  must  be  done  when  quite  dry,  or  they  will  rot. 
Another  method  is  to  cover  the  plants  with  boards 
or  slats.  In  three  or  four  weeks  they  will  be 
blanched." 

GINSENG. — A  hardy  perennial  plant  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  shady  places  in  many  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, the  roots  of  which  are  prized  for  medicinal  pur- 
poses by  the  Chinese.  Seeds  are  planted  in  the  fall 
but  usually  do  not  germinate  for  eighteen  months, 
and  not  at  all  if  not  expertly  handled;  therefore 
most  gardeners  who  want  to  grow  ginseng  buy 
young  plants  or  roots  of  some  professional  grower. 
The  roots  grow  slowly,  and  five  or  six  years  must 
elapse  before  they  are  large  enough  to  gather.  A 
sandy-loam  soil  and  partial  shade  are  best. 

Some  folks  seem  to  see  a  big  future  for  culti- 
vated ginseng ;  but  personal  observation  and  inquiry 
have  made  me  a  little  sceptical  about  it.  I  can  not 
advise  my  readers  to  invest  heavily  in  the  business 
nor  to  build  rosy  air-castles  on  possible  profits.  The 
Chinese  are  the  only  buyers  of  the  dried  roots,  and 
the  commercial  possibilities  of  the  business  are  there- 


144 


BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 


fore  limited.  I  hear,  too,  that  Chinese  buyers  dis- 
criminate in  favor  of  the  wild  root,  paying  a  less 
price  for  the  cultivated  product.  Altogether  it  looks 
to  me  as  if  the  market  might  easily  be  glutted — and 
then  what?  If  you  want  to  make  money,  better  let 
fads  alone  and  stick  to  the  staple  products  that 
everybody  wants.  For  further  information  write  to 
the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  and  ask  for 
bulletins  on  the  subject  of  ginseng  growing. 

HERBS. — These  are  of  three  kinds — pot  herbs  for 
flavoring,  sweet  herbs  and  medicinal  herbs.     It  is  a 
great  pity  that  herbs  are  now  seldom  raised  in  the 
home    garden.      The    use    of 
them   in   medicine   is   perhaps 
not    so    great    in    these    days 
when  a  doctor  can  be  readily 
called,  but  in  the  old  times  no 
housewife     was     without     a 
goodly   show  of  them  in  the 
yard,     and     she     dried    them 
carefully  for  winter  use.    Nor 
are   herbs   used   nowadays   so 
much    for   flavoring   in   cook- 
ing;  and,  when  they  are  de-    PUTTINGW?NWTER  us*?" 
sired,  the  pressed   leaves   are 

bought  at  the  druggist's.  The  home-grown  article  is 
far  better  than  money  can  buy.  A  home  with  even 
a  small  strip  of  land  can  find  place  for  some  of  these 
plants  which  are  so  valuable. 

Herbs  delight  in  a  rich,  mellow  soil.  Put  them 
in  a  corner  by  themselves  where  they  will  not  inter- 
fere with  plowing,  etc.  When  once  started,  little  if 
any  cultivation  is  needed  except  to  keep  out  weeds. 
Sow  seeds  early  in  spring  in  shallow  drills  about 
two  feet  apart;  when  up  a  few  inches  thin  out  to 


MISCELLANEOUS  145 

a  foot  or  more  apart.  Herbs  should  be  cut  on  a 
dry  day  just  before  they  come  into  full  blossom, 
tied  in  bunches  and  hung  up  in  the  attic  or  spread 
thinly  on  a  floor  where  they  can  dry  quickly.  Of 
course  cuttings  for  daily  use,  green,  may  be  made 
at  any  time,  but  too  severe  cutting  weakens  the  plants. 
Seedsmen  sell  plants,  ready  to  set,  of  some  of  the 
better-known  herbs.  Many  of  the  perennial  kinds 
may  be  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots — which  is 
a  good  thing  to  do  every  few  years ;  and,  when  doing 
so,  discard  the  old,  run-out  part  of  each  clump. 

Among  the  better-known  perennial  herbs  are  the 
following:  Balm,  catnip,  fennel,  horehound,  hyssop, 
lavender  (not  hardy  too  far  north),  sweet  marjoram, 
pennyroyal,  peppermint,  rosemary,  rue,  sage,  spear- 
mint, tansy,  tarragon,  thyme,  winter  savory,  worm- 
wood. Anise,  coriander,  summer  savory  and  sweet 
basil  are  annuals.  Caraway  and  dill  are  biennials. 
A  winter  mulch  of  straw  or  leaves  is  a  good  thing 
for  the  perennial  herbs. 

LEEK. — Used  in  cooking,  as  a  seasoning.  Milder 
than  the  onion.  Sow  early  in  April,  in  drills  one  foot 
apart  and  one  inch  deep.  When  plants  are  six  inches 
high,  transplant  in  a  deep,  rich  soil,  in  rows  twelve 
inches  apart  and  six  inches  in  the  rows,  as  deep  as 
possible,  so  that  the  neck  may  be  covered  and 
blanched;  draw  the  earth  to  them  as  they  grow. 
The  seed  may  also  be  sown  in  August  or  September 
and  plants  transplanted  in  the  spring.  The  thick 
leaves,  as  well  as  the  soft  bulb,  are  used.  Leeks 
may  be  stored  green,  with  the  roots  in  moist  earth, 
in  a  cool  cellar. 

MUSHROOM. — The  growing  of  mushrooms  in 
cellars,  sheds,  etc.,  is  sometimes  called  a  fad,  but — 
unlike  ginseng  culture — it  has  substantial  American 


146  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

market  possibilities.  There  is  a  steadily-growing  de- 
mand for  good,  fresh  mushrooms,  and  I  believe  that 
expert  growers,  properly  equipped,  can  make  money 
in  the  business.  But,  like  everything  else  that 
promises  so  well,  it  "isn't  so  easy  as  it  looks." 
Amateurs  should  not  expect  to  pick  up  many  dollars 
until  they  have  acquired  the  necessary  experience 
and  "knack."  The  culture  of  mushrooms  is  not, 
strictly  speaking,  within  the  scope  of  a  garden  book, 
and  therefore  I  have  not  room  to  go  into  details ; 
but  any  reader  who  is  interested  in  the  subject  can 
get  full  information  by  writing  to  the  U.  S.  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.,  and  asking 
for  free  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  204. 

MUSTARD. — Some  people  grow  this  for  salads. 
The  seeds  are  often  used  for  flavoring  pickles,  etc. 
For  salads,  sow  thickly  in  shallow  drills,  about  a 
foot  apart,  in  April.  Successive  sowings  may  be 
made  every  week  or  two.  To  grow  seed,  thin  out 
to  four  inches  apart  when  two  inches  high. 

OKRA. — More  grown  in  the  South  than  in  the 
North.  Often  called  "Gumbo."  The  dwarf  varieties 
are  best  for  northern  gardeners.  This  vegetable  is 
extensively  grown  for  its  green  pods,  which  are  used 
in  soups,  stews,  etc.,  to  which  they  impart  a  rich 
flavor,  and  are  considered  nutritious.  Sow  the  seed 
thickly  in  rich,  warm  ground  about  the  last  of  May 
(in  the  North),  in  drills  three  feet  apart,  one  inch 
deep ;  thin  to  one  foot  apart. 

PARSLEY. — A  hardy  biennial  plant  much  used  for 
garnishing  and  seasoning  soups,  meats,  etc.  Sow 
thickly  early  in  April  in  rows  one  foot  apart  and  one- 
half  inch  deep;  thin  out  the  plants  to  stand  six  inches 
apart  in  the  rows.  The  seed  germinates  very  slowly 
and  often  fails  to  come  up  in  dry  weather.  To  as- 


MISCELLANEOUS  147 

sist  its  coming  up  quicker,  soak  the  seed.  For  win- 
ter use  protect  in  a  coldframe  or  in  a  light  cellar. 

SPINACH. — For  spring  and  summer  use  in  the 
North,  sow  the  seed  either  broadcast,  or  in  drills  one 
foot  apart  and  one  inch  deep,  as  early  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked,  and  every  two  weeks  for  a  succession. 
For  winter  and  early  spring  use,  sow  in  September 
in  well-manured  ground;  cover  with  straw  or  leaves 
on  the  approach  of  severe  weather.  The  richer  the 
ground,  the  more  succulent  will  be  the  leaves.  For 
wintering,  sow  only  the  hardy,  prickly  variety.  Long- 
standing and  Victoria  are  good  kinds  for  summer 
use.  (The  large  New  Zealand  variety  should  be 
sown  in  hills  3x3  feet  apart,  four  seeds  to  a  hill.) 

Cardoon,  chervil,  chicory,  chives,  dandelion,  gar- 
lic, sorrel,  etc.,  are  listed  in  seedsmen's  catalogs, 
but  are  so  seldom  grown  in  American  gardens  that 
detailed  information  about  them  seems  unnecessary 
here. 


ENTRANCE     TO     A     < 
HEDGES    AND 


ARDEN.        NOTE     THE     NEATLY-CLIPPED      PRIVET 
SMALL   EVERGREENS,    AND    THE   ARCH    OF 
CRIMSON    RAMBLER    ROSES 


CHAPTER  XVI 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN 


'1  he  man  who  cheerfully  sets  the  spade  where  his  wife 
directs,  and  lends  himself  willingly  to  her  desires  in  the 
flower  garden,  has  in  him  the  vital  elements  of  good  citizen- 
ship and  is  a  safe  man  to  trust. — Tim. 

H,  for  the  return  of  the  old- 
fashioned  flower  garden !  Years 
ago  flowers  were  grown  in  bor- 
ders rather  than  in  beds — box- 
edged  borders  on  each  side  of 
a  rear  walk,  or  alongside  a 
fence  or  a  wall  or  a  building, 
rilled  with  a  profusion  of  old- 
time  favorites  growing  in  a  de- 
lightfully informal  mass  of  color 
and  variety.  In  those  days  the  nightmare  "beds" 
(dug  out  of  the  lawn  in  round  or  fanciful  shapes) 
filled  with  geraniums  or  foliage  plants  (set  straight 
and  exactly  even  all  around),  were  not  common. 

George  H.  Ellwanger,  in  The  Garden's  Story, 
touches  a  tender  spot  in  my  heart  when  he  says : 

"One  passes  many  neglected  farm-gardens  along 
the  road.  Here,  an  old  locust  and  mock-orange 
have  been  allowed  to  sprout  at  will :  the  blue  iris 
has  crept  outside  the  fence,  with  clumps  of  double 
daffodils  turned  over  by  the  plow  and  flung  on  to 
the  roadside.  There  is  a  jungle  of  stunted  quinces 
and  blighted  pear  trees.  The  spreading  myrtle 
patch  has  usurped  the  place  of  what  was  once  a 
lawn;  tall  thistles,  hog-weed,  pig-weed  and  burdocks 


I5O  HIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

make  and  scatter  seed  year  after  year;  an  army  of 
weeds  has  overrun  the  path — the  plantain,  purslane, 
goose-grass,  dandelion,  joint-weed  and  mallow;  and 
a  green  goose-pond,  over  which  are  hovering  yellow 
butterflies,  exhales  its  miasma  in  the  sun.  Once  the 
garden  was  beautiful,  famous  for  its  old-fashioned 
flowers,  and  many  were  the  slips  the  neighbors  ob- 
tained from  its  floral  stores.  The  grain-fields  and 
fat  pastures  corresponded  with  the  luxuriance  within. 
But  the  farm  changed  hands  on  the  death  of  the 
owner,  and  the  new  owners  cared  little  for  the 
flowers." 

In  the  hope  that  my  readers  may  be  induced  to 
reclaim  the  old  gardens  or  start  new  ones  along  the 
old  lines,  I  will  give  a  condensed  and  partial  list  of 
the  plants,  etc.,  that  Harriet  and  I  (and  some  of  the 
friends  whom  we've  consulted)  think  should  be 
included  in  an  old-fashioned  flower  border : 

HARDY  PERENNIAL  PLANTS  AND  BULBS 

Anemone  Japonica  (also  called  Japanese  anem- 
one) :  Grows  two  or  three  feet  high.  Blooms  from 
August  until  frost.  Needs  slight  protection  in  win- 
ter in  extreme  North.  White  or  pink  varieties  may 
be  had. 

Bleeding-heart  (dielytra  or  dicentra)  :  An  old- 
time  favorite.  Bears  heart-shaped  flowers  in  grace- 
ful, drooping,  pinkish  racemes,  in  May-June.  Fern- 
like  foliage  about  two  feet  high. 

Campanula  (Canterbury  bells;  bellflower)  : 
There  are  a  number  of  perennial  varieties,  but  none 
so  beautiful  and  satisfactory  as  the  biennial  single 
varieties  called  "medium"  and  "calycanthema."  The 
latter  is  the  well-known  cup-and-saucer  kind.  Both 
come  in  various  colors,  but  the  whites  and  the  pinks 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  151 

are  the  prettiest.  Sow  the  seed  any  time  from  April 
to  July,  and  you  should  have  nice  plants  in  bloom 
in  June  of  the  following  year.  By  picking  off  the 
blossoms  as  soon  as  they  fade,  the  plants  may  be  kept 
in  bloom  about  six  weeks ;  then  pull  them  up  and 
plant  something  in  their  place,  for  biennials  bloom 
only  one  season. 

Candytuft  (iberis  or  hardy  candytuft)  :  A  low- 
growing  plant  suitable  for  the  foreground  of  borders. 
White  flowers  in  early  spring. 

Cardinal  Flower  (lobelia  cardinalis)  :  Blooms 
in  spikes  of  brilliant  cardinal-red,  in  August-Sep- 
tember. Plants  about  two  feet  high. 

Chrysanthemum,  Hardy :  Grows  about  two  feet 
high.  Several  varieties  and  colors.  Flowers  in  late 
summer  and  until  frost. 

Columbine  (aquilegia)  :  Height,  one  to  three 
feet — according  to  variety.  White,  red,  yellow,  blue 
and  pink.  May-June ;  some  varieties  later.  Succeeds 
in  almost  any  soil  but  does  best  in  partial  shade. 

Coreopsis :  Blooms  June-September.  Height 
about  two  feet.  Lanceolata  grandiflora  is  a  popular 
variety.  Yellow. 

Crocus :  Fine  for  early-spring  bloom.  Plant 
the  bulbs  not  later  than  early  October  in  the  North, 
in  fine,  rich,  deep,  well-drained  soil.  Mulch  with  a 
little  strawy  manure,  or  leaves,  or  straw  alone. 
Remove  mulch  in  early  spring.  Divide  and  trans- 
plant the  bulbs  every  three  or  four  years.  Plant 
crocuses  in  colonies  along  the  front  of  your  flower 
borders,  three  inches  deep  and  two  or  three  inches 
apart — using  fifty  or  more  bulbs  of  a  color  in  a  mass 
if  you  want  the  best  effect.  Purpurea  grandiflora  is 
a  splendid  purple  kind,  and  Reine  Blanche  an  excel- 
lent white,  Crocuses  can  be  set  in  the  lawn,  but  in 


152  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

such  a  situation  they  are  not  apt  to  last  longer  than 
about  two  years. 

Daffodils,  Jonquils  and  Poet's  Narcissus  are 
planted  and  divided  the  same  as  crocuses ;  but  set 
them  about  an  inch  deeper  and  about  two  inches 
farther  apart.  They  object  to  much  stable  manure, 
and  do  well  in  semi-shade. 

Day  Lily:  The  best-known  variety  is  hemero- 
callis  flava.  It  grows  about  three  feet  high  and  has 
deep  lemon-yellow  flowers  in  June-July. 

Delphinium  (perennial  larkspuj;)  :  More  hardy 
borders  should  contain  these  stately,  beautiful 
flowers.  Belladonna  is  a  fine  new  variety  growing 
about  three  feet  high,  with  exquisite  sky-blue  flowers. 
Formosum  grows  four  or  five  feet  high,  and  the 
blossoms  are  deep,  rich  blue.  The  two  varieties  go 
well  together.  Put  Belladonna  in  front,  space  the 
plants  two  feet  apart  each  way  and  await  develop- 
ments !  But  don't  expect  too  much  the  first  year. 
As  soon  as  a  stalk  is  through  blooming,  cut  it  off  at 
the  ground,  and  new  stalks  and  bloom  will  soon 
come. 

Flag  (blue  flag;  iris)  :  Since  the  blue  flag  of 
our  grandmothers'  time,  the  iris  has  been  improved 
and  new  kinds  introduced,  until  now  there  is  a  nice 
list  of  German  iris,  Japanese  iris,  etc.,  which  bloom 
at  different  times,  prolonging  the  season  from  May 
into  July.  Buy  one  or  more  "clumps,"  of  seedsmen, 
set  them  out  in  the  fall,  mulch  through  the  winter, 
and  "watch  'em  grow." 

Forget-me-not :  A  low-growing  plant.  Sky-blue 
flowers  that  everybody  loves.  Set  the  plants  in  a 
shady  place,  if  possible. 

Foxglove  (jdigitajj^)  :  June- July.  Flower  stalks 
on  well-grown  plants  are  from  three  to  five  feet  high. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  153 

White  and  rose-pink  are  the  most  pleasing,  Harriet 
thinks.  Digitalis  is  a  biennial  and  should  be  grown 
the  same  as  campanula  medium.  The  plants  like 
shade. 

Funkia  (plantain  lily)  :  Foliage  and  flowers 
both  attractive.  Many  varieties  and  colors.  Blooms 
July- August.  Plants  about  a  foot  and  a  half  high. 

Grasses :  Clumps  of  the  various  ornamental 
grasses  might  well  be  included  in  the  back  corners 
of  the  border.  Their  leaves  are  almost  as  striking 
as  some  flowers.  Our  special  favorites  are  the  "Japan 
rush"  (eulalia  gracillima  univittata),  and  "zebra 
grass"  (eulalia  Japonica  zebrina) — the  latter  being 
marked  with  bands  across  the  leaf. 

Hibiscus  (jTTju^sJimallow )  :  Grows  about  five 
feet  high.  Blooms ~  August-September.  Large, 
showy,  pink  flowers.  (Meehan's  Mallow  Marvel  is 
a  recent  introduction  of  distinct  and  superior  merit. 
The  plants  grow  as  high  as  a  man  and  I  never  saw 
more  gorgeous  pink,  red,  white,  etc.,  flowers.  Be 
sure  to  plant  some  of  these ;  they  begin  to  flower  in 
July  and  are  in  bloom  a  long  time. 

Holtyhock :  A  general  favorite.  Single  or 
double  varieties.  Height  five  to  eight  feet.  Various 
colors.  July-August.  They  like  a  deep,  rich,  well- 
drained  soil,  and  appreciate  a  mulch-protection  in 
the  winter.  A  fungous  disease  often  attacks  them, 
but  early  sprayings  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture 
should  prevent  it. 

Hyacinth  :  Fine  for  early  spring  bloom.  Various 
colors.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  well-drained  soil  early 
in  October,  five  inches  deep  and  about  six  inches 
apart.  For  best  results,  buy  only  first-grade  named 
varieties.  Mulch  the  ground  during  the  winter. 

Larkspur   (see  delphinium). 


154 


BIGGLE    GARDEN    BOOK 


Lily:     I  could  write  a  chapter  about  these,  but, 
alas !    space    forbids.      Among    the    many    excellent 
varieties     I     can     mention 
the      following : 
candidum — white, 


LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY— A   GREAT 
FAVORITE  OF   HARRIET'S 


Lilium 
blooms 

in  June  with  the  peren- 
nial larkspurs,  and  is 
sometimes  called  "annun- 
ciation" or  "madonna" 
lily ;  lilium  auratum,  also 
called  "gold-banded  lily  of 
Japan,"  blooms  in  late 
summer ;  lilium  tigrinum 
splendens,  or  "tiger  lily," 
spotted  orange  color;  lil- 
ium speciosum  album,  large  white  flowers  with  a 
greenish  band  through  the  center  of  each  petal ; 
lilium  speciosum  rubrum,  white,  heavily  spotted  with 
rosy  spots ;  lily-of-the-valley  is  last  but  not  least — a 
home  is  incomplete  without  a  group  of  these  lowly 
little  beauties.  All  lilies  like  partial  shade;  lily-of- 
the-valley  will  do  best  in  full  shade.  Lilium  candi- 
dum should  be  set  only  about  two  inches  deep,  dur- 
ing August  or  early  September ;  lily-of-the-valley 
can  best  be  moved  in  October,  and  should  also  be 
planted  shallow.  The  other  lilies  mentioned  may  be 
set  in  late  fall  or  early  spring,  as  you  prefer,  and 
may  be  set  six  or  eight  inches  deep  in  well-drained 
soil.  Sprinkling  sulphur  on  the  bulbs  and  putting 
some  sand  beneath  and  around  them,  helps  to  keep 
them  from  rotting. 

Myrtle :  A  well-known  evergreen  trailing  plant 
with  blue  flowers  in  spring.  Does  well  almost  any- 
where and  spreads  rapidly. 

Pasony :      Has    been    greatly    improved    of    late 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  155 

years.  Set  the  plants  in  the  fall  in  deep,  rich,  well- 
drained  soil ;  space  at  least  two  and  one-half  feet 
apart ;  mulch  in  winter. 

Phlox,  Hardy:  Assorted  colors  and  heights,  ac- 
cording to  variety.  Phloxes  are  among  the  very 
showiest  and  most  valuable  of  all  hardy  plants,  and 
by  growing  a  complete  collection  they  can  be  had 
in  bloom  from  spring  until  fall.  The  old  varieties 
have  given  way  to  the  beautiful  hybrid  sorts  of 
handsome  shades  of  pink,  red,  salmon,  rose,  etc.,  in 
distinct  colors.  They  should  be  in  every  garden,  as 
they  succeed  in  almost  any  position  with  little  care. 
Every  few  years  the  clumps  should  be  dug  up,  divided 
and  reset. 

Pink :  Delightful  low-growing  flowers.  Who 
doesn't  remember  the  "moss"  or  "mountain"  or 
"clove"  pink  of  his  boyhood  days?  There  are  now 
some  newer,  named  varieties  that  are  almost  as  fine 
as  carnations. 

Poppy :  Many  people  do  not  know  that  the  Ice- 
land and  the  Oriental  varieties  are  hardy  perennials, 
and  quite  unlike  the  Shirley  or  annual  kinds.  Be 
sure  to  have  a  few  of  these  in  your  border. 

Pyrethrum  :  Daisy-like  flowers  of  various  colors. 
Two  feet.  There  are  now  double  varieties. 

Rr.dbeckia :  The  variety  called  Golden  Glow  is 
the  most  popular  nowadays.  Grows  six  feet  high. 

Starworts  (hardy  aster  or  Michaelmas  daisy)  : 
Desirable  additions  to  the  garden,  because  the  differ- 
ent varieties  bloom  late  when  few  hardy  plants  are 
in  flower.  Various  colors  and  heights. 

Sweet-william :  A  great  favorite.  About  eighteen 
inches  high.  Various  colors.  June. 

Tulip :  Plant  them  in  early  October  about  four 
inches  deep  and  five  or  six  inches  apart.  It  is  not 


156  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

necessary  to  take  up  the  bulbs  every  year,  although 
an  occasional  dividing  and  transplanting  is  desirable. 
After  the  flowers  and  leaves  die  down,  remove  them 
in  early  summer  and — if  you  wish — stir  the  soil 
lightly  and  sow  flower  seed  of  some  kind,  so  that 
the  ground  may  be  occupied  without  disturbing  the 
bulbs  beneath. 

Violet,  Sweet :  Partial  shade  is  acceptable.  Be 
sure  to  save  a  place  for  these  blue  beauties. 

Yucca  (Spanish  bayonet  or  Adam's  needle)  : 
An  evergreen  plant  somewhat  resembling  a  century 
plant.  Flowers  borne  in  spikes  on  tall  flower-stalks. 

GENERAL  REMARKS  AND  CULTURAL  HINTS. — Nu- 
merous additions  might  be  made  to  the  foregoing  list, 
but  the  varieties  mentioned  will  serve  as  an  excellent 
beginning  and  the  flower-lover  can  try  other  kinds 
from  time  to  time.  (There's  always  room  for  "one 
more"  in  an  informal  border,  says  Martha.)  In 
regard  to  planting  and  culture,  perennials  may  be 
grown  from  seed  sown  outdoors  any  time  from  early 
May  to  late  July,  and  transplanted  to  the  border 
the  following  fall  or  spring ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in 
their  permanent  places  and  thinned  out  when  well  up. 
Or  plants  or  bulbs  may  be  purchased  of  seedsmen, 
thus  saving  time  and  bother.  Distances  apart  need 
not  be  exactly  considered,  for  straight  rows  are  to  be 
avoided  in  the  border ;  simply  have  the  plants  so  they 
do  not  unduly  crowd  each  other,  and  thin  them  out 
from  time  to  time  as  their  growth  may  require.  Have 
the  low-growing  kinds  toward  the  front  edge,  the  me- 
dium growers  in  the  middle,  and  the  tall  varieties  at 
the  rear.  The  flower  colors  should  be  arranged  in  a 
pleasing  way — as  if  you  were  painting  a  picture  or 
composing  a  harmony.  Avoid  jarring  combinations; 
use  plenty  of  white  to  separate  strong  colors,  and 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  157 

leave  out  doubtful  shades  that  are  likely  to  clash — 

magentas,     reddish-purples,,    bluish-reds,     etc. ;     have 

only  pure  reds,  pinks,  blues  and  white;  put  yellows 

away    somewhere   by   themselves — and   you    can    not 

help   but   have    harmony   in   the   border.      Keep    out 

weeds,  keep  the   soil   loose  and  mellow.     Late   each 

fall   apply   a   mulch   of 

strawy  manure ;  remove 

the  coarser  parts  of  the 

mulch      in      the      early 

spring,  carefully  loosen 

up  the  surface  soil  with 

a    hoe    and    a    narrow 

eight-tooth     rake,     and 

apply    a    sprinkle    of 

hnnp    mpn1  REMOVE  THE  MULCH  IN  EARLY  SPRING 

AND    CAREFULLY   LOOSEN    UP 

Prepare  the  border  THE  TOP  SOIL 

for  planting  by  spading 

it  deeply  (a  foot  at  least)  and  working  in  a  quantity 
of  well-rotted  manure  and  some  bone  meal. 

In  regard  to  setting  out  plants,  J.  T.  Lovett 
says :  "Some  persons  prefer  autumn  planting  and 
others  claim  spring  to  be  the  better  season.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  neither  spring  nor  fall  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred for  the  entire  list  of  varieties.  Beyond  ques- 
tion preony,  phlox,  dicentra,  day  lily,  etc.,  make  the 
best  growth  when  planted  in  autumn ;  while  Japanese 
anemone,  foxglove,  Canterbury  bells,  hollyhock, 
sweet-william  and  some  others  frequently  perish  the 
first  winter  if  planted  in  the  fall." 

FLOWERING  SHRUBS. — Somewhere  in  the  garden 
there  should  be  at  least  a  few  of  the  hardy  shrubs 
to  supplement  the  perennial  plants  already  mentioned. 
They  may  be  set  along  the  back  line  of  the  flower 
border ;  or  may  be  set  in  a  border  or  bed  by  them- 


158  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

selves,  putting  the  tall-growing  kinds  to  the  rear  (or 
center)  and  the  lower  kinds  in  front.  (Distances 
apart  vary  from  two  to  four  or  five  or  six  feet,  ac- 
cording to  variety.)  Here  is  a  short  suggestive  list 
of  shrubs:  Althea  (high-growing,  late-blooming); 
azalea  (hardy  kinds,  low,  early)  ;  barberry  (Thun- 
bergi  is  best-known  variety,  low,  red  berries)  ;  deut- 
zia  (both  dwarf  and  tall-growing  kinds)  ;  forsythia 
(golden  flowers  very  early,  medium  height)  ;  hy- 
drangea paniculata  grandiflora  (splendid  late 
bloomer,  plant  in  masses,  prune  new  wood  closely 
each  year,  attains  good  size  in  time);  lilac;  rhodo- 
dendron (prefers  shade,  different  sizes  and  colors, 
not  hardy  too  far  north,  requires  no  pruning)  ;  snow- 
ball ;  spirea  (various  kinds,  heights  and  colors — 
plant  several;  sweet-scented  shrub  (a  favorite  of 
our  grandmothers')  ;  syringa  or  mock-orange;  wei- 
gela. 

Pruning  and  care  of  shrubs :  Keep  the  surface 
of  the  ground  loose  and  mellow.  Mulch  with  strawy 
manure  in  fall.  Prune  early-blooming  shrubs  as 
soon  as  bloom  has  ceased;  prune  late  bloomers  early 
the  following  spring.  Little  if  any  pruning  is  needed 
the  first  few  years,  but  the  shrubs  should  be  well 
"cut  back"  at  time  of  setting.  There  is  no  particular 
science  about  pruning  shrubs,  other  than  the  points 
already  mentioned;  simply  thin  out,  trim  up  or  cut 
back,  as  taste  or  circumstances  may  require. 

ROSES.— No  garden  is  quite  complete  without  a 
rose  bed.  I  have  not  space  to  mention  the  many 
excellent  varieties  here,  but  be  sure  to  plant  some 
of  the  hybrid  perpetuals — Baroness  Rothschild,  pink ; 
Fran  Karl  Druschki,  pure  white;  General  Jacque- 
minot, crimson ;  Gloire  Lyonnaise,  white,  tinted 
yellow ;  Mrs.  John  Laing,  pink ;  Mrs.  R.  G.  S.  Craw- 


ford,  rosy  pink ;  Paul  Neyron,  deep  rose  color ; 
Ulrich  Brunner,  cherry  red,  are  among  the  most 
satisfactory  kinds.  Hybrid  perpetuals  are  quite 
hardy  nearly  everywhere,  but  a  heavy  mulch  of 
leaves  or  straw  through  the  winter  is  always  helpful. 
Although  called  "perpetuals,"  they  are  not  really  per- 
petual bloomers ;  but  many  of  them  will  produce 
more  than  one  crop  of  flowers  in  a  season. 

The  hybrid-tea  roses  are  more  tender,  but  are 
all-season  bloomers  if  well  cared  for.  In  the  North, 
bend  the  branches  down  to  the  ground  and  stake 
them  there  in  late  autumn  and  apply  stable  manure, 
and  on  top  of  that  a  thick  covering  of  straw  or 
leaves,  held  securely  against  winds  by  wire  chicken- 
netting  laid  flat  and  fastened  along  the  edges  with 
stakes.  Remove  the  covering  in  late  April.  Good 
varieties  are :  Caroline  Testout,  bright  rose  color ; 
Gruss  an  Teplitz,  scarlet;  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria, 
creamy  white ;  Killarney,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
pink  roses  in  existence;  La  France,  silvery  pink, 
very  attractive.  There  are  many  other  good  kinds. 

Tea  roses  are  very  free-flowering,  but  are  almost 
too  tender  for  growing  outdoors  in  the  North,  even 
if  protected  with  straw.  In  the  greenhouse  or  in  the 
South,  they  are  fine. 

Then  there  are  those  old  favorites,  the  moss 
roses  and  the  sweetbriars.  The  Rugosa  roses,  of 
Japanese  origin,  are  hardy  and  interesting;  the  seed- 
pods  are  quite  ornamental.  Wichuriana  is  a  low- 
trailing  species  producing  white  flowers  in  July  after 
the  June  roses  are  through  blooming.  The  dwarf 
Polyantha  roses  bear  pleasing  clusters  of  dainty 
small  flowers  all  summer ;  Pink  Baby  Rambler  is 
one  of  the  best.  There  are  also  a  Crimson  Baby 
Rambler  and  a  White  Baby  Rambler. 


i6o 


BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 


Pruning,  culture  and  rose-bugs :  Cut  off  the 
upper  one-third  of  each  main  shoot  in  the  spring; 
cut  out  all  dead  or  diseased  wood  at  any  time;  ever- 
blooming  roses  may  be  cut  back  again  after  the  June 
flowering,  which  induces  further  bloom.  Keep  the 
ground  well  stirred  all  through  the  growing  season ; 
spade  deeply  before  planting;  set  plants  about  two 
feet  apart  (more  or  less  according  to  variety)  ;  re- 
member that  roses  like  a  very  rich  clay-loam  soil 
with  sufficient  moisture.  Rose-bugs  are  the  worst 
pest,  generally,  and  no  very  good  remedies  are 
known.  Cover  the  bushes  with  mosquito-netting,  or 
knock  the  bugs  into  a  pan  of  kerosene  twice  a  day, 
or  spray  with  arsenate  of  lead  as  suggested  in  Chap- 
ter V.  (For  other  enemies,  see  general  remarks  and 
hints  on  pages  165  and  166.) 

CLIMBING  VINES. — These  as  a  rule  do  not  belong 
in  the  border,  but  should  find  a  place  somewhere  in 

or  near  the  garden — 
on  porch,  house,  wall, 
lattice  screen,  or 
climbing  upon  a  dead 
tree-trunk,  post  or 
fence.  Dorothy  Per- 
kins, Thousand  Beau- 
ties, Gardenia,  Crim- 
son Rambler,  Prairie 
Queen,  etc.,  are  hardy 
climbing  roses  that 
succeed  almost  every- 
where (give  slight 
protection  the  first  two  years  in  extreme  northern 
localities,  by  laying  the  vines  down  and  covering  dur- 
ing the  winter).  Boston  ivy,  trumpet  flower,  honey- 
suckles of  various  kinds,  wistaria  and  clematis  are 

-7  ^~ — r 


ENTRANCE   TO    A    LONG    ISLAND    GAR- 
DEN.     ARBOR  COVERED  WITH  CLEM- 
ATIS   PANICULATA,  ETC. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  l6l 

all  good  in  their  proper  places.  The  flowers  of  clem- 
atis paniculata  and  clematis  Jackmani  are  espe- 
cially attractive.  Little  if  any  pruning  is  necessary, 
except  to  cut  out  dead  or  diseased  wood  at  any 
time,  and  to  remove  surplus  or  not-wanted  growth 
in  the  spring.  Cultivate  a  circle  of  ground  around 
the  roots,  and  mulch  with  stable  manure. 

ANNUAL  PLANTS  AND  VINES. — Planting  flower 
seed  every  year  is  a  bother,  but  flower  lovers  can 
not  quite  get  along  without  some  of  their  favorite 
one-season  bloomers.  I  can  only  mention  a  few  of 
the  best-known : 

Aster :  The  various  annual  varieties  permit  of 
a  blooming  season  from  July  until  frost.  Sow  seed 
in  window  boxes  in  early  spring  and  transplant  in 
May;  or  sow  seed  outdoors  about  May  ist. 

Canna :  Not  easy  to  grow  from  seed  (see  hints 
under  Moonflower).  Better  buy  roots  of  a  seeds- 
man. Set  in  rich,  moist  soil  about  fifteen  inches 
apart  June  ist  or  when  danger  of  frost  is  over. 
In  the  fall  after  a  heavy  frost,  cut  off  tops  near  the 
ground;  later,  before  ground  freezes,  dig  roots,  dry 
them  well  in  the  sun,  and  store  in  a  cool  cellar.  The 
roots  need  dividing  every  year  or  so. 

Dahlia :  May  be  grown  from  seed,  but  most 
people  prefer  to  buy  roots  of  a  seedsman  and  plant 
out  about  May  I5th,  or  when  the  weather  is  warm 
and  settled.  Earlier  bloom  may  be  secured  by  start- 
ing the  roots  in  boxes  in  the  house  three  weeks  ahead 
of  outdoor  planting  time.  Tie  the  plants  to  stakes, 
for  support.  Have  the  ground  rich.  After  frost  has 
blackened  the  vines,  cut  them  off  near  the  ground. 
Dig  the  roots  on  a  sunny  day,  dry  them  well,  and 
store  in  a  cool  cellar.  The  roots  may  be  divided  from 
time  to  time,  and  the  surplus  used  or  sold.  (Divide 


l62  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

with  a  sharp  knife;  see  that  a  part  of  old  stem,  with 
a  bud,  is  attached  to  each  tuber.) 

Gladiolus :  Plant  the  bulbs  any  time  in  May  or 
June,  about  four  inches  deep  and  six  inches  apart. 
The  flower  stalks  often  need  some  support.  Succes- 
sive plantings  may  be  made  until  July  ist,  if  a  long 
season  of  bloom  is  desired.  After  frost  comes,  dig 
the  bulbs,  and  when  well  dried  in  the  sun  cut  off 
each  stalk  about  six  inches  above  the  bulb;  store  in 
a  dry,  frost-proof  place.  The  bulbs  increase  rapidly 
each  year. 

Larkspur :  The  annual  kinds  are  easy  to  grow — 
pink,  red,  blue,  white,  etc.  The  double  stock-flowered 
larkspur  is  especially  good.  Sow  in  late  April ;  trans- 
plant or  thin  out;  look  for  flowers  in  July-August; 
plants  grow  about  two  feet  high. 

Marigold :  The  African  varieties  grow  about 
two  feet  high  and  bear  large  yellow  or  orange-col- 
ored flowers ;  the  French  kinds  are  more  dwarf  in 
habit,  usually  with  striped  colors.  Raise  plants  in- 
doors or  in  frames  in  early  spring  and  transplant  to 
open  ground  in  May ;  or  sow  seed  outdoors  in  May. 

Moonflower :  Large  white  flowers  opening  in 
the  evening.  A  strong  climber.  Best  to  start  seeds 
in  the  house  in  March  and  transplant  in  May,  or 
buy  plants  of  a  seedsman.  The  seeds  germinate 
slowly  and  uncertainly.  File  or  cut  a  small  notch 
through  the  hard  coat  or  shell  of  each  seed,  keeping 
away  from  the  germinating  point,  and  the  seeds  will 
sprout  more  quickly.  (This  hint  also  applies  to 
canna  or  other  large  hard  seeds.)  Note:  There  is 
a  variety  of  moonflower  which  is  a  hardy  perennial , 
but  the  foliage  is  not  attractive. 

Morning-glory:  A  climbing  favorite.  Sow  in 
early  May,  and  give  the  vines  something  to  run  on. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  163 

The  Imperial  Japanese  kinds  are  larger  and  finer 
colored  than  the  old-fashioned  sorts. 

Nasturtium :  There  are  dwarf  varieties  and  tall 
or  climbing  kinds.  They  like  a  well-drained,  sunny 
place,  and  will  blossom  until  frost  comes.  Usually 
sown  outdoors  about  May  ist. 

Pansy:  Does  best  in  partial  shade.  For  very 
early  spring  flowering  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  cold- 
frames  in  autumn;  or  in  the  open  ground,  plants 
well  protected  with  straw  or  leaves  through  the 
winter ;  or  sow  seed  indoors  in  March  and  trans- 
plant to  the  open  ground  in  April.  For  summer 
blooming,  sow  seed  outdoors  in  April.  Pick  the 
flowers  often,  so  that  none  will  go  to  seed. 

Pea,  Sweet:  Likes  a  deep,  heavy  loam.  Sow 
in  early  spring  in  drills  about  six  inches  deep;  cover 
only  about  two  inches  deep  at  first,  filling  in  the 
remaining  four  inches  when  the  plants  are  a  foot 
high.  Support  the  vines  on  wire-netting,  brush,  etc. 
Pick  the  flowers  often;  allow  none  to  go  to  seed — 
this  is  important  if  you  want  a  long  blooming  season. 

Petunia :  The  double  petunias  are  handsome, 
but  the  single  kinds  are  entirely  satisfactory.  I 
usually  sow  the  seed  outdoors  May  ist  and  thin  the 
plants  to  about  ten  inches  apart;  however,  earlier 
bloom  may  be  had  by  starting  the  plants  in  window 
boxes  indoors  and  transplanting  them  in  May. 

Phlox  Drummondi :  This  is  one  of  Harriet's 
favorite  annuals.  She  likes  to  have  a  solid  mass  of 
it  somewhere;  composed  of  separate  white,  crimson, 
pink  and  yellow  kinds ;  this  gives  a  better  effect  than 
the  ordinary  mixtures  sold.  (The  same  rule  holds 
true  with  sweet  peas  and  some  other  flowers ;  buy 
and  plant  each  color  by  itself  and  the  result  is  more 
pleasing.)  Grow  the  same  as  petunias. 


164  BIGGLE   GARDEN    BOOK 

Pink  (dianthus)  :  The  double  and  single  annual 
varieties  are  both  pretty,  although  they  are  lacking 
in  odor.  Sow  the  seed  outdoors  about  May  1st; 
thin  to  six  inches.  If  the  plants  are  protected  with 
manure  they  often  bloom  the  second  year. 

Poppy :  Be  sure  to  grow  some  Shirley  poppies ; 
also  some  of  the  double  kinds.  Sow  seed  in  April 
and  thin  the  plants  so  they'll  stand  at  least  six  inches 
apart ;  do  not  transplant. 

Verbena :  For  best  results,  sow  seed  in  window 
boxes  or  hotbeds  in  early  spring  and  transplant  to 
the  open  ground  in  May;  or  sow  outdoors  in  May. 

Zinnia :  Grown  in  the  same  manner  as  petunias ; 
the  mixtures  are  hideous,  buy  separate  colors. 

Then  there  are  a  host  of  other  annuals — candy- 
tuft, cosmos,  gillyflower  or  stock,  mignonette,  lady- 
slipper,  portulaca,  sweet  alyssum,  etc.,  etc., — which 
I  have  not  room  to  touch  upon  here.  But  they  are 
nearly  all  of  easy  culture  and  the  grower  needs  no 
special  knowledge. 

As  for  the  many  kinds  of  so-called  "house 
plants"  that  are  often  moved  in  pots  to  the  garden 
in  summer  time,  I  can  only  say :  Beware  of  setting 
them  out  too  early;  toughen  them  first  by  letting 
them  stand  on  a  sheltered  porch  for  a  few  days, 
protecting  them  with  newspapers  or  cloths  during 
cold  nights.  Boston  ferns  and  other  house  ferns 
are  improved  by  sinking  the  pots  to  the  brim  in  the 
ground  in  a  place  outdoors  sheltered  from  hard 
winds  and  partially  or  wholly  shaded;  thus  treated 
(and  occasionally  sprinkled  with  water)  they  will 
"renew  their  beauty"  for  another  winter. 

INSECT  AND  FUNGOUS  ENEMIES. — Only  a  few 
general  remarks  are  possible  here.  A  careful  study 
of  Chapter  V  should  help  the  flower  grower  to  decide 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  1 6$ 

upon  a  remedy  for  almost  any  trouble.  Does  the 
insect  eat?  Then  arsenate  of  lead,  hellebore,  etc., 
will  kill  it.  Or,  if  it  does  not  eat  foliage  or  flowers, 
musn't  it  suck  the  juices  from  leaf  or  branch  by 
inserting  its  beak  inside  where  stomach  poisons  can 
not  go?  Then  one  of  the  contact  poisons  or  lice 
remedies  is  the  proper  thing  to  use.  Is  it  a  fungous 
trouble  not  caused  by  any  insect?  Then  half-strength 
Bordeaux  is  probably  best;  or  perhaps  sulphur  for 
mildew.  Or  if  both  insects  and  fungi  are  at  work, 
try  a  combination  of  arsenate  of  lead  and  half- 
strength  Bordeaux. 

Some  of  the  shrubs — notably  the  lilac — are  very 
subject  to  a  scale  pest  called  the  oyster-shell  bark- 
louse.  The  scales  can  be  plainly  seen,  without  the 
aid  of  a  glass,  On  the  branches — brown  in  color  and 
shaped  something  like  an  elongated  oyster-shell. 
Remedy:  Spray  with  the  whale-oil  soap  solution 
about  the  middle  of  May.  There  is  also  a  scurfy 
scale  which  looks  like  a  tiny,  oblong  flake  of  cotton. 
Use  same  remedy  as  for  oyster-shell  scale.  Last,  but 
most  dangerous,  is  the  San  Jose  scale.  This  is  a 
round,  dark  scale  with  a  central  dot  or  nipple,  and 
is  not  easy  to  see  without  the  aid  of  a  magnifying 
glass.  It  attacks  and  kills  many  shrubs,  osage  orange 
hedges,  trees,  etc.  The  lime-sulphur  mixture  is  the 
standard  remedy  for  San  Jose.  Seedsmen  sell  it  by 
the  quart  or  gallon,  ready-mixed.  Or  if  you  have 
many  shrubs  or  trees  affected,  write  to  your  state 
experiment  station  or  to  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  ask  for  bulletins 
about  making  and  spraying  the  lime-sulphur  mixture. 
The  time  to  use  it  is  after  the  leaves  are  off — in  the 
late  fall  or  very  early  spring.  Make  a  thorough  job 
of  it,  and  do  not  delay. 


i66 


BIGGLE    GARDEN    BOOK 


If  the  flower  garden  has  a  garden  hose  and  water 
under  pressure,  most  insects  can  be  controlled  by 
throwing  the  water  forcibly  all  over  the  plants  every 
day  or  so  (but  do  not  do  this  when  the  hot  sun  is 
shining  on  them).  This  knocks  off  nearly  all  kinds 
of  bugs,  lice,  etc.  (not  scale  insects),  and  they  soon 
get  discouraged  and  disappear. 


POND     LILIES     AND     DOROTHY      PERKINS     ROSES 


CHAPTER  XVII 
SMALL  FRUITS 

The   berry   garden   is  just   the   place 
Where  summer  lends  peculiar  grace. 
What  possibilities  may  lie 
In   things   drawn   from   its   rich   supply! 

*IRST,  let  us  talk  about  strawberries. 
April  is  the  best  month  in  the  North 
to  set  the  plants.  Select  almost  any 
kind  of  good,  well-drained  land  on 
which  some  hoed  crop  was  grown  last 
season.  The  soil  should  be  deeply 
plowed,  enriched  with  manure  and  fer- 
tilizers and  harrowed  until  fine  and 
mellow.  Dig  or  buy  plants  from  beds 
set  last  season  which  have  not  yet 
fruited,  so  as  not  to  get  "little  potato'*' 
runners  from  old,  worn-out  plants.  Select  well- 
tested  varieties  that  do  well  in  your  climate  and  soil, 
and  which  are  liked  in  your  local  markets.  For  horse 
cultivation  many  growers  set  the  plants  in  rows 
about  four  feet  apart,  and  about  eighteen  inches  apart 
in  the  row  (7,260  plants  to  the  acre).  Spread  the 
roots  out  well  and  deep ;  tread  the  soil  firmly  about 
each  plant ;  see  that  the  crown  of  plant  is  level  with 
ground,  and  uncovered  but  not  too  high ;  pick  off 
all  blossoms,  runners,  old  and  dead  leaves,  and  keep 
blossoms  and  fruit  off  during  the  first  season.  When 
setting  plants,  avoid  drying  the  roots  by  exposure 
to  sun  or  wind,  and  reject  all  small,  feeble,  or  old 
plants  with  dark-looking  roots.  Read  Chapter  III 


1 68  HIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

for  general  planting  hints.  Before  setting,  many 
growers  practise  shearing  or  cutting  about  one-third 
off  the  ends  of  all  roots.  Remember  that  strawberry 
plants  are  either  pistillate  (imperfect  blossoms)  or 
staminate  (perfect).  Most  growers  insure  good  fer- 
tilization of  blossoms  (without  which  the  pistillate 
varieties  can  not  produce  fruit)  by  setting  one  row  of 
a  perfect-blossom  variety,  two  rows  of  imperfect, 
then  another  row  of  perfect — and  so  on.  As  soon 
as  the  field  is  all  planted,  start  the  cultivator  and 
loosen  up  the  trodden  soil.  Hoe  and  cultivate  the 
plants  often  but  shallow.  Arrange  the  runners  by 
hand,  spacing  them  properly  and  securing  each  one 
in  place  with  a  little  soil  or  a  small  stone.  When 
enough  runners  have  rooted,  cut  off  the  surplus  ones 
the  same  as  if  they  were  weeds.  Aim  to  have  the 
final  row  not  more  than  eighteen  inches  wide,  with 
plants  spaced  (irregularly)  six  to  eight  inches  apart. 
Continue  to  hoe  and  cultivate  until  hard  frosts  come 
in  the  fall ;  then,  when  the  soil  is  well  frozen,  mulch 
the  rows  or  the  entire  field  with  clean  straw,  marsh 
hay,  etc.  In  late  March  or  early  April,  if  the  mulch 
on  the  strawberry  bed  is  heavy  and  packed  down, 
loosen  it  up  a  little  and  rake  part  of  it  into  the 
aisles  between  the  rows.  I  do  not  believe  that  it  is 
best,  usually,  to  cultivate  or  hoe  the  bed  in  the  spring ; 
simply  pull  up  weeds  that  push  through  the  mulch. 
If  you  want  to  keep  the  bed  another  year,  says  a 
writer  in  Farm  Journal,  after  fruiting  time  mow  off 
the  plant  leaves  and  tops,  let  them  dry,  rake  into 
aisles,  and  set  fire  to  dry  leaves  and  mulch  and  burn 
it  off.  Choose  a  dry,  windy  day  for  this  job,  so  that 
the  fire  will  run  quickly  along  the  aisles.  As  soon 
as  the  new  growth  starts,  narrow  down  the  rows 
by  plowing  one  furrow  away  from  each  side,  and 


SMALL   FRUITS  169 

then  cultivate  the  soil  back  into  place.  Then  treat 
the  bed  the  same  as  the  first  year.  When  it  has 
borne  two  crops,  better  plow  it  under. 

The  foregoing  well-known  method  is  what  is 
called  the  "narrow  matted  row"  system.  Of  course 
in  a  small  garden,  for  hoe  cultivation  only,  the  rows 
might  be  closer  together — say  three  feet  and  a  half 
apart. 

Sometimes  the  "wide  matted  row"  method  is 
used — allowing  the  plant  row  to  become  two  or 
three  feet  wide.  Then,  last  but  not  least,  there's  the 
"hill  system"  of  culture — setting  the  plants  about  fif- 
teen inches  apart  in  rows  about  three  feet  apart, 
for  horse  cultivation,  or  in  two-foot  rows  for  hoe 
work  only.  Blossoms  are  kept  off  and  all  runners 
are  promptly  and  regularly  cut  off  all  through  the 
growing  season,  and  the  plants,  not  being  exhausted 
by  runner,  blossom  or  fruit  bearing,  put  all  their 
strength  into  themselves  and  grow  big,  sturdy  and 
bushy.  Apply  a  mulch  when  the  ground  freezes, 
and  look  for  a  fine  crop  of  extra-fancy  berries  the 
following  June.  This  method  requires  high  culture 
and  fertilization  to  produce  satisfactory  results.  Oc- 
casional applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  the  first  sea- 
son, and  again  the  following  spring  after  growth 
starts,  are  helpful.  (Nitrate  of  soda  is  useful  in 
any  system  of  strawberry  growing.  See  Chapter 
IV.) 

Some  folks  advocate  setting  strawberries  in 
August  or  early  September.  I  prefer  spring-set  beds, 
but  if  you  must  set  in  the  fall,  use  pot-grown  plants 
and  begin  to  prepare  the  ground  a  few  weeks  ahead 
of  planting  time.  Plow  it  early  so  that  it  will  have 
a  chance  to  settle.  Harrow  or  rake  it  often,  to  keep 
down  weeds  and  conserve  moisture.  Then  the  bed 


SMALL   FRUITS  171 

will  be  in  fine  shape  to  receive  the  plants.  Pot- 
grown  plants  can  be  had  of  most  nurserymen;  or 
you  can  easily  raise  them  yourself  by  buying  a  num- 
ber of  tiny  pots,  filling  them  with  earth,  sinking  them 
alongside  a  new  strawberry  bed,  and  causing  a  run- 
ner to  take  root  in  each  pot. 

Strawberry  varieties :  There  are  hundreds  of 
them.  Every  locality  has  its  favorites.  New  kinds 
are  constantly  being  introduced,  and  most  old  kinds 
sooner  or  later  drop  out  of  sight.  I  have  only  space 
to  mention  a  few  well-tested  varieties  which  are 
general  favorites  in  many  places  at  the  time  of  this 
writing  ("P"  means  pistillate  or  imperfect  blossoms, 
"S"  means  staminate  or  perfect  blossoms)  :  Bubach 
(P),  Haverland  (P),  Chesapeake  (S),  Marshall  (S), 
Warfield  (P),  Wm.  Belt  (S),  Lovett  (S),  Nick 
Ohmer  (S),  Glen  Mary  (S),  New  York  (S),  Sena- 
tor Dunlap  (S),  Heritage  (S),  Rough  Rider  (S), 
etc.,  etc.  If  you  want  extra  early  berries,  regardless 
of  size,  plant  Michel's  Early  (S),  Tennessee  Pro- 
lific (S),  etc.  For  very  late  kinds,  plant  Gandy  (S), 
Parker  Earle  (S),  Brandywine  (S),  etc. 

Picking  and  marketing:  Do  not  pick  straw- 
berries when  they  are  wet ;  when  picked,  hurry  them 
to  a  cool  place  out 
of  the  sun;  do  not 
bruise;  pick  every 
ripe  berry  every  day 
or  two;  do  not  jerk 
the  berries  off — nip 
them  off  at  the  stem; 
throw  out  over-ripe 
or  under-ripe  speci- 

m^t-jc  T          T1J          FTo!^      DO  NOT  PICK   BERRIES  FOR  SHIPMENT 

mens.       J      tt.     -"ale       WHEN  THEY  ARE  WET  AND  BE 
says:          ror      distant  CAREFUL  NOT  TO  BRUISE 


1/2  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

market,  try  to  pick  in  the  evening,  or  in  the  morning 
after  the  dew  is  off  the  grass  and  yet  before  it  is  too 
warm.  If  picking  must  be  done  all  through  the  heat 
of  the  day,  plan  some  way  to  cool  the  berries.  Pick- 
ers of  mature  years  are  best ;  and  as  a  rule  girls  are 
better  than  boys.  Have  a  superintendent  for  every 
ten  or  twelve  pickers,  to  assign  the  rows,  inspect  the 
picking,  etc.  Each  picker  should  be  numbered  and 
have  a  picking  stand  or  carrier  with  like  number 
to  hold  four,  six  or  eight  quarts.  Sort  the  berries 
as  picked  into  two  grades,  and  always  use  new,  clean 
baskets  made  of  the  whitest  wood  possible.  Fill 
rounding  full  with  fruit  of  uniform  quality  all  the 
way  through.  After  berries  are  picked  keep  them 
from  the  air  as  much  as  possible.  Fruit,  if  dry 
cooled,  will  keep  much  longer  and  keep  fresher  if 
kept  in  tight  crates.  Ventilation  in  crates  and  bas- 
kets does  more  harm  than  good."  In  many  parts  of 
the  East  the  32-quart  crate  is  the  favorite  shipping 
package ;  in  Michigan  and  some  other  states,  the  16- 
quart  gift-crate  is  popular  (this  kind  is  shown  in  the 
packing-shed  illustration  in  this  chapter). 

Strawberry  pests :  Leaf-spot,  blight,  rust  and 
mildew  can  all  be  largely  controlled  by  early  spray- 
ings with  the  Bordeaux  mixture.  Rotation  of  crops 
and  the  annual  "burning  over"  of  each  bed  after  it 
has  fruited,  will  usually  control  the  crown-borer,  the 
leaf-roller,  and  similar  insects ;  also,  put  some  arsen- 
ate  of  lead  in  the  Bordeaux  mixture  and  use  the 
combined  spray  until  little  green  berries  begin  to 
form,  then  stop,  and  resume  spraying  after  the  fruit- 
ing season  is  over.  White  grubs  (larvae  of  May 
beetles  or  "June  bugs"  as  they  are  sometimes  called) 
often  attack  the  roots  below  ground  and  the  plant 
withers  and  dies;  there  are  no  good  remedies,  but 


SMALL   FRUITS 


173 


fall-plowing  and  regular  cultivation  are  preventives; 
never  plant  strawberries  on  ground  which  has  been 
in  sod  within  two  or  three  years  and  you'll  have  little 
trouble  with  white  grubs. 

RASPBERRIES  AND  BLACKBERRIES. — To  get  a  start, 
buy  plants  of  a  nurseryman;  or  propagate  from  an 
old  patch,  as  follows :  New  plants  of  the  red  rasp- 
berry and  blackberry  may  be  obtained  by  digging  the 
larger  vigorous  roots  and  cutting  in  pieces  two  or 
three  inches  in  length, 
according  to  their  size ; 
the  smaller  the  root 
the  longer  it  should  be 
cut.  Cut  the  roots  in 
the  fall  and  store  in 
boxes  of  sand  placed  in  a 
dry,  cool  cellar  until 
spring.  As  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  properly 
prepared,  scatter  the  root 
pieces  thinly  in  furrows 
and  cover  with  two 
inches  of  light,  loamy 
soil.  Choose  a  moist,  par- 
tially shaded  situation, 
keep  clean  and  free  from 
weeds,  and  by  fall  you 
will  have  a  good  supply  of  strong,  healthy  plants 
for  early  spring  setting  (for  the  North  I  favor 
spring  setting).  An  easier  way,  is  to  dig  suckers 
or  sprouts  that  come  up  along  or  between  the  rows, 
being  sure  to  secure  with  each  sprout  a  short  por- 
tion of  the  cross  root  from  which  it  grew;  dig 
and  set  these  in  permanent  rows  in  the  early  spring. 
(Much  of  this  digging,  however,  hurts  a  patch.) 


GET    BERRIES    OUT  OF  THE  SUN 
AND    INTO    THE    PACKING- 
SHED  QUICKLY 


174  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

Blackcap  raspberries  do  not  sucker  from  the 
roots  and  are  propagated  differently.  When  black- 
cap tips  bend  down  near  the  ground  toward  autumn, 
new  plants  can  be  easily  started.  Bend  down  and 
bury  each  tip  a  few  inches  beneath  the  ground,  hold- 
ing it  in  place  by  pegs,  a  stone,  or  the  weight  of  a 
little  heaped-up  soil.  Most  of  the  tips,  if  not  dis- 
turbed, will  take  root  and  form  nice  plants  by  next 
spring ;  at  which  time  the  parent  canes  can  be  severed 
a  few  inches  from  the  new  plants,  and  the  latter  can 
then  be  dug  up  and  set  out  wherever  desired. 

Planting-distances,  culture,  etc. :  Blackberries 
for  horse  cultivation  are  usually  set  about  eight  feet 
apart  in  rows,  plants  spaced  about  two  feet  (2,722 
to  the  a,cre).  Red  raspberry  rows,  about  six  feet 
apart,  plants  spaced  about  two  feet  (3,630  to  the 
acre).  The  plants,  of  both,  sucker  and  run  to- 
gether in  the  row  in  a  year  of  two,  until  there  is  a 
continuous  hedgerow  about  a  foot  wide  (plants 
which  come  up  outside  of  this  should  be  treated  like 
weeds).  For  small  garden  or  hoe  cultivation  the 
rows  might  be  a  little  closer  together.  Blackcaps 
fpr  horse  cultivation  may  be  set  in  six-foot  rows, 
about  two  and  one-half  feet  apart  between  plants; 
or  5x5,  and  cultivated  both  ways  if  the  rows  are 
straight  in  each  direction  (1,742  plants  to  the  acre). 
As  blackcaps  do  not  sucker,  the  hills  will  "stay  put." 

As  to  the  depth  to  set  plants  of  raspberries  and 
blackberries,  I  shall  simply  say:  Set  them  only  a 
trifle  deeper  than  they  were  before  digging. 

Soil  for  these  berries  should  be  moist,  well 
fertilized,  loamy,  well  drained  and  deeply  plowed. 
Cultivation  should  begin  in  early  spring  and  continue 
(say  at  ten-day  intervals)  until  about  the  middle  of 
August.  A  mulch  at  fruiting  time  is  helpful  and 


SMALL   FRUITS  175 

practicable  in  a  small  patch.  A  cover  crop  is  some- 
times sown  at  the  last  cultivation,  for  turning  un- 
der in  early  spring.  Do  not  plow  the  ground  (after 
it  is  planted)  deeper  than  three  inches;  cultivate 
about  two  inches  deep;  hand-hoe  between  plants 
where  the  cultivator  can  not  go.  Do  not  let  plants 
produce  fruit  the  first  season ;  a  small  crop  may  be 
expected  the  following  year;  a  full  crop  the  third 
year. 

Pruning:  The  first  year,  none.  After  that, 
cut  out  (close  to  the  ground)  all  old  canes  each 
summer  as  soon  as  they  have  fruited.  At  the  same 
time,  cut  out  surplus  canes  (when  the  rows  get  too 
thick)  and  diseased  or  feeble  canes.  Remove  and 
burn  the  cuttings,  promptly.  Don't  let  the  rows 
get  too  wide  or  too  thick,  but  be  sure  to  leave  enough 
new  shoots  for  next  year's  fruiting.  In  the  early 
spring  go  through  the  patch  again ;  cut  out  all 
broken  or  winter-killed  canes  or  branches,  shorten 
remaining  canes  to  four  or  five  feet,  and  cut  off  at 
least  a  third  or  half  of  each  long  side-shoot.  Rake 
up  and  burn  all  brush.  (NOTE:  There  is  another 
pruning  detail  which  is  practised  by  some  growers, 
called  "summer  pruning"  or  "pinching."  This  con- 
sists of  pinching  off  the  tip  ends  of  all  new  shoots 
when  they  are  not  more  than  two  feet  high — the  idea 
being  to  make  the  canes  stocky  and  more  self-sup- 
porting, with  low  side-branches.  This  method  has 
advantages  and  disadvantages ;  some  growers  greatly 
favor  it,  while  others  condemn  it  and  say  that  it  often 
causes  too  much  late,  tender  growth  that  winter- 
kills in  the  North.  It  seems  to  work  better  with 
blackcaps  and  blackberries,  than  with  red  raspber- 
ries.) If  the  canes  are  properly  pruned,  no  supports 
should  be  needed;  although  in  small  gardens  it  is 


176  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

quite  common  to  string  stout  wires  along  the  rows, 
either  using  double  wires  or  tying  the  canes  to  a  sin- 
gle wire.  Blackcaps  and  blackberries  are  usually 
picked  and  packed  in  quart  boxes  in  crates  the  same 
as  strawberries.  Red  raspberries  are  generally 
packed  in  pint  boxes.  Get  blackberries  out  of  the 
sun  double-quick,  or  they'll  turn  red  in  spots,  says 
Tim ;  and  he  speaks  from  experience. 

Varieties :  The  following  kinds  of  blackberries 
are  hardy,  or  nearly  so,  in  New  York  State,  says 
O.  M.  Taylor :  Agawam,  Ancient  Briton,  Eldorado, 
Snyder,  Ohmer,  Stone  Hardy,  Taylor,  Wachusett. 
The  not  hardy  kinds  are :  Kittatinny,  Lovett,  Merser- 
eau,  Minnewaski,  Wilson  Jr.,  Early  Harvest,  Early 
Mammoth.  (The  latter  varieties  may  endure  the 
winter  cold  some  years,  but  the  safest  way  is  to  bend 
down  the  canes  lengthwise  of  the  row  in  late  fall 
and  cover  with  earth,  in  the  extreme  North;  this 
bending  is  done  by  first  removing  some  soil  from  one 
side  of  the  roots.) 

Gregg,  Cumberland,  Kansas,  Ohio,  Conrath,  etc., 
are  popular  blackcaps.  Cuthbert,  Miller,  London, 
etc.,  are  good  red  raspberries.  Golden  Queen  is  a 
yellow-fruited  variety.  Shaffer  is  a  purple-cap  kind, 
but  not  popular  for  market. 

Insects  and  diseases :  Cane-borers,  gall-beetles, 
tree-crickets  and  similar  insects  that  infest  rasp- 
berry and  blackberry  canes,  are  difficult  to  combat 
with  sprays ;  however,  the  prompt  cutting  out  and 
burning  of  old,  dead  and  infested  canes  will  usually 
keep  these  enemies  in  check.  A  little  worm  (the 
larvae  of  a  black  saw-fly)  sometimes  feeds  upon  the 
leaves ;  hellebore  or  arsenate  of  lead  sprays  will  kill 
it.  Anthracnose  (purplish  or  scabby  patches  on  the 
canes)  is  a  fungous  trouble;  spray  with  the  Bor- 


SMALL   FRUITS  177 

deaux  mixture  and  promptly  destroy  canes  after 
fruiting.  Red  rust  (powdery,  orange-red  places  on 
leaves,  etc.)  is  a  very  common  trouble;  dig  out  in- 
fested plants — root  and  branch — whenever  seen,  and 
burn;  be  careful  not  to  scatter  the  dust  on  healthy 
bushes;  early  sprayings  with  Bordeaux  may  help  a 
little. 

CURRANTS  AND  GOOSEBERRIES. — Buy  plants.  Or, 
soon  after  the  leaves  fall  in  autumn,  currant,  goose- 
berry and  grape  cuttings  may  best  be  made.  Use 
this  season's  new  wood-growth;  cut  into  lengths 
about  eight  inches  long,  tie  into  bundles,  and  bury  in 
not  too  wet  sand  in  the  cellar,  for  spring  planting. 
Or  if  you  will  mulch  them  well  through  the  winter, 
they  may  be  set  at  once  in  the  fall.  Set  them  slightly 
leaning,  top  end  up,  about  five  inches  apart,  deeply, 
in  rows  (each  cutting  having  at  least  one  bud  above 
and  one  below  ground),  cultivate  them  as  you  would 
any  other  crop,  and  transplant  them  to  their  per- 
manent place  the  following  fall  or  spring.  The  soil 
should  be  well  firmed  around  the  cuttings. 

Most  growers  make  the  permanent  rows  5x5  feet 
and  cultivate  both  ways ;  but  in  a  small  garden  the 
bushes  might  be  spaced  about  four  feet  apart  in  five- 
foot  rows.  A  well-drained  clay  or  clay-loam  soil  is 
liked  best  by  these  bushes.  They  are  great  feeders  and 
manure  should  be  used  bountifully.  The  roots  run 
close  to  the  surface,  so  beware  of  cultivating  deeply ; 
but  regular,  light  stirrings  of  the  soil  until  August 
are  beneficial.  Some  growers  cultivate  the  ground 
once  or  twice  in  the  spring  and  then  mulch  the  sur- 
face during  the  balance  of  the  year ;  this  is  a  good 
hint  for  the  small  gardener.  In  some  localities  cur- 
rants and  gooseberries  are  packed  in  quart  boxes 
the  same  as  strawberries;  consult  your  local  market- 


178  BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 

man.  Gooseberries  are  usually  marketed  while  in  a 
green,  hard  condition. 

Pruning  and  pests :  These  fruits  are  usually 
grown  and  trained  in  bush  form,  and  shoots  from 
the  base  are  utilized  to  renew  the  top  gradually. 
Pruning  consists  of  cutting  out  weak  or  superfluous 
new  shoots,  and  old  ones  which  have  outlived  their 
usefulness  or  which  have  become  diseased  or  infested 
with  borers.  But  never  cut  out  too  many  old  stalks 
at  once,  for  the  bulk  of  the  fruit  is  produced  on  such 
wood.  Stalks  may  be  left  until  about  three  years 
old — which  is  often  the  limit  of  their  usefulness. 
All  shoots,  old  or  new,  may  be  cut  back,  as  desired, 
to  make  the  bushes  more  compact  and  symmetrical, 
and  the  fruit  larger.  In  other  words,  thin  out,  cut 
back,  and  gradually  replace  the  older  stalks  with 
younger  ones.  Burn  all  clippings  promptly,  for  thus 
the  borer  is  kept  down.  The  principal  other  enemy 
is  the  currant  worm  which  attacks  the  leaves  in  early 
spring.  Remedy :  Spray  the  bushes  with  the  helle- 
bore mixture  given  in  Chapter  V,  but  do  it  promptly 
when  the  first  worm  is  seen ;  watch  the  bushes 
closely  shortly  after  the  leaves  unfold  in  the  spring. 
Fungous  blight  troubles  can  be  controlled  with  Bor- 
deaux. Sulphur  for  mildew  is  often  used. 

Varieties :  Perfection,  Victoria,  Cherry,  Fay's 
Prolific,  are  popular  kinds  of  currants.  Red  Dutch 
is  the  small,  old-fashioned  kind ;  it  is  still  grown. 
White  Dutch  and  White  Grape  are  white  varieties. 
Black  Naples  is  esteemed  for  jellies.  Downing, 
Houghton,  Columbus,  etc.,  are  well-known  native 
gooseberries.  Industry  is  a  fine,  large  European 
variety,  very  sweet;  but  more  subject  to  mildew 
than  the  American  kinds. 

GRAPES. — Buy  one-year-old  vines ;   or  propagate 


SMALL  FRUITS  179 

them  from  cuttings  as  advised  for  currants  (page 
1/7).  Vineyard  rows  should  be  about  eight  feet 
apart,  plants  spaced  about  eight  feet  in  the  rows. 
Any  good,  well-drained  soil  will  do,  but — commer- 
cially speaking — grapes  do  their  best  only  in  certain 
localities  where  temperature,  climate,  etc.,  are  en- 
tirely favorable.  The  "Chautauqua  grape  belt"  in  New 
York  state  is  such  a  place.  There  are  others.  How- 
ever, a  few  grapes  for  home  use  can  be  grown 
almost  anywhere.  On  account  of  greater  security 
against  frost  dangers,  an  elevated  location  is  pref- 
erable to  a  low-lying  place.  In  very  cold  sections 
grapes  do  especially  well  on  the  sunny  side  of  a  wall, 
fence  or  building.  So  be  sure  to  have  at  least  a  few 
Concords,  Delawares,  Niagaras,  Brightens,  etc. 
After  planting,  cut  back  the  top  to  about  three  buds 
and  let  the  vine  grow  as  it  pleases  the  first  season. 
Then,  the  next  February,  cut  back  the  best  cane  to 
about  four  "eyes"  or  buds,  and  cut  off  any  other 
canes  entirely;  when  these  buds  commence  to  grow, 
rub  off  all  but  the  two  strongest  shoots,  and,  as  they 
grow,  tie  them  to  the  wire  of  a  trellis  or  to  a  stake. 
The  third  year's  pruning  will  depend  somewhat  upon 
what  system  of  training  you  decide  upon ;  the  sub- 
ject is  too  large  and  intricate  for  treatment  here. 
The  Kniffen  system  is  one  often  used;  it  consists  in 
training  the  vine  so  that  it  has  four  horizontal  side 
or  main  branches,  two  on  each  side,  one  above  an- 
other, tied  to  two  wires ;  the  first  wire  may  be  about 
three  feet  high,  the  second  about  five  feet.  I  sug- 
gest that  every  grape-grower  should  send  to  the 
U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C., 
ask  for  free  Farmers'  Bulletins  Nos.  284  and  471, 
and  learn  all  the  facts  about  other  systems. 

Extra-fine  grapes  are  obtained  by  cutting  off  the 


l8o  BIGGLE  GARDEN   BOOK 

inferior  bunches  and  removing  those  that  crowd 
others.  Cultivation,  too,  helps  to  make  fine  fruit. 
So  do  annual  applications  of  bone  meal,  stable  ma- 
nure, and  some  form  of  potash.  Another  aid  to 
high  quality,  is  "sacking"  or  "bagging"  the  bunches. 
The  best  time  to  do  this  is  when  the  berries  are 
quite  small — not  larger  than  small  shot.  Ordinary 
two-pound  paper  sacks  can  be  used.  The  mouth  of 
each  sack  should  be  snugly  wrapped  around  the  stem 
of  the  bunch,  and  securely  held  in  place  by  pinning 
or  tying.  The  tie  should  be  tight,  but,  of  course, 
not  too  tight.  The  sacks  protect  the  grapes  from 
fungous  and  insect  enemies,  including  wasps,  birds, 
etc.,  and  the  bunches  thus  protected  are  finer  and 
more  perfect.  For  grape-rot  and  mildew,  begin 
early  and  spray  the  vines  with  Bordeaux  mixture  at 
intervals  of  about  two  weeks.  The  addition  of 
arsenate  of  lead  to  the  earlier  sprayings  will  kill  any 
insects  which  eat  the  leaves  (see  Chapter  V). 

OTHER  FRUITS. — In  regard  to  the  dewberry,  etc., 
I  must  refer  you  to  my  Berry  Book.  There,  also, 
you  will  find  many  details  about  small-fruit  growing 
which  lack  of  space  excludes  from  this  chapter. 


INDEX 

A                          PAGE  PAGE 

Ammonia    ..............    52  Cardoon    ...............  147 

Angleworms    ............    62  Carrot    ........  a  ..;...  96,   97 

Anise   ..................  145  Catch   crops  ----  :.  ........   44 

Annual    flowers    .....  161-164  Caterpillars     ............  no 

Anthracnose    .......  140,   176  Catnip    .................  145 

Ants  ...................    62  Cauliflower  .............  116 

Arsenical    poisons  .....  56,   57  Celeriac      ..........  141,    142 

Artichoke    ..............  141  Celery     .............  105-110 

Ashes,    hardwood.  .43,   52,   65  Cellars    ..............  92,   93 

Asparagus    ............  65-70  Chard    .................  142 

•D  Chervil    ................  147 

0  Chickens   .........  62,  81.  90 

Bagging     grapes  .........  180  Chicory    ............  ....147 

galm    ..................  J45  Chives    .................  147 

^ean    ..............  I20>    "3  Citron    .................  13! 

eef  .......  !  ........  •  •  •    °3  Climbing  flowering  vines.  160 

Beet  ......  ;v:....  95,   9&,   100  Cloth   for   frames  ........    32 

Beetles.  (See  Asparagus,  etc  )  Clover   ...........  44,   45,   88 

Bellows  for  powder.  ..59,  60  Club-root   ..........  115,    116 

£?rTleS   .............  l67'17^  Coldframes.2o,  21,  23,  40,   128 

Birds           .........  .63,    180  Collards    ...............  in 

Bisulphide    of    carbon....    62  Compost    .........  26,   30,  47 

Blackberry  .........  173,    177  Copper,   sulphate   of..  .55,   56 

Blackcaps    ••;••••••  .....  174  Coriander   .....  .  .........  145 

Blanching       (See   Aspara-  Corn    .....  .........  119,    120 

gus    Celery    etc  )  Corn  salad.  ....  .........  I42 

Blight.    (See  Potato,  etc.)  Cover    crops  .............    44 

Blossoms,    never    spray  ...    62  Cress    .............  142,    143 

Blossoms,   pollination   of,  Crown-borer                             172 

63,    1  68  Crows    ......  '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.*.'.'    63 

Blossoms,    removing,  Cucumber    ..........  127-133 

132,   167,   169  Culls    ..................    77 

Bone    meal..  .........  43,  45  Cultivation.  .34,  35,  36,  47-54 

Bordeaux   mixture  .....  55,   56  Cultivators    ...49,   50,   51,   54 

Borecole    ...............  117  Currant    ...........  177,   178 

|orers   ...  .....  125,    132,    178  Cuttings   ...........  124,    177 

Broadcasting..  26,    43,   44,    47  Cutworms    ..............  115 


Bursting,  cabbage  ........  112  Djrt_ban(is  '.'.'.  V.  '.','.'.'.'.  3  V,  32 

C  Diseases.    (See  Onion,  etc.) 

Cabbage    ............  111-116  Distances     apart  .........    34 

Cane-borer    .............  176  Drag,    plank  .............    17 

Cantaloupe    .............  130  Drainage   ...............    1  1 

Caraway    ...............  145  Drills,    in   soil  ...........    37 

Carbolic-acid    emulsion...    58  Drills,    machine  .......  37,   53 

Carbon,  bisulphide  of....    62  Drought    ...............    48 


l82  BIGGLE  GARDEN   BOOK 

PAGE  PAGE 

Dugout     93,   101         Heave   out,   plants 49 

Dust   mulch 35        Hellebore    57 

E  Hen    manure 52,   53 

Earthworms   62        Hens    62,  81,  90 

Eggplant    139,   140        Herbs   144,   145 

Emulsion,   kerosene 58        Hiller,    celery 108 

Endive     143  Hilling    up.  .66,  90,    107,   108 

F  goes    49,   50,   51,   5-2,   53 

Fall-plowing    81,91         Hook    potato 125 

Fennel .145         Horehound     145 

Fertilization    ...43-47,   52,   53         Horseradish    73 

Fire     hotbeds...!..    .Ji     II        Hotbeds   19-23 

Fires,   smudge 140         gumus    43,   44,    45 

Firming  the   soil. .  .  26,   36,   39        -Hyssop    145 

Flats    26-31,34  ( 

Flea  beetle 115  Implements.  (See  Plows,  etc.) 

Float    17        Insecticides    55-59 

Flowers    149-166  Insects.     (See  Onion,  etc. ) 

Forcing.     (See  Hotbeds,  etc.)          Irrigation     51.5-2 

Fork,    digging 14  J 

Formalin    56,    1 1 6        J-une    bug 172 

Frost,   fighting 140  K 

Fruits,     small 167-180         Kainit 43,   90 

Fungicides    55,56,62        Kale     117 

Fungous     diseases.        (See  Kerosene     emulsion 58 

Bean,    Onion,    etc.)  Kohlrabi    117 

G  L 

Gall-beetle    176        Labels,   plant 41 

Garlic    147        Lady-bugs 63 

Germination.  .25,   26,  40,    106        Land   plaster 63 

Gherkin     129         Lavender    145 

Ginseng    143,    144        Leaf-roller    172 

Glass   for   frames 21  Leaf-rot.     (See  Lettuce,  etc.) 

Gooseberry    177,    178  Leaf-spot.     (See  Beet,  etc.) 

Grading.     (See  Tomato,  etc.)           Leek    145 

Grape    178-180        Legumes     45 

Green    fly 59         Lettuce     103-105 

Greenhouses    22,  23  Lice    remedies.  58,   59,   86,   87 

Green  manuring 45  Lime..... 46,   47,    52,    54,    55 

Greens     96,    in,    142  Lime-sulphur    mixture/.  ..  165 

Groundhogs    62         Line,    use   of 33,   34,   37 

Grub,    white 125,   172        Liquid   manure 45 

Guano    45  M 

Gumbo     146  Maggot.    ( See  Cabbage,  etc. ) 

Gypsum 63         Mangel-wurzel 100 

H  Manure 20,  23,  43,  44,  45 

Hardening  plants 29,    164  Marketing.      (See  Aspara- 

Hardy    vegetables 27,  40  gus,   Onion,   etc.) 

Harrows    17,67         Marking 33,   34,   37,   39 

Heading    104  Mats   for    frames.. 29,  32,  33 


INDEX  183 

PAGE  PAGE 

May    beetle 172  Pumpkin     132 

Mealy    bug 59  Pumps,     spray 59,   60,  6 1 

Melon     127-131  Pyrethrum     powder 59 

Mice,     field 63  R 

Mildew.     (See  Melon,  etc.)  Rabbits    62 

Moles     63  Radish     97,  98,  99 

Mulch,     dust 35,  4$  Rakes      39,  49 

Mulching     48,  49  Raspberry    I73~I77 

Muriate    of    potash 43  Red  rust   177 

Mushroom     145,    146  Red  spider    59 

Muskmelon     ...127,    128,    130  Rhubarb     7Q-73 

Mustard     146  Ridging      ....16,    17,  66,    124 

>J  Robins     63 

Nipping   growth,  Roguing    41 

123     1^7     132     137     175  Roller     17 

Nitrate    of    soda.  .  .' .  .  .45,   46  goot   Borers    125,    132 

Nitrogen    ...45,   53,    121,    124  5°ot    Cro.Ps 95'ioo 

Q  Root-cuttings      173 

QI  ra                                           I46  Root  maggots.     (See  Mag- 
Onion     .. 75-8i  RcTse-bugs    57,   1 60 

Oyster-shell    scale 165  Rosemary      ,  . .  145 

P  Roses 158-160 

Packages,    shipping.     (See  Rot.  (See  Onion,  Potato,  etc.) 

Asparagus,    Beans,   etc.)  Rotation    of    crops 38 

Packing.     (See  Tomato,  etc.)  Rows,    straight 33,   37 

Paris    green 56,   57  Rue    145 

Parsley 146  Rust.     (See  Asparagus,  etc.) 

Parsnip      - 97  Rutabaga     100 

Peas 83-88  S 

Pennyroyal     145  Sacking     grapes 180 

Peppermint     145  Sage     145 

Peppers     140  Salsify     99 

Perennial     flowers 150  San    Jose    scale 165 

Phosphates     43  Sash     21 

Phosphoric    acid 53  Savory     145 

Pinching.      (See    Nipping.)  Saw-fly    176 

Pits,     outdoor.  .  .92,    101,    102  Scab     56,   88,    125 

Planters,     machine.  ... 36,    37  Scale    pests 165 

Planting    and    sowing.  .25-41  Scarecrows     63 

Plaster,   land 63  Scuffle     hoe 53 

Plowing     1 6  Scullions     80 

Popcorn     120  Scurfy     scale 165 

Potash     43,  45,   53  Sea-kale 117 

Potato     88-93  Seeder,     machine.  .37,  49,   50 

Potato,     sweet 123-126  Seed,  germination    of.  .25,  40 

Preparation   of  the   land. 9-17  Seed,  good    39,  41 

Profits    14,    15,   23  Seed  growing    41 

Pruning.         (See       Roses,  Seed  rotting    39,    123 

Shrubs,   Fruits,   Vines.)          '      Seed,  soaking 39 

Puddling     38  Seed,   saving  and  storing.    41 


184 


BIGGLE   GARDEN   BOOK 


PAGE  T  PAGE 

Seed  sowing    25-41  Tansy    145 

Seed  testing    25,   26  Tar,    for   seed   corn 63 

Seed,  vitality    of 25,  40  Tarragon     145 

Selling.     (See  Marketing.)  Temperature  of   hotbed, 
Sets.     (See  Onion,  etc.)  20,  23,     27,   135,   139 

Setting.    (See  Transplanting.)  Tender   vegetables. 27,  29,  40 

Shading    29,   35  Thermometer     20 

Shearing    plants 39,    168  Thinning    plants 51 

Shipping._    (See  Potato,  etc.)  Thrips    59,  81 

Shrubs,    flowering. .  .157,    158  Thyme 145 

Shutters    for    frames 32  Tile     drains 1 1 

Slope  of  land 10  Time  to  sow,  etc.    (See  Beans, 

Small    fruits 167-180  Flowers,   Fruits,   etc.) 

Smudge  fires 140  Toads    63 

Smut.  (See  Onion,  Corn,  etc.)  Tobacco    58,  81 

Snails    62  Tomato    135-139 

Soil,    condition    of. 44,  46,  47  Tools.      (See   Implements.) 

Soil    for    frames 26  Topping     78 

Soil   for  the   garden.  ..  10,    n  Transplanting     27-41 

Soil,    sour 46,   54  Transportation      9,    10 

Soot 8 1  Traps,    mole 63 

Sorrel 54,    147  Tree-cricket    1 76 

Sorter,    machine 92  Trenching     16,   65,    109 

Sorting.       (See    Grading.)  Trimming  plants  (see  also 
Sowing  and   planting.  .  .25-41  Shearing)      ..108,    167,    168 

Spade     14  Turnip    99,    100 

Spading 15?  V 

Sparrows,    English 63  Varieties    to     plant 38 

Spearmint 145  Ventilation. 23,  27,  29,  39,  §3 

Spinach   '47  Vines,     climbing 160 

Spraying    55-62  * 

Spreaders    14.   53 

Squash    127,   128,   132  Water   cress........  142,   143 

Stem-blight     140  Watering 26,  27,  28,  36 

Stem-rot    105  Watermelon     ..127,    128,    131 

Storing.      (See  Onion,  Potato,  Webworms... 120 

ej.c  )  Weeders,    hand 49 

Strawberry    167-173  ^eed?.     f>   j>J'   53 

Striped  bug 132,    133  W,feyllsM ;8Z'   88'   9S 

Subsoil  .    ii  Whale-oil   soap   solution..    58 

Subsoil,   'plowing'.'.'-'-  .  .'16,  65  Wheel    hoes 49,   50 

Sulphate   of   ammonia 45  White    grub 125,    i 

Sulphate    of    copper.  .  .55,   56  JR".."*; IOS 

Sulphate    of   potash 43  Windbreaks    .  . 10 

Sulphur    56,   125  Wind     protection.      i 

Superphosphates    43  Wireworms.  .  .90,  96,  99,   '  '9 

Sweet  basil 145  Worms.        (See     Earth- 

Sweet  corn    119,   120  worms,    Currant,    etc.) 

Sweet  marjoram   145  "  ormwood     145 

Sweet   peas 163  Y 

Sweet  potato     123-126  Yams     125 


JLJ.iJ.K3     JJWVXJLX     J.U 


STAMPED  BELOW 


AN     INITIAL    FINE    OF    25    CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  5O  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $I.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


JUN  12  1933 

261984 
6    1937 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


